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Ok, so if I go for a duraspark setup, would it just need to be a mid-late 70's small block? If the truck does have mech. advance then it's hidden pretty damn good. Please read more carefully.
i had the same problem 2 days ago with my 74 F250 2bbl carb....the fuel pump took a crap! It was doing as you discribed, it would run good then it would die 10 ft from the driveway! I got a fuel pressure tester at autozone for a few bucks and the fuel pressure wouldnt even read on the guage. Replaced the pump and the pressure is dead on 5 (where it should be for a 360). Might be 3 or 4 for a 302.
suggestion: it may be nothing more than clogged idle ports. You can check if it's a fuel problem by spraying some starter fluid in the carb when it runs rough. If it picks up idle then it's a carb problem. Also, you turned your idle screws out three? about 1 and a half is norm.
I've read all of the suggestions listed and all of your described symptoms, most notably, that you are able to move a distributor component, any component, front to rear and side to side. I would definately agree that you have reached the time for a new distributor. The mechanical advance is incorporated in the distibutor, spring loaded counter-weights create the advance during acceleration when vacuum falls off. vacuum advance then takes over. To test your mechanical advance, remove and plug the vacuum line to the distributor, use a timing light to read your engines timing marks snap the throttle and the timing mark should advance toward BTC. Done correctly, you will be able to determine that mechanical advance is working and the total mechanical advance achieved.
If the plate you have described wedging in place is the component I believe it is, mechanical advance may be functional, but, an advance plate moving around will likely alter dwell continually. Just speculation though, good luck to you...Wayne
Last edited by FmrFrdTech; Dec 30, 2004 at 12:55 AM.
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