I have a problem / delema! I am in the process of rebuilding my carb which has 270,000 atleast miles on it. While taking the carb off the truck every single vacum line I pulled on pulled the tube out of the carb. Then when putting it back togather I striped some threads in the main body.

Ok I plan on building this engine next summer. I am hoping to get alot of hp out of it. Although until then I would like to be driving the truck aroud so I can be getting other things fixed on the truck. Should I send the carb to Holley and let them repair it for 35 dollars then I finish rebuilding it. Or send the whole thing to them and let the repair it and rebuild it for 388 dollars or buy a new 770 cfm carb? I don't what to end up buying to carbs but I want to drive the truck? If I build the 460 up to a 530 or 557 would the 770 be enough carb. I am going with super cobra jet heads and full roller cam. Wanting to keep the rpms max 6500.
What should I do?

 

I'm not saying this is the way to go but, I got a factory remanufactured 750 cmf eddlebrock with 1 year warranty, along with a throttle adapter so you can use original cable etc., from Summit for just under 250.00. The factory holley was a 750 so that's what I replaced it with and I've had real good luck with mine for about two years now.

 

Your looking at around 950 CFM or larger with the stroked engine your talking about. Personally I would spend the $38 to have them fix the stripped threads and assemble it myself. Holley has a wonderful tech section on their website that you use to rebuild the carb. Save the money for your next carb setup.

 

Not to say that you can't get a larger eddlebrock either. I was just giving the man an option, something to think about.

 

Thanks. Last night I finished the carb and epoxed all the tubes. I'm still trying to decide what to do about eh striped threads. It's the threads that hold the squirter in place. I was told I could heli-coil it then use a hollow screw that is used on the bigger carbs. Although due to the choke tower it makes it hard to get a tap in. Will all of the 4160 main bodies enterchange?

I still can't decide!

 

I run a 514 with a roller from crane. Biggest one in the catalog. I run the scj heads with a 5speed. My carb is the 750 mighty demon. Use the Stealth intake that is dual plane. Run this config in an 88' mustang. Gives it streetability. Still a very healthy lope with great throttle response.


On a dyno this motor is 400hp and 500ft. That is at the rear wheels btw. It is a torque monster and would be great in a truck. In a heavy truck the torque is more important than the horsepower anyway. However I don't know your style and what you like but this is on the edge of streetability. If a cop pulls up next to me I'm sweating bullets cause I'm shaking the ground

BTW, you may wanna post this in the fuel section see if anyone more familiar with carbs can help ya on the squirters.

 

Could you use a Proform body ?

 

spaz, That is exactly what I want! I have a feeling I am going to have to go atleast 60 over to clean it up. Probably just go on out to 80! That is if the block will take it.

 

On that size engine with what you have done in that light of a car there is no way I would be running a dual plane a Torker style intake would give you more tork and HP.

 

I have ran out of stuff to do to the carb!

 

What will happen if I just plugged the hole and put the carb on?

 

Spaz, nice setup. Would you like to know how to get another 15 lb ft torque and 75 HP out of your setup with just two bolt-on changes?

Brad

 

I'm always interested in more power


I detuned this motor from the one in the Ford Catalog cause didn't wanna be pulling valve covers to adjust that solid roller. Was told from Ford I'd be adjusting it constantly and in the Mustang it'd be a nightmore. I used the duel plane for throttle response on the street. I still run 3.08 rear gears in it It's mated to a tremec TKO 5 speed. Max rpm is around 6grand i think.



As for the squirters I'd think it would kill your take off as the squirters give a shot of gas as you hit the throttle. If ya blocked one i'd think you'd lose your take off as ya hit the gas. Maybe a flat spot as you lean into the throttle. I'm not much of a carb person so hope someone with good carb knowledge can help ya more in em.

 

I plan on going solid roller. I know I will have to adjust the valves alot but I think it is worth it. Plus being in a truck it shouldn't be that hard to get to. Who knows between now and then I might decide different. But right now it's going to be a full blown race engine besides running on pump gas.

 

Hi, move--

Have you ever even adjusted valves on a solid-lifter car? It is one of the most tedious tasks there is regarding maintenance on any vehicle.

First you have to remove both valve covers--and depending on whether the specifications are for "hot" or "cold" clearances, you need to do it while the engine has been sitting long enough for the engine temperature to reach "room temperature", OR you have to warm the engine up to operating temperature, shut it off, work with all the hot parts, and let me assure you--you WILL burn your hands! Not to mention all the mess you will have from the hot oil going everywhere.

As far as it being "easy to get to" in a truck--It doesn't make all that much difference HOW easy it is to "get to" them, what matters is that you will have to adjust them probably at least once every couple of weeks, and you will have to deal with the issues I've mentioned in the previous paragraph.

Also, why in the world would you want a "full blown race engine" in a street vehicle? Don't you realize that "full blown race" engines have very narrow power bands, and due to the speeds you're restricted to on the street, you will very seldom even rev the engine into the range where it can make power equal to or more than a stock engine?

I strongly suggest that if you really want a good performing engine on the street, you re-think what you're planning to install on this engine, starting with that solid roller camshaft.