Thanks Steve seems easy enough, is the rear bearing easy to remove?

 

Bearing is no problem. The biggest pain is getting the rear seal in correct. I can still remember lying on my back in February and going thru that operation with a 54 Merc. It took me 3 tries to get it sealed, the final two tries was with it all together and pushing the seal in place. But that was around 63 and they got a better seal these days

 

I didn't realize i upset anyone, actually my intent is to help people out if i can. I have several flywheels laying around and the ring gear is tack welded on them and the the plate is balanced in several places. I just can't imagine a ring gear ruining the machine bolts that bolt a flywheel to the back of a crankshaft. But my offer still stands, whatever has happened, i can guide you through changing out a crankshaft. We all need help from time to time, like many many things i know, but it was only last week i discovered in my 89 towncar, that even though the alternator worked and the battery was good the car if it wasn't used for like 3 days would be dead dead dead, a nice guy at Auto Zone hooked up a computer to it while i was out, and it said charging fine but :Bad Diode:, because of his help i was able to buy a rebuilt 100 amp alternator for only 57 dollars. Anyway, let's help each other out, no one is perfect, what one of us doesn't know the other might (putting more heads together), i hope y'alls thanksgiving turned out better than mine, i got my hand burned kind of bad cooking hot gravy, then got a major bad flu virus...Janet

 

I really were it me, take your tranny and engine out as a unit, it will be much much easier this way, but then i already suggested that, it's up to you. Good luck.....Janet

 

Janet,
Those are driveplates not flywheels. They weight maybe 6-8lbs and the ring gear is
welded to them. A flywheel (Standard transmission car,truck) weights 35 lbs and the
starter ring gear is heated and dropped onto the casting(shrink fit). I changed a few in my time. Yes the weight of the heavy flywheel rocking on the crank bolts will mess up a lot of things includeing the bolt holes. It can be a real disaster if the engine is run at high RPM and it comes off,(Bell housing shields on dragsters).

 

Right, presently i have two old flywheels in my garage, one is for a 66 289 V8 and the other is for a 302 engine made around 1985, both of those have welded on ring gears and small square balances, guess what??? They are Flywheels!!!!...I could go into detail on my many many many engine rebuilds, but i'm through with this issue., but it's because i assume the person that started this topic is running a manual tranny that is why i suggested he best remove the engine and transmission as a unit....Janet

 

toolebox, it sounds like you are a bit of a novice (like we all were once) if you are unable to repair crank with inserts it would be best to remove the engine. Draining fluids of course, turn it upside down on the engine stand or a couple of ties. Remove oil pan, front pulley and timing cover, remove spark plugs so that you can push the pistons down (up) easier. get 16 short lengths of rubber tubing to go over the rod bolts this will keep the bolts from damaging the crank. Remove the rod caps, keep them in order or number,and direction of notch, same with mains, You might have to push pistons deeper into engine for clearance. Remove crank install new...don't forget rear main seal and bearing replacement at this time. Good luck, George PS yes I have seen ring gears welded to fly wheels to keep the ring gear from spinning, and have done a few myself.

 

Hi GLR, you're right on the money on everything you have told toolebox, from his discriptions i too say the best method is pull the engine, i told him this originaly my self. Were it me, i would just unbolt the exhaust manifolds and pull the transmission with it, then detach the transmision, and remove the clutch (if it's a manual), and then put on a heavy duty engine stand and take the pan off as you said, and of course the front pulley and timing chain cover, but when you said novice, i really think toolebox should not attempt this job, a job like this should be done only by someone that knows exactly what they are doing, i could do it, but it took me 38 years of working on these to learn it. Much is involved, as checking for spun bearings, the placing of a rope seal in a Yblock one had better know what they're doing as well. Then if the crank needs turning, the decision if it can be turned within 40 undersize at least, but myself i would not want a crank to be anymore than 0.20 under, then there's always the possibility the crank saddles could be damaged if any spun bearings exist, this is why i say it is by no means for anyone of novice mechanical level, i would and have on my Yblocks even had my crank saddles line reamed for straightness when i rebuilt my 1963 292 and my 1960 292, both times i got lucky and only had to polish the cranks with emery clth and put the standard bearings back in and used plastigauge and my thrust turned out on the money, my two Yblocks i was one lucky lucky person!!! If it's too bad after he takes it out, he might be better off to just put him a nice little 302 and C4 automatic from the local salvage yard, it depends what he finds once he removes that crankshaft, one never knows. I have one 223 6 cylinder at our shop right now that came out of a nice 62 ford pickup, i agreed to rebuild it for a girl that loved the old truck and this was way back in 1978 or so. It was dripping oil out the back of the pan out of the dust cover and smoked just a little bit, but drove and purred , i mean it ran really nice!! I couldn't believe it when we tore it down for her it had 3 spun crank bearings and one was burned 0.60 into the crankshaft, so bad it even destroyed the crank block saddle completely, as good as it ran i really thought i would have her a great engine for not much money that would last her, i showed her and her Father and they even had another mechanic come in they knew to get his opinion, and he even agreed no way, it's scrape regardless of how good it ran. So you can't tell sometimes, what we would up doing is her Father bought a long block 390 V8 FE engine and had us put that in the pickup, this pickup was well worth the investment too, it was very very nice, it was a lot of work but we got it out in about 3 weeks, they wanted us to take our time and not rush it. Well She has a perfect pickup, but if you had heard how good that 223 ran, most anyone wouldn't have thought that crank was ate up the way it was, it still sats in a corner till this day, who knows maybe one day i will find a short block 223 and use the head off of it and make a complete 223, those were very good engines.....Janet

 

Think ya'll getting fussy on the wording?

