What to do for more torque?
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What to do for more torque?
Well, im slowly accpeting that the 300 will never be a race motor. But to give it a little more respect, i think im going to up the torque, ALOT, how would i go about this? Ive got catback exhaust now, if i have no emmissions, can i just gut the cats and be done with that part, and add some headers, and a high torque cam and be near 300 ft lbs? Im looking for 350 to 400, give me some help guys, i have no idea on my axle. Im 4x4 running on 30.5s by 10.5 (came with truck) If i upgrade my gears, what will i need to do to keep a decently low highway RPM?
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It's a 93 F-150 w/ M5OD (culled from another post). The torque figures you want can be achieved with the proper cam, port job, larger injectors, ECM reprogram, probably go with SBC valves, maybe an overbore; headers will work nicely but what you have is almost as good. Your driveline might hold up to that abuse for a month though. The m5od won't handle it for long, and if your GVWR is around 6800 like mine your axles won't either.
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
You can get over 300 ft-lbs with just headers and exhaust. My truck put 272 ft-lbs to the wheels, which is about 315 at the flywheel. That's a stock 260k mile longblock, Hedman headers, 3" single exhaust, no cats, 19lb injectots and adjustable regulator. The injectors and regulator really don't do anything but improve throttle response and speed up adaptive memory after the battery is unhooked.
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haha scaring me talking about headwork cam and stuff lol... So silver, if i did all that he suggested, what do you think i would be pushing, and what should i do with the tranny, if i need to upgrade it, i wanna stay with a manual, do i have any options.
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Your post says that eventually you want to see 350-400ft lbs, and that will require headwork and possibly reprogrammingthe ecm if you want to see that at the wheels. Doing what Silverstreak has done and lowering your gearing will make it feel a lot closer to what you want. Good luck with it.
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The real question for your truck should be is it your daily driver? Because if it is the MPG will suffer with a profo cam. More power = more gas cut and dry.
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would i be better off just waiting 9 months and bolting a supercharger on there, 1 that boosts almost instantly, and mounting it is no prob, its just will i get about the same effect on stock components?
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
Originally Posted by Twilight Child
... So silver, if i did all that he suggested, what do you think i would be pushing, and what should i do with the tranny, if i need to upgrade it, i wanna stay with a manual, do i have any options.
For the trans, I'm wondering the same thing. My m5od has never given me any trouble, but I wonder when it will say enough is enough and spit pieces out. What I would like to do is put in a T56 with 4.10 gears. That would make 1st gear like a granny low, 5th would be a little lower than what I have now, and 6th would be quite a bit taller than what I have now.
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wait, a 6 sp that fits my truck, omg im in love... i hope thats what your saying, because i would love to have a 6 sp. That cam description, is that on a near stock motor, that would be ausome. Thats all i really want is enough to cut my 8th mile from 11.4 to under 10. If i could get 9.4 or 9.5, omg i would be happy, i could hang with alot of people out that. If so, what cam is that?
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
I don't know if there is a bolt in T56, but the f-body T56 uses a hydraulic slave cylnder that is almost, if not comletely, identical to the f series cylinder and might plug right in. A bellhousing that fits, shifter location, and trans length are probably the biggest obstacles. Richmond makes a 6 speed for most applications, but it has very tight gear splits and the OD is only .76.
For a cam I would do a Comp 260 or 268. A 260 will be a little stronger on the bottom, the 268 a little stronger on top. Actually, I would probably do the 260 with 1.73 rockers. That should make usable power up to about 4200-4400 rpm, but the peak will be lower than that. If you really want to have a good combination, get a custom roller done. You would probably end up with seat duration around 255-260, 0.050 duration about 220, and about .480 lift.
For a cam I would do a Comp 260 or 268. A 260 will be a little stronger on the bottom, the 268 a little stronger on top. Actually, I would probably do the 260 with 1.73 rockers. That should make usable power up to about 4200-4400 rpm, but the peak will be lower than that. If you really want to have a good combination, get a custom roller done. You would probably end up with seat duration around 255-260, 0.050 duration about 220, and about .480 lift.
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twilight child
You could opt for the ford ZF tranny, its not a 6 speed but it has the lower first gear and its swaps right in, its rated to handle a lot more tq than the mazda.
I wonder how strong the mazda is as well, everyone states how crappy the mazda tranny is but when you read the tranny section, it seems more people are complaining about problems with the c6, which is known as being bullet proof...who knows?
You could opt for the ford ZF tranny, its not a 6 speed but it has the lower first gear and its swaps right in, its rated to handle a lot more tq than the mazda.
I wonder how strong the mazda is as well, everyone states how crappy the mazda tranny is but when you read the tranny section, it seems more people are complaining about problems with the c6, which is known as being bullet proof...who knows?
Last edited by jwtaylor; Nov 23, 2004 at 08:02 AM.
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Well, you have to look at the number of C6's around vs. the number of M5OD's around. The mazda was used from '88 up, the C6 has been around a lot longer, and there's always more autos than manuals. For a long time, the C6 was the only heavy duty auto ford made available.
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ive heard somewhere that the m5od mazda eats like 30 to 50 HP from your motor? I have heard that other trannys dont rob so much power, if this is correct, would i actually get a gain from installing a zf? other than the ability to handle more power?