replacing fuel pump
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New User
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replacing fuel pump
hi all,
im new to the group.
my name is pete kennedy from shohola pa.
anyway i have an 97 f350 and it looses power on hard excell
so bad that it will drop cylinders till it stalls out ive installed a new fuel/water filter and i dont know what it is but on the side of the fuel bowl i have cleaned out the steel filter. still the same thing no engine light comes on.
hooked up a pressure guage and was getting about 35 psi and when i push down on the excell the gauge goes to 0 psi most of the time, it will also go to 0 psi when i cked it on the road when it was loosing power, anyway i got a new pump and wanted to know if there is anything i missed checking before install the pump?
and is there any tricks to installing the pump, like does the turbo have to come out?
thanks sooo much for any help!!!!!!!!!!!!
pete k
1997 F350 PSD auto 4x4
im new to the group.
my name is pete kennedy from shohola pa.
anyway i have an 97 f350 and it looses power on hard excell
so bad that it will drop cylinders till it stalls out ive installed a new fuel/water filter and i dont know what it is but on the side of the fuel bowl i have cleaned out the steel filter. still the same thing no engine light comes on.
hooked up a pressure guage and was getting about 35 psi and when i push down on the excell the gauge goes to 0 psi most of the time, it will also go to 0 psi when i cked it on the road when it was loosing power, anyway i got a new pump and wanted to know if there is anything i missed checking before install the pump?
and is there any tricks to installing the pump, like does the turbo have to come out?
thanks sooo much for any help!!!!!!!!!!!!
pete k
1997 F350 PSD auto 4x4
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 15
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
I have heard that you can do it without removing the turbo but I have also heard that it is much easier if you do remove it. The screen you cleaned out on the side of the fuel bowl is the fuel regulator screen. Probably some little black stuff in there? Injector o-ring particles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
I've replaced a couple fuel pumps and left the turbo in place. It's not real difficult but a set of mechanical fingers are really handy. The big banjo fitting (w/copper washers) on the back side of the pump is the hardest part of the job but with a little patience and sum cussin' should get it done. I used a 12 point wrench (1 1/4" I think) to remove the fitting.
BTW: Remove the fuel filter housing, give it a good cleaning check the fuel heater at the bottom for loose solder joints. The solder joints usually get pretty cruddy and fail. Brush em' clean and resolder as necessary. Bette than buying a new one.
Hope this helps.
BTW: Remove the fuel filter housing, give it a good cleaning check the fuel heater at the bottom for loose solder joints. The solder joints usually get pretty cruddy and fail. Brush em' clean and resolder as necessary. Bette than buying a new one.
Hope this helps.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
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The only tricky part about leaving the turbo in place is that rear banjo fitting. But I'd far rather deal with that trickiness than remove the turbo! I used a box-end 1.25" wrench, but it would have been easier if I had ground on the wrench or the turbo mounting plate a bit. If you're lucky you only need the wrench to crack the fitting open and give it the final torquedown on reassembly. The rest can be done with your fingers contorted back in there.
Be very careful with the little plunger piece that sticks down the hole and rides on the cam. When you remove the old pump you need to make sure that comes up with the pump and doesn't drop down in the hole, around the cam and into the depths of the engine.
It's definitely easier if you pull off the filter housing at the same time. I also replaced all the little blue hoses in there at the same time. (It's just Aeroquip hose than you can get at any speed shop by the foot; don't pay Ford's outrageous prices for the inch-long pieces in the bags.)
Duncan
Be very careful with the little plunger piece that sticks down the hole and rides on the cam. When you remove the old pump you need to make sure that comes up with the pump and doesn't drop down in the hole, around the cam and into the depths of the engine.
It's definitely easier if you pull off the filter housing at the same time. I also replaced all the little blue hoses in there at the same time. (It's just Aeroquip hose than you can get at any speed shop by the foot; don't pay Ford's outrageous prices for the inch-long pieces in the bags.)
Duncan
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Would that plunger rod that Frobozz is mentioning worn down? Anyone had one out and it's worn down too short to drive the pump? Just trying to help cover all the bases here.