Flexplates are auto trans?
Flywheels are manual?
On his first post he did meantion the ringgear which is welded on flexplates and press-fit on flywheels. He never said for sure if it was a manual or auto so it was hard to say which.

And grounddown bolt holes just confused me bad.

Could this be heli-cored or would strength be an issue? Also you getting a new flywheel/flexplate cause that wouldn't be good if it's messed up cause it will walk and possibly break new bolts. Make sure to dab a little locktight on your new ones.

This job would be much easier outta the truck btw. But the pulling is a job all in itself.

 

Thank you...the idea for all of us in here should be to help each other, people fussing or being rude isn't going to help anyone. All one needs to do is go back to the start of this topic and read my first reply i gave the person in here, based on the information they gave me, i answered them in the only way i could, and what i told them is good information, pull out the drivetrain, then detach that tranny, then go from there.....Janet

 

Rude?? How about you go back and read your posts??

"No flywheel ring gear has bolts, nor could it cut crankshaft cap bolts...Sorry!!!...Janet"

As an answer to...

"the flywheel/ring gear bolts came loose and ground down the bolt holes on the grankshaft..."

That wasn't rude?? You basically told Tollbox1 that he didn't have
a clue what he was asking, while *YOU* were the one without...

Where did you post that?? After I explained how to do the inframe, Brilliant,
with that kind of help, he'll have it ready by 2006...

There are a lot of things I could say to you janet40, but I'd get tossed...

 

If it came out rude then i apologize, sometimes i mean to help, but a person can read something and think i mean it totally different, i honestly was sincere in meaning i would guide them through the job if they wished me to and it was up to them. I get on the internet a few times a day, and i would never want to be rude, if i was i am sorry. In the post you are refering to, i thought they meant the bearing cap bolts, it didn't occur to me they meant the rear crank bolts, the issue still seems a bit excessive, i mean how fast would a person be going to cause something that major and it doesn't seem right that all these bolts were loose at the same time, i thought it may have been a joke, because rear crank bolts are machine bolts are flat, i'm sorry but i can't see this happening, but then again i have seen some crazy things on engines i have run across that was a certain way, and i was like how on earth did they do this???, Let's say the ring gear came loose, but then how would it hurt the rear crank bolt holes if the bolts are in??? unless all of it was loose, but maybe so, but hey let's help each other, i may need help with something myself sometime, because new computer vehicles are kind of kicking my B@@ right now learning them, i hate them, because it's so much different than the 50's 60's and 70's vehicles. But anyway Canzus glad to meet you, i am a likeable person, i really will go out of my way to help a person if they want me to. I believe in a person always re evaluating themselves , and next time i'll stop and ask before i assume, maybe i made an assumption to fast,,,,Janet

 

After 50 years of earning a living in truck and auto repair maintenance I have come to realize nothing can't happen. I had someone tell me you can't break the crankshaft on
a Mack diesel but there it was, broke. Rest assured Murphy and his law are present in
the auto mechanics trade.

 

Yes, i know. Sounds like we may be on the same level or close, read what i know if you have time, i am not a novice mechanic. For some reason i have seen people do thiings on mechanical things that i had no clue how it happened. Speaking of big diesel engines, i have had my share of work on these also, the 350 Cummins, 425 Caterpillar, and 331 Caterpillar. I did dissassemble a locked 425 Caterpiller that had a crankshaft that did twist somewhat, and this is not that often on Big truck engines but does happen because of stress of this particualr Cat 425 engine was used for 900,000 miles to pull smooth bore insulated tankers, the surge is quite more than some people realize!!! Me and My husband owned a 75 freightliner in 1997, and contracted to pull water in quantities of 5000 gallons in a smooth bore tanker even though the tanker held 9200 gallons, and being it was only two thirds fulls, literally picked this truck up off the ground and sat the thing back down!!!!! My guess is this type of surge stress can i know twist cranks and i have seen them break as well, as far as Mack big trucks they make their own engine which is in my opinion very inferior to Cat or Cummins and especially Detroit, oh yes ive had my hands in this too!!! I hold a CDL with a tanker and Haz mat endorsement, we gave it up because we decided we wanted to work on classic cars again at our shop, now im retired i got arthritis kind of bad, but not real bad, i still have tools and can use them properly though to do any job i want if i want, i have replaced a few cylinders and liners in rig engines as well, but yes i can see under smooth bore operation an inferior mack diesel crank breaking Sir!!, as a matter of fact it's very common in the Houston ship channel where Houston fuel oil has many tankers, it happens all the time!! After we gave up our truck we did work for a few of the local trucking companies (Mobile Repair), until i finally said SH Earl let's get out of this nasty business for channelview, i also have my share in working on Shovelhead big Twin and Sportster Hogs (Harleys), i also own a porkchop crank 12 cyllinder aircraft engine as a conversation piece, i can proove these things too, most people have no clue the Shovelhead and Evolution twin have interconnected rods like the old aircraft design and use lower roller bearings and a crank pin, and sportster harleys have a built in tranny case with a 4 speed shifter box with 4 cams, while the 1200 CC big twin has a seperate tranny and only one cam!! Yup!!! Im not novice folks, oops i forgot the 1340 Evo, LOL, wake up Janet....Janet

 

What does that have to do with Y-BLOCKS?

BLAH! BLAH! BLAH!

My Y's are running great!

Kevin Bigwin