Just bought a 2002 Edge 3.0 l. I commute 90 miles a day, mostly highway, should I constantly adjust my speed on the highway for the break-in period? Also, is it advisable to keep the speed down? Any advice on this subject is greatly appreciated.

 

Its okay to run at the same speed just make sure to keep your foot off the floor. Hope that helps

 

Well I wouldnt set the cruise... and I would take it easy for the first 500-1000 miles, like dont take it over 4000 rpm (if possible)
but I wouldnt worry about it too much.

Basically all you have to do is: no cruise control and dont redline it... dont drive at 90mph,don't take it to the drag strip. etc

Rand

Oh and I changed the oil on mine at 1800 miles as I didnt feel comfortable with the orginal oil (with all the metal particles from the breakin)
However ford does use an extended life filter so It would have been fine to 3k-5k or so.

 

I just drove mine as I intend to drive it... who knows what will happen next? With the general warning Ford gives now, who could be sure? Just so you don't think I'm brand knocking, EVERY car/vehicle I've owned has been a Ford(21 yrs. old, 7 cars[varying P.O.S.'s])

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 29-Jul-02 AT 09:01 AM (EST)]If it were mine, I would not use the cruise, as stated, and keep the pedal off the metal-don't floor it all the time. I would cruise about 10-15 minutes at 65, accelerate to 70-75, and then back off totally for a few seconds down to 55-60, to suck oil up on the rings from high vacuum, then accelerate back up to 60's somewhere. The MAIN thing is to allow the engine to breathe at irregular increments, or, minimally, to vary the speed so that you do not have it under constant load with no deceleration or acceleration. Do this for the first 500-1000 miles, your choice. I went from Indy to Denver doing this...
The last car I broke in that way now has 205K miles on it, V-6 vulcan. Still gets 25-28 mpg, depending on who is doing the driving (me or missus), will burn a quart of oil in 3000 miles, but I think my pan gasket replacement is actually leaking more than it burns. Valve covers have never been off... So i must have done somthing right.
tom

p.s. I did not/do not change the oil 'til about 5-6000 miles. Any metal particles, i figure, should be caught by the filter, and if the filter does not catch them, they are too small to worry about. Personally, I think this 'run it for 10 minutes and change the oil' after a rebuild is a little obsessive. It's an engine, not your first born. It will be boring to you before it gets worn out, or you will want to change the cam/crank/pistons whatever way before they are worn out by not changing the oil after a rebuild. Heck, I even put the oil back in after changing the pan gasket and having a bad leak. Cleaned the drain pan, and just poured it back in after the repair. Maybe I'm just too cheap, but look at the miles... tom

 

The dealer claims the engine is broke in on a "rack" at the factory and no breakin is required. I think I will follow your advice...thanks!!!


>If it were mine, I would not use the cruise, as stated, and
>keep the pedal off the metal-don't floor it all the time. I
>would cruise about 10-15 minutes at 65, accelerate to
>70-75, and then back off totally for a few seconds down to
>55-60, to suck oil up on the rings from high vacuum, then
>accelerate back up to 60's somewhere. The MAIN thing is to
>allow the engine to breathe at irregular increments, or,
>minimally, to vary the speed so that you do not have it
>under constant load with no deceleration or acceleration.
>Do this for the first 500-1000 miles, your choice. I went
>from Indy to Denver doing this...
> The last car I broke in that way now has 205K miles on it,
>V-6 vulcan. Still gets 25-28 mpg, depending on who is doing
>the driving (me or missus), will burn a quart of oil in 3000
>miles, but I think my pan gasket replacement is actually
>leaking more than it burns. Valve covers have never been
>off... So i must have done somthing right.
>tom
>
>p.s. I did not/do not change the oil 'til about 5-6000
>miles. Any metal particles, i figure, should be caught by
>the filter, and if the filter does not catch them, they are
>too small to worry about. Personally, I think this 'run it
>for 10 minutes and change the oil' after a rebuild is a
>little obsessive. It's an engine, not your first born. It
>will be boring to you before it gets worn out, or you will
>want to change the cam/crank/pistons whatever way before
>they are worn out by not changing the oil after a rebuild.
>Heck, I even put the oil back in after changing the pan
>gasket and having a bad leak. Cleaned the drain pan, and
>just poured it back in after the repair. Maybe I'm just too
>cheap, but look at the miles... tom

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Aug-02 AT 02:08 AM (EST)]Well the Powerstroke diesels take over 5000 miles to really break in.

The gas'ers are sorta broke in at the factory... but you need to break it in for 500-1000 miles so the rings seat etc... go buy a new ranger with like 4 miles on it and then put synthethic oil in it ... then watch the engine leak it all over..... if you do the same thing but put the synth. in after about 1000 miles it dont leak... so obiviously a break in is needed.. abeit much shorter than the engines of yesteryear.


Note: someone has done this before but i forget the Link/site it was a company not a person.


Rand:-)


I plan on going 7-10k on dino then Probably go with a syn blend oil.
and 4-5k intervals on changes

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Aug-02 AT 12:30 PM (EST)]Ford probably breaks them in like Chrysler used to do until they got caught. I remember reading a few years back about Chrysler employees taking cars off the line and driving them around and then reseting the odometer back to 0 and then selling them as new. Oh and they also drove them around with no oil in the oil pan. They were runing on the assemble lube used when the engine was put together......


>The dealer claims the engine is broke in on a "rack" at the
>factory and no breakin is required. I think I will follow
>your advice...thanks!!!
>
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