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C6 2nd gear slipping

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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 10:51 PM
  #16  
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Carl, thanks for all the great info. I'll let you know what I find.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 05:25 PM
  #17  
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Is it safe to run without the kickdown rod and do all up and down shifting manually?
Ive been doing this for about 5K in a 351W/C6 10000GVW E350 box truck since I was tired of the constant up/down shifting on the hills. Fluid in tranny and converter was changed just prior to this and it looks & smells like new.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 05:01 PM
  #18  
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From: "Islander"
forced down shifts

286merc, did you adjust your kickdown linkage so that a forced downshift only happens the last 3/8" of throttle pedal travel? With a heavy governor on the C-6 around town i stay in high around corners, 15-18 mph and accelerate up to 3/4 throttle. This is less wear and tear on the trans. Any speed above 35 mph the only way to down shift is to force it (kickdown) or manual shift it.
This is on 68 CS with 3.54 rear, low stall converter and 33x 12:00 tires. Talking tall gear ratio here. Thinking, 6,200 rpm would be 149 mph. YES!
Carl .......o&o>.....
 
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 08:07 PM
  #19  
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Ive made several rod adjustments; by the book and a little bit either side.

I prefer many times to keep the tranny in high and let the engine lug at lower rpm up some hills. By lug I mean starting at the bottom at 60 and cresting at 30-40. This truck someties runs VERY heavy. With the rod in place I just didnt like the sound of the engine racing when it downshifted; no tach in this beast and I havent checked the rear ratio but it sounds mighty tight at 40 or so. When I do downshift on the hills I take my foot off the floorboard.

I got into the manual shifting habit with my other truck, a 318 Dodge/904 which has about 250K on a junkyard tranny and 382K on the engine.

OTOH, my 396/375 hp Chebby with a built TH400 likes to upshift at around 5500! I dont baby it since it is a toy but the trucks make money.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2005 | 11:43 PM
  #20  
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Carl..update time. I finally got around to having time to work on it. I pulled the valve body, the gasket looked fine, no tears anywhere. I put a transgo SK-6 kit in it. I was surprised by how dirty the valve body was, some of those pistons in there had a lot of black gunk in them, though they seemed to move freely.

The band was out of adjustment also.

There were no chunks of metal in the pan, though the fluid was abit sparkly. Could this have been from those few times where the band slipped instead of engaging 2nd? I put an inline magnetic filter on a coolant line too.

So far it drives well, I was surprised by how fast the shifts occur, without banging. I've not seen any slipping, though time will tell on that one.

Thanks again for all your advice.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 01:46 AM
  #21  
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From: "Islander"
It's saved

Great to hear your on the road and not a wasted trans with a big rebuild bill. Hats off, most people will go to a trans shop and they will gladly agree "you need it rebuilt", take your money and think they are trans magicians. Drive on.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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