Last edited by Kwikkordead; Nov 11, 2004 at 06:43 AM.
Posting Guru
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Man, if that plunger wore down you have much worse problems going on! It rides the cam like a lifter on one side and just nestles into a cup in a piston on the pump side.
The most common failure on the pumps seems to be internal leaks that put diesel out the weep hole on the bottom. (That was why I replaced mine - I was tired of the pool of diesel in the valley of doom running down the back of the bellhousing and all over my driveway!) I suppose next most common would be leaks on the other seals which would not allow it to build much pressure, which is what it sounds like happened to the original poster.
Duncan
The most common failure on the pumps seems to be internal leaks that put diesel out the weep hole on the bottom. (That was why I replaced mine - I was tired of the pool of diesel in the valley of doom running down the back of the bellhousing and all over my driveway!) I suppose next most common would be leaks on the other seals which would not allow it to build much pressure, which is what it sounds like happened to the original poster.
Duncan
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I've seen lot's of worn plungers on VW engines with good fuel pumps is why I am asking. It's a simple task to replace the push rod while the pump is out on them, but am uncertain on these earlier PSD's. I suppose you could do the shim mod but use a much thicker shim.
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Posting Guru
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Maybe it's just because the seals on the PSD pump are weak, but your seals are going to give out long before any pushrod wear problems show up. My pump made it over 100K miles, and that's sounds typical. If the seals did miraculously hold out until 300K or whenever pushrod wear became noticeable, I'd still replace the whole pump as the fix. It's less than $100.
(I'm not too familiar with VWs but it sounds like the pushrod must be wearing at a far faster rate on those, like in tens of thousands of miles?)
Duncan
(I'm not too familiar with VWs but it sounds like the pushrod must be wearing at a far faster rate on those, like in tens of thousands of miles?)
Duncan
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Frobozz
Maybe it's just because the seals on the PSD pump are weak, but your seals are going to give out long before any pushrod wear problems show up. My pump made it over 100K miles, and that's sounds typical. If the seals did miraculously hold out until 300K or whenever pushrod wear became noticeable, I'd still replace the whole pump as the fix. It's less than $100.
(I'm not too familiar with VWs but it sounds like the pushrod must be wearing at a far faster rate on those, like in tens of thousands of miles?)
Duncan
(I'm not too familiar with VWs but it sounds like the pushrod must be wearing at a far faster rate on those, like in tens of thousands of miles?)
Duncan
The usual solution at that point is to just pull it out as far as you can, cut off enough to not interfere and put a block off plate over the hole so you don't leak oil. And then install a frame mounted electric fuel pump. Problem solved. The shortened push rod just stays there for the duration of the engines life. The ones that I manage to get out make a good brake adjustment tool if you heat the end, bend it about 30 degrees and then flatten it out.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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105,000 miles and the pump started to leak in to the valley of dude did you see where that bolt went. Oh i think i see it we need to buy a new one. Napa auto for under 100 bucks.
I left the turbo on and i will next time at 200,000 + boy do i hope it last.
97 PSD 4X4
I left the turbo on and i will next time at 200,000 + boy do i hope it last.
97 PSD 4X4
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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I noticed that mine was leaking when I changed out the glow plugs.
I couldn't get a wrench on the banjo fitting so it's in the shop right now.
They told me that on some models it is necessary to jack up the cab to get the turbo out.
I couldn't get a wrench on the banjo fitting so it's in the shop right now.
They told me that on some models it is necessary to jack up the cab to get the turbo out.
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hi all,
well I installed the new pump and it went GREAT did not have to remove the turbo
started it at 10am and had it running at 11:45 am
the fuel pressure went to 65psi (from about 35 psi) test drive and looks good !!!!!!
THANKS to everyone that helped !!!!!
thanks again!!!
pete kennedy
well I installed the new pump and it went GREAT did not have to remove the turbo
started it at 10am and had it running at 11:45 am
the fuel pressure went to 65psi (from about 35 psi) test drive and looks good !!!!!!
THANKS to everyone that helped !!!!!
thanks again!!!
pete kennedy
