steering/brake upgrade?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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steering/brake upgrade?
I have a 1966 f-100 that came with a 352 and warner t-85. I have replaced the 352 with a 390 and the T-85 with a C6. Now I want to do a 4-wheel power disc upgrade and convert to 15-1 power steering? I want to get as much as I can from a junk yard. What vehicles do I need to get parts from and what parts do I need? Please help. Thanks, Mike
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Hi Mike - welcome to the club!!
May I suggest you do a few searches on this site - you'll find lots of threads on this conversion topic. Here's one to start with: http://www.mongrelmotorsports.homest...f100discs.html
And another link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...conversion.php
The PS upgrade should be done with the donor truck ('73-'76 FE block ideally - you'll need the left/driver side motor mount) that you'll be using to get the disc brakes from. I hope to be doing the same upgrade soon. Do more searching for the rear brake to disc upgrade.
Should be enough to get you started,
dagger
May I suggest you do a few searches on this site - you'll find lots of threads on this conversion topic. Here's one to start with: http://www.mongrelmotorsports.homest...f100discs.html
And another link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...conversion.php
The PS upgrade should be done with the donor truck ('73-'76 FE block ideally - you'll need the left/driver side motor mount) that you'll be using to get the disc brakes from. I hope to be doing the same upgrade soon. Do more searching for the rear brake to disc upgrade.
Should be enough to get you started,
dagger
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Hi Mike and WELCOME to FTE 
Dave is right on, with his suggestion. The rear wheel disc is gonna be a different problem all together, and pretty costly. Those of us that want more on the rear have chosen the axle upgrade from a 68-72 (axle rides 5/8" out further) and the rear hub-housing from 68-86. The shoes were widened in 68 and used to 86 when the 9" rear was fasied out. The rear track was widened in 73, so those & newer axles can't be used.
John
Dave is right on, with his suggestion. The rear wheel disc is gonna be a different problem all together, and pretty costly. Those of us that want more on the rear have chosen the axle upgrade from a 68-72 (axle rides 5/8" out further) and the rear hub-housing from 68-86. The shoes were widened in 68 and used to 86 when the 9" rear was fasied out. The rear track was widened in 73, so those & newer axles can't be used.
John
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,836
Likes: 3
From: Elizabethtown, PA
As a sometimes road racer, I will add that the rear discs are pretty much overkill and unnecessary. Due to the light rear nature of pickups, the rear does even less braking duty than on a car. While new trucks have 4 wheel discs, they are engineered to be that way. Retrofitting the rear discs is expense, work, and once you get the bias right (adjustable proportioning valve) you'll wind up with no better braking than if you just stuck with drums.
Not saying it can't be done, just don't believe this is a project worth the trouble.
Not saying it can't be done, just don't believe this is a project worth the trouble.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Wellston USA
steering/brake upgrade?
I would like to offer another ez way to upgrade to PS and PB on a 66 or 65 thru 71. If you can find a 78 - 79 f 150 truck for a donor vehicle you not only can swap the whole front end and steering gear to change to PS and PB you can use the steering column/w tilt wheel. First make sure the axle and radius arms are all good and not bent. King pins-mine were tight so they were not replaced. Instal new axle bushings and replace the radius arm busings. Replace engine stand on drivers side with one out of a PS 73-76 truck that had a 360-390. This allows the 79 PS box to mount with no mods. Put 3 bolts back in and you are good to go. Replace rag joint and steering column bolts in with no shortening of column I replaced the steering parts w/new. By using the whole front end of the 79 any parts you need will be for a 79 instead of trying to mix and match 66 parts. One caveot I was able to mount the sway bar which is a big plus. I had a 68 rear end under the truck and It drives and stops so nice you are amazed at how much better the drive is.
OldTrapper
OldTrapper
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Junior User
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I have acces to a '79
It is about to go to the recycler and he said I can have whatever I need from it, except the motor/tranny. What is the steering ratio/type on the '79 and what all parts do I need to get from it? I hae had some people tell me the I-beam suspension is bad at high speeds and that I should upgrade to a Mustang II, Winstar, or possibly a drop tube axle with fiberglass springs. I was under the impression that the rear disc and brackets were a direct bolt on from the newer model?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 1
From: Eastern Shore, Md.
when I did mine I forgot to get one thing that hasn't been mentioned, the brake line bracket that attaches to the frame because they stick out from the frame a couple of inches while ours are pretty much flat to the frame. I changed everything from the donor truck to my 65' that way you don't have the issues with steering linkage / spindle thickness. I even used the springs, they were the same hgt. but heavier which I'm going from 6cyl. to a FE. Did the whole thing in a couple of hours. Just my o2.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Oldtrapper - I was planning on buying new polyurethane radius arm bushings, but the axle bushings?? Do you mean Axle Pivot bushings (as per LMC truck listing)?
