Aftermarket Heads
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 682
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From: South Eastern MN
Aftermarket Heads
I did a search, and I was surprised how few posts it came up with. I am in the prosess of finding a F150 highboy, with or without a 460, I will be swaping one in. It would be a mildly hot build, for mud'n and street about 575 lb-ft of torque @3250 and hopefully 460 horses @ around 5000. I have been looking and trying to find info and opinions on aftermarket heads for these beasts, but I've had poor luck. It would be of much asistance if anyone with experience could pitch in some ideas for some heads.
Paul
By the way, Ive got the parts picked out to be a real early and flat torque producer.
Paul
By the way, Ive got the parts picked out to be a real early and flat torque producer.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 313
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From: Orlando
Edelbrock and TFS have nice heads for the 460
I prefer the TFS heads (street version not "A"). Go to summit web site or web sutes of head manufacturers fo rmore details. Ford also has a John Kasse head for the 460 but it requires some custom pieces to use it. I have the TFS's on my motor.
mike
mike
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 682
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From: Peoria, IL (more or less)
As Mike mentioned, either the TFS "Street" heads or the Edelbrock heads would work and are both good choices. For what you want to do, it may be more cost effective to use a set of C8, C9, D0VE, or D3VE Ford heads, ported & modified suitably. Depends on your combination, what if any shortblock mods you do, and your budget. The TFS & E-brock heads are definitely lighter though...along with the lightened wallet!
FTE *******
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 791
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Agree with Homespun, for 450 HP range factory heads are fine, mild porting if any can get you there. You can get to 600+ with the C8-D0VE/D3VE heads if ported by a specialist, and 800 with the infamous D00E-R (SCJ) heads.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Originally Posted by fordtrkpuller
Agree with Homespun, for 450 HP range factory heads are fine, mild porting if any can get you there. You can get to 600+ with the C8-D0VE/D3VE heads if ported by a specialist, and 800 with the infamous D00E-R (SCJ) heads.
I agree....If your only going for 450 to 500 hp..I would just use a set of stock heads And have them Lightly ported on the intake and what ever your wallet will handle for exhaust side.. a Nice Mild Hydraulic cam and about 9 to 9.5 to1 and you'll be in the 450 range easy!!
I have a friend that does port work on the Iron heads, And he can get 700hp capability out of D3's
Russ
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Joined: Dec 2004
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i am in the same boat. i have a solid engine that has srp piston that make around 10 to 1 with d3 heads (95cc) my only opion is to get edlebrocks or port the d3, i have heard of a few good porter but shipping there and back plus the work, plus the fact that they are still heavy and now maxed out makes me think the extra money for the edlbrocks is worth the cost.
can anyone tell me the estimated cost for porting d3 , plus new the valve work. how much of a savings are we talking total (shipping and everthing else)
can anyone tell me the estimated cost for porting d3 , plus new the valve work. how much of a savings are we talking total (shipping and everthing else)
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Pryor
I can tell you that if your heads need work, as in you are going to take a set of D0VE's or D3's or whatever, and make them really flow, you will spend almost as much as you will on a set of new alumnium heads. Think about it. Your heads pressure checked, P&P'd, cut out for larger valves, hardened seats put in, new bronze guides, millled, pedestals cut down for guide plates, new stainless valves, new spring, locks, retainers. That will add up quick!!!! The ONLY reason I went with D3's is because a guy I know (a BBF racer) gave them to me, already cut out for big valves and already machined down to accept guide plates. He also gave me some new valve springs and titanium retainers. All I had to do was have them freshened.
My take on the new aluminum heads is that the SCJ's from Ford are the best, with E-bocks coming in second. The only thing the SCJ's need is different length pushrods for intake and exhaust. Also if you are going pretty high lift your pistons may need fly cut in a slightly different place due to different valve angles of the SCJ's compared to stock (think Twisted Wedge by Trick Flow for the SBF).
My take on the new aluminum heads is that the SCJ's from Ford are the best, with E-bocks coming in second. The only thing the SCJ's need is different length pushrods for intake and exhaust. Also if you are going pretty high lift your pistons may need fly cut in a slightly different place due to different valve angles of the SCJ's compared to stock (think Twisted Wedge by Trick Flow for the SBF).
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Chesterfield, VA
As others have stated, the factory heads will do the trick. It's expensive to do all the work to them, but there are MANY sets out there that already have been rebuilt. I picked up a set of ported DOVE's, with 2.25/1.76 Manley Severe Duty valves, Isky solid roller springs, Manley guideplates, Isky locks/retainers...blah blah, $500 plus shipping.
They needed a valve job on the exhaust, but had new guides in them and had been milled...I have about $900 in them after having them flowed, new valve job, then reflowed after mild porting and valve work. They will run with a set of stock Edelbrocks or TFS street heads, for about half the price...and the valve hardware is quite a bit higher quality then off the shelf units.
I see very similar deals to this all over the Web.
They needed a valve job on the exhaust, but had new guides in them and had been milled...I have about $900 in them after having them flowed, new valve job, then reflowed after mild porting and valve work. They will run with a set of stock Edelbrocks or TFS street heads, for about half the price...and the valve hardware is quite a bit higher quality then off the shelf units.
I see very similar deals to this all over the Web.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: new brunswick
another option is to rebuild the bottom end with original style pistons(dished)and the cam of your choice(high lift),proper early timing chain set.normally with the the block bored 40thousands and decked 10 thou you would be lucky to see 8.5:1 compression (not really enough)but heres the twist instead of using the 95cc heads from the mid 70's and later look around for an early 68 thru 71 429/460 with the high compression heads(they were 11:1 comp,to much for todays gas)but with your dished 40 over pistons they will be perfect! take those heads have the exhaust ports ground out to flow better(do it yourself wit a die grinder)install larger valves new guides and seals, have head planed and there you go,new centerhead ,750 carb ,headers and dual exhaust .now you have a low cost 9.5:1 or better compression motor that will run on pump gas and make close to 425hp or better depending on the cam and other variables