361 engine
Welcome to FTE!
The 360, a member of the FE engine family, is the common-as-dirt engine used in F-100's and some F-250's. It's your basic low compression truck engine. It is a valuable commodity though since it can be used as the basis for great 390 / 410 builds.
The 361, a member of the FT engine family, is a heavy duty relative to the 360. The bore and stroke are the same, but it uses heavier duty parts. These include a forged crank, and high strength block. The compression is also lower. The heads flow less than the 360 heads which helps low rpm torque. It also uses smaller valves.
A lot of parts will interchange though. What will and what is necessary to do so is rather complex, so if you have any questions ask.
The 360, a member of the FE engine family, is the common-as-dirt engine used in F-100's and some F-250's. It's your basic low compression truck engine. It is a valuable commodity though since it can be used as the basis for great 390 / 410 builds.
The 361, a member of the FT engine family, is a heavy duty relative to the 360. The bore and stroke are the same, but it uses heavier duty parts. These include a forged crank, and high strength block. The compression is also lower. The heads flow less than the 360 heads which helps low rpm torque. It also uses smaller valves.
A lot of parts will interchange though. What will and what is necessary to do so is rather complex, so if you have any questions ask.
You can and yes, it'd be worthwhile. You gain compression in that the heads have about 10cc's less combustion chamber volume. You also gain hp and torque since the heads flow much better than the FT heads.
I would get heads off a '72 or later 360. The flow the same as the 390 heads, and have hardened exhaust valve seats to allow the use of unleaded gas. You're looking for D2TE or later heads. Then, I would get either a stock 4-barrel intake, or an edelbrock performer intake.
I would get heads off a '72 or later 360. The flow the same as the 390 heads, and have hardened exhaust valve seats to allow the use of unleaded gas. You're looking for D2TE or later heads. Then, I would get either a stock 4-barrel intake, or an edelbrock performer intake.
361 engine build
I am hopefully putting this engine into my 89 mustang. I am looking to run this on pump gas. I dont have a lot of money to spend, however i was planning on buying an intake, cam and lifter kit, headers with duals. I may down the road try and set up a turbo or nitrous setup on this engine.
The mustang had an automatic in it and I want to put a manual in it. I already have the pedals in it. I was wondering what tranny might work in this setup.
The mustang had an automatic in it and I want to put a manual in it. I already have the pedals in it. I was wondering what tranny might work in this setup.
Trending Topics
This sounds like an odd build. You're taking an FT, an engine meant for a dump truck, and putting regular pickup truck heads on it, and putting it into a car that was never meant to have it. This has been one of my dreams for a long time.
Cool!
I can help you with the engine. I dont have experience with manual transmissions though. Maybe someone else will jump in here and help you with that?
As for the engine, here's my plan:
1. Keep the 361 FT block. It's plenty strong to support what you are about to build and to keep up with nitrous / forced induction.
2. