I ran the codes running and not running and received nothing.

If I get NO response, is the computer bad?

Problem with 86 BII, 4x4, 2.9v6, auto
Runs and starts great. fuel pressure drops to a low of 25psi, almost dies, then revs back up. I can drive the thing around the yard, down the road by barely touching the gas and letting up before it dies...Any type of throttle pressure makes the thing bog down and fall on her face.

This is a new vehicle I purchased less than two weeks ago, with most of the normal senders and sensors being replaced by the previous owner, but new doesn't always mean fixed.

Any more suggestions? I figured if the computer didn't shoot out ANYTHING during code testing, it might be bad. Also, my stepdad has an 88 BII and we tested his codes and his came right out, so I know we are doing it right when we tested mine.

Thanks in advance!

 

The computer might be bad, but you might also have a bad connection between the computer and the test connector. Get a wiring diagram and trace wires to make sure you have good connections.

Out of curiosity, are you using a code reader/scanner, or just a jumper wire and a voltmeter?

 

We used a test light, then double checked with the voltmeter. I bought one of those jumper tools (Code retriever tool) from a parts store for easier jumping. Couldn't resist, it was only $1.49.

If everything was running normal, would there be any codes that would be read? The codes I have say 0-0 is normal, but how would that show up on a test light/voltmeter/ohmeter?

Thanks!

 

Review:
No codes pulled from the computer- is it bad?

If vehicle runs normal, will you get codes from the EEC-iv?

New question
If the inertia switch is bad, is it either on or off? If it is bad, will it let the vehicle run but not run well?

Thanks all!

 

You should get codes no matter what - code 11 is "no problem found". You need to make absolutely sure you had the meter/light/code reader connected right, because the computer is expensive to replace. It may not be easy to get a jumper wire in the connectors well, or to get the meter/test light lead to make a good connection. Key off, set up the test leads, key on - right?

You have to figure out whether the computer works or not before you can do much else. Maybe a friend has a Ford with EEC-IV you can practice on? If the inertia switch is open, the car won't run at all.

If the computer was bad, it seems like the car wouldn't run at all since the injectors are controlled by the computer. If some sensors are bad, the computer has a "limp-in" mode that should run better than what you described.

The Throttle Position Sensor might be something to check. Take that analog meter and check the output of the sensor. Should be smooth and continuous from maybe 1/2 volt to over 4-1/2 volts as the throttle is moved from idle to wide open very slowly.

Have you checked timing? You have to pull the SPOUT jumper and check for 10 degrees, then replace spout and ensure timing advances...but you should also be doing this in conjunction with the computer key on engine running test.

Keep us posted...

 

If you main problem is the way it runs then I would look at the fuel pressure, its low in my opinion, when was the fuel filter last changed.

The inertia switch is on/off, no inbetween.

 

Just for fun, I pulled the EEC out and called a couple of parts stores.

The module I have has two different numbers, as well as a blue sticker stating it is official FORD remanufactured.

The numbers on the module are as follows on the small part where the harness connects:
E4LB-14A624-B6
E4LB-14A459-B

Inside where the harness connects, in the red, with the pins, is this number:
E4AB-14A297-AB

The reman. original equipment sticker has these numbers on it:
Number: 8-4258
DC Code: 0604IG

Scratched into the black coating on the module are these numbers:
4324-70-4258-c

Contacting a few parts stores, they came up with this number:
E6-PF-AA-BA-CA-FA OR E6-PF-AA-BA-CA-PA

The parts store people think I have a wrong computer..... as all their numbers have E6,NOT E4.

Fuel pump and filter are brand new, but I'll double check them again. Throttle position sensor is fine, as we checked it a couple of nights ago.

More thoughts? Anyone able to help with any of those numbers listed above?

Here is the VIN for the vehicle, in case that helps:
1FMCU14T7GUC52404

I haven't had the VIN decoded, so if anyone would like to help in that area, it would be appreciated as well.

Thanks guys for helping a non-mechanical person!

 

My step dad and I ran codes on his 88 BII without a problem. His ran a 22 the two or three times we did it, but not codes came from my vehicle. We tried the Key on Engine off as well as Key on Engine Running tests to no avail.

Again, thanks! I love this site and the help you all give!

 

My son's 1985 2.8L was not giving any codes. I thought the computer might be bad. I fiound that the EEC relay had lost it's ground to the coil in the relay. To pinpoint if you have a similar problem you need to locate your EEC relay (in my sons it was right next to the computer on passenger side footwelll, it has a black base with a white cover.) Set your multimeter to read voltage. Ground your negative lead to frame and with ignition on, take positive lead and check for 12 volts on the red with light green stripe wire. Than check for 12 volts on black with light green stripe wire. If you read 12 volts on the black with light green stripe wire, you have lost your ground to the coil and youir relay will not turn on your computer. If you don't have 12 volts on red with light green stripe wire, your computer will not turn on. When you turn the ignition to the on position you should be able to feel and hear this relay click into it's "on" position. To fix my son's, I simply cut the black/lt green wire (ignition off) and spliced a wire to the frame of the vehicle with a ring terminal crimp. Remember that your ground is just as critical as your hot wire, so if you find that this is the source of your problem, make sure it is a sturdy connection.

After fixing my sons, it started spitting out codes and the truck started to run much better. Good luck, and I hope you find the problem

 

Simple fix- Replaced the low pressure pump in the gas tank. Runs like a brand new vehicle. Now I can live with some heat instead of freezing to death in my 66 F100 this winter!

Thanks all!