Gas Gauge
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Gas Gauge
In the last month or so of getting this truck on the road, I've noticed the gas gauge only shows between half and 3/4 full(at best) after I fill up the tank. It will run a long time(haven't pushed it) after it hits the empty mark. It tends to fall to the big E rather quickly after dropping below the 1/4 mark. Sometimes it shows up to a 1/4 after dropping to the E after a re-start. Any ideas?
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
The truck was dual tank. Previous owner had it on dual fuel, and removed the rear gas tank to instal under-mounted propane tanks. I still have to finish removing the system, as he dropped a valve and had the propane engine replaced, and never hooked the propane system up again. From what I understand, the pump inside the front tank went south, and now there is a frame mounted, external fuel pump on the truck. Come spring, I plan to replace the rear gas tank, as well as the front tank's fuel pump, so I guess I'll live with this for now, and replace the sending unit at the same time.
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Pretty much. I can check wiring, but without pulling the tank, it's not going to be easy to see the top side of it for problems. I'm working outside these days, and cold weather is upon us, as well as snow(any day soon). Easier to collect new mounting straps, fuel sending unit/fuel pump units, etc over the winter, and have everything I need when the time comes. It runs well, and I never let it go below a 1/4 tank for the time being. Runs very well, and I'd rather worry about the dragging starter(when hot, likely the starter as battery cables are new, so is the solenoid, and the battery checks out good under load test) as well as the power steering box leak. Those are my main concerns for now. Front brakes will be next up after that, as they're getting to that point of needing replacement. Things like a fuel gauge sending unit become secondary. If I'd bought this truck earlier in the year, this wouldn't be an issue, as more summer time would be at hand. I'm racing the clock for snow and super cold weather now.
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From: Coutts Canada
Originally Posted by RR4E
I'm racing the clock for snow and super cold weather now.
PS leaks are common, i would just go and give the hoses a good tighening, and for the starter pult it out and pull it apart (without pulling the bushes out) and clean it out as this can be the problem sometimes.
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by mustange70
I'm in the same boat, but i'm also racing the calender before i start school as i still have to the rear disc swap (and brake booster), near rear gears and shifter, and i'm leaving in a month.
PS leaks are common, i would just go and give the hoses a good tighening, and for the starter pult it out and pull it apart (without pulling the bushes out) and clean it out as this can be the problem sometimes.
PS leaks are common, i would just go and give the hoses a good tighening, and for the starter pult it out and pull it apart (without pulling the bushes out) and clean it out as this can be the problem sometimes.
The leak from the p/s is from the output shaft seal, and while it can be replaced...it's over 10 years old, the shaft is likely worn and replacement would only be a band-aide fix at best. I've got a re-man on the way. As for the starter, I'll replace it for the 45 bucks less core charge for trade in from a reputable local rebuilder...not worth the head-ache of pulling it and cleaning it at that price.
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Post Fiend
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From: Coutts Canada
45, man i'm getting screwed up here, but then again i need to use a mini starter from the 92 and newer trucks cause of the headers.
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by mustange70
45, man i'm getting screwed up here, but then again i need to use a mini starter from the 92 and newer trucks cause of the headers.
I'm slightly to the left of you, in MB. A good rebuilder can do this, but they use several known and tested good parts, and replace what has to be replaced to build one starter. CT sells good re-man starters(surprisingly) but theirs are totally rebuilt, no used parts other than the housing. As for headers being your problem, I doubt that, unless you're getting bad starters to begin with. Heat from headers is more of a Chevy issue, since their solenoids are mounted on the starter, where the Ford's mount theirs on the fire-wall. Heat kills solenoids faster than anything else. The start itself is fairly resilient to heat, providing the internals are in good working order. Slightly worn bushings on either end tend to show a problem with heat, but not an issue unless re-used ina rebuild, or well worn with age.
Post Fiend
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From: Coutts Canada
Not a heat issue, the headers were on the hot wire for the starter and would have resulted in a spark show and a lot of blown fuses. It cost me 85 bucks for a rebuild (same type you're getting) from the wreckers.
EDIT
The headers were meant for an 87 4x4 F-250 and thus the clearence issue.
EDIT
The headers were meant for an 87 4x4 F-250 and thus the clearence issue.
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I don't bother with wrecker starters...no point. There are wrecker parts to buy when you can't find anything else, but a starter is not one of them, as far as I'm concerned. If your header clearance is an issue with the hot wire, try threading on an appropriate sized nut, better yet a die from a tap and die set, and then grind off the end of the connection a bit, and then thread the die off to make a clean thread. Might also help to mark the area where it hits, and slightly dimple it with a ball pien hammer(not to much!) for extra clearance. Just a thought. I had to fit a header to a motorcycle this way once for a customer, because he refused to buy the right part. It lasted for a long while for him, and he sold the bike with said header after 5 hard yrs of riding(over 40,000k per year) Did the same deal to one of my own bikes because the price was right, and my own had well over 75,000 k on the same header with no issues. Ran and sounded great!
Post Fiend
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From: Coutts Canada
Yeah i would do that but i already have the mini starter (looks way better too) on and it hasn't given me problems (the place i got it from is a certified rebuilder of alt., starters, and other such things). It would of taken quite a bit to make the old tab work, and if i recall right one of the tubes was also rubbing pretty good on the starter body too. (on the end of the starter)
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