361 engine
The 360, a member of the FE engine family, is the common-as-dirt engine used in F-100's and some F-250's. It's your basic low compression truck engine. It is a valuable commodity though since it can be used as the basis for great 390 / 410 builds.
The 361, a member of the FT engine family, is a heavy duty relative to the 360. The bore and stroke are the same, but it uses heavier duty parts. These include a forged crank, and high strength block. The compression is also lower. The heads flow less than the 360 heads which helps low rpm torque. It also uses smaller valves.
A lot of parts will interchange though. What will and what is necessary to do so is rather complex, so if you have any questions ask.
I would get heads off a '72 or later 360. The flow the same as the 390 heads, and have hardened exhaust valve seats to allow the use of unleaded gas. You're looking for D2TE or later heads. Then, I would get either a stock 4-barrel intake, or an edelbrock performer intake.
The mustang had an automatic in it and I want to put a manual in it. I already have the pedals in it. I was wondering what tranny might work in this setup.
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Cool!
I can help you with the engine. I dont have experience with manual transmissions though. Maybe someone else will jump in here and help you with that?
As for the engine, here's my plan:
1. Keep the 361 FT block. It's plenty strong to support what you are about to build and to keep up with nitrous / forced induction.
2. Get the timing cover from a 360 or a 390, the FT one wont work.
3. Get a crank and a set of rods for a 390.
4. Get a set of TRW / Speed Pro L2291 forged pistons. They'll work with the nitrous or boost.
5. If you dont have money for a set of edelbrock heads, get a set off a 360 as mentioned above. Port them. Ask if you have any questions.
6. Get a Crane 343941 cam. There are advantages to a roller setup like the Crane 349521, but it doesn't sound like you want to spend that kind of money.
7. You'll need adjustable rocker arms so you can accurately set lifter preload.
8. Get an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley 750cfm, vacuum secondary or double pumper to your like. I would suggest the double pumper since you're going to be using a manual transmission in a light car.
There's a good site to get FE stuff. That site is DSC.
Now people are going to tell you you're crazy, it cant be done, you'd be better off with a 347 stroker, and so on. Stick with it, you'll show 'em what's up.
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2.) How do i go about porting these heads? (I have a die grinder and bits.)
3.) What are the advantages of the roller setup you suggested?
And what would you estimate the HP and torque of this engine build to be.(with and without the turbos.) Also what do you think this engine's max rpms be.
You will need a FE bellhousing for a 4-speed, then you can go with a top loader or a T5/T6 setup.
My guess for this thing is around $2500, exclusive of the turbos and don't forget to find yourself a machine shop that knows their for FE's. Will this Mustang be a daily driver and will you have any emission laws in your state to contend with?
Just my $.02's--Mike
2. On the intake ports, basically smooth out the casting roughness. If the intake manifold has bigger ports than the heads, which it will, then chamfer the opening of the intake ports on the heads to match the intake manifold. A gasket works good for measuring. On the exhaust side, you'll want to polish everything out. There is a casting bump on the top of the port, toward the back, that impedes flow. You'll want to remove it. You can open the port up a little if you want. Dont touch the valve guide area on either the intake or exhaust side. You can really screw things up there. Also, in the port bowls there may be some sharp steps, you can grind those smooth. I'm sure there's more to it, but that's how I did mine.
3. The advantages of the roller setup is more HP and torque. It allows for quicker valve movement and thus more airflow.
I cant give numbers with a turbo, since I dont know what turbo you'd be using.
Here's the N/A numbers, with mufflers:
With the 941 cam, the above build results in 391hp @ 5000rpm, and 442ft-lbs @ 3500rpm. The torque curve is basically flat from 2000 to 5000rpm.
With the 521 roller cam, you're looking at 451hp @ 5500rpm, and 470ft-lbs @ 4500rpm. The torque at 2000rpm is 411ft-lbs, so you're not hurting down there either.
With a turbo, you will need different pistons since you want to lower the compression so it doesnt ping itself to pieces. Personally, I'd forget the turbo and run nitrous on the above motor.
For the 941: Rockers, go with the factory adjustable type from DSC. Go with their 427 Adjustable Pushrods too. The pushrods aren't adjustable, but it designates that they go with the adjustable rockers. Also get their premium quality rocker shafts. The stock stands are fine. Lifters, get the Crane hydraulic lifters from Jegs.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Nov 7, 2004 at 11:28 AM.


