Frame Straightning
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 314
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From: Medford, Oregon
Frame Straightning
Anyone have a good technique to straighten a frame?? the frame isnt bent like your thinking.. the previous owner had done a half a$$ job of mounting the motor and the rail tops are sunk a little bit where the ??? I think they were motor mounts ??? were bolted to the rails should I just beat them back up or warm them up a touch and beat them( whoops I shouldnt say beat..gently persuade is what I meant)
Glack
Glack
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Hey Glack - Mild steel doesn't really care if you heat it or not, unless the area to straighten will have to move a lot over a short distance.
If you are just banging (oops, persuading) a low area back to level, no problem.
If the area to be moved is severly kinked, then heat it cherry red and it will move easily without cracking, just like the old blacksmiths did it.
These frames are not heat treated. If you use heat ALLOW IT TO COOL AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. If you "help" it along by quenching with water, it will get harder (not stronger) and crack easily under use later.
BTW, a good straightening tool for the flanges of a channel frame is a large crecent wrench. Adjust the jaws to the material thickness, slide it over the flange, and pry (a little), then move it a bit and pry that section, etc. Just move along, back and forth along the flange until the flange looks generally straight. If you need it, you can get more leverage with a piece of pipe slid over the wrench handle. Go slow. Take your time. Don't get overly enthusiastic and you'll be fine.
Good Luck!
If you are just banging (oops, persuading) a low area back to level, no problem.
If the area to be moved is severly kinked, then heat it cherry red and it will move easily without cracking, just like the old blacksmiths did it.
These frames are not heat treated. If you use heat ALLOW IT TO COOL AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. If you "help" it along by quenching with water, it will get harder (not stronger) and crack easily under use later.
BTW, a good straightening tool for the flanges of a channel frame is a large crecent wrench. Adjust the jaws to the material thickness, slide it over the flange, and pry (a little), then move it a bit and pry that section, etc. Just move along, back and forth along the flange until the flange looks generally straight. If you need it, you can get more leverage with a piece of pipe slid over the wrench handle. Go slow. Take your time. Don't get overly enthusiastic and you'll be fine.
Good Luck!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 2
From: Southern New Hampshire
Before you start beatin' measure the track on each side to be sure nothing else is messed up.
For your problem the fix may be as simple as placing a bottle jack and a heavy piece of metal (rectangular cast iron weights from a junked weight machine work great). Then heat the area and watch the depression come right up.
Over the years Ive straightened several frames in running vehicles using a chain and a stout tree. Once the wheelbase is back to spec there is a huge chance the alignment is right on spec. Amazing how metal holds a memory.
For your problem the fix may be as simple as placing a bottle jack and a heavy piece of metal (rectangular cast iron weights from a junked weight machine work great). Then heat the area and watch the depression come right up.
Over the years Ive straightened several frames in running vehicles using a chain and a stout tree. Once the wheelbase is back to spec there is a huge chance the alignment is right on spec. Amazing how metal holds a memory.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 314
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From: Medford, Oregon
Thanks Guys, It is not kinked or anything major, just where the motor mounts were sitting on the top of the frame it has changed the top of the rail shape, just bent it down a bit. not a big deal I guess, I will weld up the bolt holes and while its still warm I will bend it back up
Thanks again
Glack
Thanks again
Glack
