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I also have and like my Beam type torque wrench but as stated previously they are harder to read at higher torques and you have to hold the handle the exact same way every time or readings will vary. Like all things just takes a technique to get right and consistent results.
PSD 60L brings up a good but seldom known point. Ya gotta set clickers back to a low setting as soon as you are done using them. They contain some kind of springs that will stretch or take a set if the tension is left on them. We were told to back them off to at least 1/3 of the max setting or less. I just run mine back to about one twist from the lowest setting. So far my clickers match my beam so I guess the calibration is holding.
Finally bought a bunch of tools today (craftsman) I needed a torque wrench for my next project, but can not really spend a ton of money right now. Would the craftman (about $70) even be worth purchasing? I won't be using it very much - I just work on the truck as a hobby in my free time.
if the $70 one is gonna be throwing money away - I'll wait until i can afford a nicer one. given my limited use though - wondering if i could get away with that.??
i'm happy with my craftsman wrench. for the occasional user (which is me) i've had no problems with it. why spend several hundred dollars on a tool when you can get the same results with the craftsman brand.....
Well My beam wrench is a Craftsman so if it gets out of sorts Ill be getting another. I keep it in a case and it stays there unless in use and it seems to hold up well. I also put all my digital meters and testers in individual cases it seems to help prolong their life as well as helps me keep track of them around my 16 year old son!!!
I am a F-16 mechanic in the Air Force. The only torque wrenches we use are Snap-ons. They are all sent out to be calibrated every 90 days, but they do eventually wear out to the point they can't be accurately calibrated. If they are dropped from ANY height out of the case, they have to be recalibrated before use, and if they are dropped more than 1 foot in the case they get recalibrated. We are also required to set all torque wrenches to their lowest setting before putting it back in the case. Another thing is that we are required to cycle the wrench 3 times prior to using it to make sure that the wrench is working/lubricated itself internally. This is done by setting the wrench and "torquing" a socket that has been welded to a plate on the wall, but is only required prior to the first use of the day. Also be sure that the threads of whatever you are torquing are lubricated with anti seize compound, or light oil to get an accurate torque reading.
Like everything else in the military, we have a whole book on the proper use and care of torque wrenches.
For automotive work, be careful lubing the threads. Some torque specs are for clean dry threads. A good book will specify either way. For critical things like rod bolts I like measuring the amount the bolt has stretched and equating that to a torque rating. For a high performance setup it's the best way.
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