Anybody NOT like the polyurethane bushings for this application?
Cheers,
dagger
Anybody NOT like the polyurethane bushings for this application?
Cheers,
dagger
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 2
From: Parkville, MO (KC)
Mike -- the twin Ibeam suspension is plenty good for the speeds that a "flying brick" 65-66 F100 is stable at. If you drive a 65-66 at speeds above 80 or so, the front end is going to start to lift some, regardless of whatever suspension you have. And at 100 plus, you are really taking your life into your own hands, as you are no longer driving the truck, but mostly just "guiding" down the road.
The major problem that spelled the demise of the the twin I suspension is that it is hard to allign properly with camber not being adjustable (unless you heat and bend the I). And, it has a long radius, which limits its responsiveness over very rough terrain (though it is FAR FAR better than its fixed axel predecessor). I have not heard any one ever make a good arguement for upgrading the suspension in a twin-I beam truck.
The major problem that spelled the demise of the the twin I suspension is that it is hard to allign properly with camber not being adjustable (unless you heat and bend the I). And, it has a long radius, which limits its responsiveness over very rough terrain (though it is FAR FAR better than its fixed axel predecessor). I have not heard any one ever make a good arguement for upgrading the suspension in a twin-I beam truck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Charlie, I know the little things that come up, and try my darndest to get across to guys to BUY YOUR DONOR and keep it until you have upgraded all of the parts that you need.
Mike, I have found that there are only two folk telling I-beam owners to go to Mustang or other donor vehicles, kids and chevy owners. Neither know what their talking about. IMHO
John
Mike, I have found that there are only two folk telling I-beam owners to go to Mustang or other donor vehicles, kids and chevy owners. Neither know what their talking about. IMHO
John
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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Speed.
My main concern is that I live on the highway and this is my daily driver. I drive 80+MPH every day and 130+MPH every now and then. Not sure on the top speed as the speedo stops at 125 and I push another 500 to 700 RPM past that. at that speed it feels like I am just floating. I won't take a turn at that speed, but I do turn at 70-80 on the highway and sometimes it rocks in the turn. The guys telling me to use a Mustang II front end are old drag racers.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,671
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From: Eastern Shore, Md.
John- I thought I did my homework but....at first I was just going to get a backseat for my 78' Ranger supercab (same color and perfect shape) but ended up getting everything for my p/s pb setup even the brake light switch....just forgot the brackets. but I got the whole thing for 125 bucks including the seat, so I'm still happy
Charlie
Charlie
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Junior User
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Here's my setup.
1966 F-100 long stepside
390 .060 over
forged TRW 10.5to1 pistons
cam with .584 lift
Erson rockers
Edelbrock RPM intake
Edelbrock 650 CFM carb
C8AE-H heads from 500GT (drilled for 8 bolt exhaust)
Hedmam headers
2.75" dual exhaust kicked out in front of back tires
Edelbrock water pump
Duraspark dizzy with HP cap
MSD 6AL
Optima red top
PMGR mini starter
18 inch electric fan
aluminum radiator
electric fuel from cell in bed
wide ratio C6
12"X12" tranny cooler
3.25 9"rear
on 275/60/15 tires all around
125MPH @ 5400 RPM
and I push it to 6000 RPM before backing out of it
390 .060 over
forged TRW 10.5to1 pistons
cam with .584 lift
Erson rockers
Edelbrock RPM intake
Edelbrock 650 CFM carb
C8AE-H heads from 500GT (drilled for 8 bolt exhaust)
Hedmam headers
2.75" dual exhaust kicked out in front of back tires
Edelbrock water pump
Duraspark dizzy with HP cap
MSD 6AL
Optima red top
PMGR mini starter
18 inch electric fan
aluminum radiator
electric fuel from cell in bed
wide ratio C6
12"X12" tranny cooler
3.25 9"rear
on 275/60/15 tires all around
125MPH @ 5400 RPM
and I push it to 6000 RPM before backing out of it
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte
I didn't say it couldn't be done, but the offer still stands! We need video of that!
What kind of times you running at the track? We run a little bit at the 1/8th mile strips around here. Bet that setup will get you in the low 9's or better at the 1/8th mile or low 12's at the 1/4 mile strips.
What kind of times you running at the track? We run a little bit at the 1/8th mile strips around here. Bet that setup will get you in the low 9's or better at the 1/8th mile or low 12's at the 1/4 mile strips.