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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:35 AM
  #16  
koconno2's Avatar
koconno2
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From: Belleville, MI
What tool to get first.

This is a hard question to answer because every year I seem to have a new best tool. What I have learned over the years is "If you can afford it or afford to wait for it always go for the best". I was a mechanic out of high school then a tool & die apprentice but now I just work on house hold projects and car restoration stuff. I started buying the cheaper tools thinking I was saving money but 80% of the time the cheaper tool was a disappointment. Ask your self how many times you want to buy a tool in it's life time. If you only use it once a year then may be the cheaper tool will do.

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My list of home garage items to get and why:

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- Wire your garage with a separate service panel with 220V available. Good compressors will run on 220V single phase. Save your money for a large capacity tank with at least a 12cfm recovery rate. Down the road you will most likely power more tools that have high consumption rates like drills, sanders, grinders, spray guns and sand blasting guns. I currently have a 25 gal tank with an 8cfm @ 90psi recovery. It's fine for filling tires, impact wrenches and single shot use tools like nail guns but that's all.

- You can find good deals on old tools / machines but they may run on 220V. Try to run stationary machines on 220V like drill press and welders. They will draw less amperage then on 110V.

- My next purchase might be a small Oxy/Acetylene cutting torch set with a rose bud heating tip. I seem to have a need to heat items to remove them or fabricate my own tools.

- I found an 8"x1" grinder to be very handy and replaced the fine grit wheel with a wire wheel. This combo works well but the rated HP is not sufficient. Try to get at least a 1 HP grinder. They will cost more but it won't bog down and over load the motor.

- I have a parts cleaner tank also. It was the best thing I bought at the time but now it just takes up space since my restoration is past that stage.

- Always think safety first. I have fire extinguishers all around the garage but there no good if your not there to use them. So, invest in a good cabinet to store flammable liquids and don't save soiled rags. I still need to do this.

<o></o>

This list could go on for ever.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 12:50 PM
  #17  
idaho211's Avatar
idaho211
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Tuned
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From: Eastern Washington
Thanks again for all of your help
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 04:21 PM
  #18  
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natewoz
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From: MN
Air powered angle die grinder with a good compressor. Don't cheap out on the compressor. I use the die grinder all the time since it is very compact and I can get it into nearly and place on my truck. There are always rusty bolts that wont let free, and the only way to get them out is cutting.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 08:56 PM
  #19  
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Fritolay
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From: in the springs
if you are on a tight budget and are kind of handy fabricating. you can buy a compressor, and tank separatlly then use almost any motor electric or gas (portable) and build yourself an ectremely high volume pump on a budget, in fact if you check on this sight in one of the tech articles you can make an aircompressor out of an old air conditioning compressor.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 11:08 AM
  #20  
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zuikoman
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I would say a compressor is the most useful tool to have around. The tools you run off it are much cheaper than the equivilant electric versions so you can recoup some cost there.

When shopping, check out the CFM at 90psi. That will tell you what kind of tools you can run off it. I would only get an oil lubed belt drive unit with a decent sized tank (40 gallons min). Two stage is optional IMO, that will get you higher available pressures (and therefore the tank will hold more air for a given size) but it will add a lot to the cost.

You can also get a big compressor a lot cheaper sometimes with no regulator, pressure gauge, quick disconnects or anything and add them yourself. It's pretty easy to do... it is just plumbing work.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 05:44 PM
  #21  
68 351 bronc's Avatar
68 351 bronc
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From: Colville
1) Compressor
1) Bench Vise
1) MIG Welder
1) Full set of hand tools

For a restoration project You will use every single one of the above items, in no particular order.
Even if you can't buy them all maybe you know someone who can help you out.

>Parts washer can be cheap.
>Floor jack should not!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 06:02 PM
  #22  
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jenral
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Prince George B.C.
Beer Bottle Opener..........I'm a fair weather backyard wannabe mechanic. The opener is about all I want to learn how to use lol
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 07:26 PM
  #23  
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ford390gashog
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i use my compressor ,welder open end wrench set,and screwdriver set the most
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 08:06 PM
  #24  
dieselstroke's Avatar
dieselstroke
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From: whitney
whats the difference between stage1 and stage2 compressors. Btw not terribly long
ago I bought me a new compressor I gotta tell everyone I know lol. Its a 27 gallon
5 horsepower ''vertical'' tank, the brand is All Trade, I purchased it from tractor
supply for 200.00!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 09:00 PM
  #25  
76supercab2's Avatar
76supercab2
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You guys got it all wrong!

CHECKBOOK!!! THE most important tool in your toolbox!

Get that and everything else will follow!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 09:13 PM
  #26  
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fixnair
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Originally Posted by dieselstroke
whats the difference between stage1 and stage2 compressors. Btw not terribly long
ago I bought me a new compressor I gotta tell everyone I know lol. Its a 27 gallon
5 horsepower ''vertical'' tank, the brand is All Trade, I purchased it from tractor
supply for 200.00!
A two stage compressor has at least two pistons, one large diameter first stage piston that takes air from the atmosphere and compresses it to around 35 PSIG and discharges it into the intercooler where it gives up its heat. From the intercooler the air goes to the second stage piston ( about one third the diameter of the first stage ) and is compressed again from 35 PSIG to the final discharge pressure. Up to around 250 max. If you add a third stage you can go up to around 900 and a fourth to 3500, and so on. The highest pressure I've worked on is 5 stages for the Navy at 10,000 PSIG. the first stage piston was 8" and the final stage was 1/4".
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 09:51 PM
  #27  
68 351 bronc's Avatar
68 351 bronc
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From: Colville
But 76 Supercab
How do you, or I, get the checkbook?
I need a couple more tools.
She keeps it like a 4OOci cheby:

OUT OF BALANCE, WORTHLESS, AND RARE TO FIND!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 09:56 PM
  #28  
68 351 bronc's Avatar
68 351 bronc
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From: Colville
FIXNAIR, what does the G stand for after PSI-G?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 10:37 PM
  #29  
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dieselstroke
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From: whitney
hmm interesting, learn something new everyday!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 12:10 AM
  #30  
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fixnair
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Originally Posted by 68 351 bronc
FIXNAIR, what does the G stand for after PSI-G?
The G indicates that the pressure referenced is "Gauge" as opposed to "absolute" pressure. Absolute pressure is atmospheric pressure, 14.7 PSIA at sea level and 68 degrees. You would use PSIA when calculating things like compression ratios or volumetric efficiency. Just a bunch of whooey for the usual shop application.
 
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