Hello Everyone,

My first time posting here, I hope I can get some help. OK, I have a 1995 F-150 4x4 with a 300 EFI inline 6 cylinder. First, I need to know the best mods to do to this motor, cam, Intake, chips, header, etc. (and where to get them) as I need all the low end power I can Possibly get out of this motor, Because this motor has very few miles on it, so I do not want to upgrade to a bigger one yet.
I am also putting 3/4 ton running gear and 4-6 more inches of lift, BUT I have a problem with my 38.5/16-15 TSL's hitting the I-Beams (If that's what their called) What can I do to stop this?
Also, My transfer case busted last time out, and I'm thinking about doing away with the 5 speed manual, any suggestions for replacement on both?
And last but not least, I need lockers and lower gears, I found the gears but what's the best lockers? I'm looking at Detroit's now.
The only modifications done to it as of now are, True dual exhaust, dual electric radiator fans, Tachometer, 7" suspension lift, 3" body lift, lowered gears (but not low enough), Solid axle front end conversion, K&N filter, Dual batteries with high amp alternator, steel braided brake lines on front, Kevlar clutch (I think that's what its called), and a lot of cosmetic stuff inside and out. Any suggestions on what else I can do? any help would be really appreciated. Thanks

You can see it at http://www.pro-oil.com/my-truck.html but please be patent for them to load

 

Holy Shimoly dude, that's one sick pickup! Just wanted to say that I'm currently pursuing a 95 F150 with the 300cid I-6 and 5-Speed Manual, and you're list of current mods has given me some good future mod ideas! I love that big Ford logo on the tailgate!

 

Roushians, Thanks for the comment!
I have worked very hard to make it what it is today. The truck has really good power as it is, The 300 is a pretty strong motor to be what it is, you will be very happy with it when you get it.

 

Sounds like quite a project!

If you're switching to 3/4-ton axles (Dana 50 front, Ford 10.25" rear) you will need new tires and 16" (or 16.5", since big mud tires usually come in this size) wheels to clear the larger 3/4-ton brakes. Since you are swapping axles, why not just eliminate the independent (TTB) frontend and use a one-ton Dana 60 straight axle instead? Either way, you'll likely be converting the truck to leaf springs in the front anyways and the straight axle is preferred over the TTB for big lifts. You'll also need driveshaft yokes of the right size to go along with the larger 3/4- or one-ton pinion yokes.

On the gear ratio, 38-39" tires with a 300-6, I would go with 4.88's and 5.13's are still a possible choice if you want a little more grunt and have an overdrive trans.

On the trans/t-case swap issue, a ZF 5speed from an F250/350 with a small-block will work with your engine and give you a granny-low first gear and an overdrive fifth in a trans that is plenty strong. Pair that with a manually-shifted BW 1356 from the same truck and you should be good to go unless you want to swap in an iron-case NP205 instead.

Good luck with the project!

 

Thanks for the information,
I already have the solid axle front end conversion, with using coils instead of leafs in the front, I know how to make the 3/4 ton work with the coil spring system, you cut and weld the "wedges" off the 79 1/2 ton and weld them on the 3/4 then it just slides into place (then all the little stuff goes on it).
I am looking at 5.13 gears, but I'm worried that it will be to low, but if I decide to go with 44"+ tires would they be OK? and has anyone used the IROK tires? http://www.intercotire.com/html/irok.htm
I have found a transfer case out of an 86 model, but they say it has a higher low range than the 95's is this true?
A buddy of mine has 15" wheels on his 3/4 ton axles but they have a very deep offset to clear the brake drums, I want to find some like that but in aluminum, If I cannot find any or have some made I guess I will be going to 16.5" wheels.
Anyone know which is better out of a hydraulic or mechanical cam?
Thanks,

 

Holy crap batman! That thing is sick. What are you running for lift and tires? Looks like TSL's.

 

Holy crap batman! That's nice.

 

7" suspension lift, 3" body lift with 16/38.5-15 TSL's.
I hope to add more lift while I have it tore down.

 

Front & rear ring & pinions, install kit, front Detroit Tru Trac & rear Detroit Locker and 4. 19.5/44 Super Swamper Bogger's with 4. Series 6079 Pro Comp Xtreme Alloys for $3,799.99 shipped, is that a bad deal?

 

id stick with hydralic rather than mechanical... cams for the 6 can best be found at clifford performance. They have everything from a standard high lift cam to a street racing cam that can move your peak power to 6500 rpms IN A friggen 6 lol... Have fun.

 

How did that 3 inch bl work?
I have a 4 in SL and am thing about a 1in bl so I can run 37s.

 

works good, have to check all the bolts about every 10k miles (JUST to be sure, havent had them come loose yet) but it works good, everything is still the way it was stock, i.e. cab doesn't shake, make noises, bed doesn't shift around, non of those happen, like some people say theirs do. front/rear bumpers are raised up, rads raised also, shifters work fine. overall i would defiantly do it, if i had the choice again as i have no compaints with it what soever

 

What 3/4 ton axle are you planning on using? If it's from the era truck you have the only 3/4 ton front axle is the dana 50 and it's TTB. Your Gonna be needing 1 ton stuff, like the dana 60 front and a 10.25 rear. As for the tranny, if you wanna stick with a manual, get the ZF 5 speed, it's much more HD than the stock mazda. As for the tcase, the stock one you have is a good case, but for brute strength get a NP205. 5.13 will be fine with the tires you want to run and will be perfect if you go with 44's. Cam and headers will wake up the I6, also look into getting the heads reworked.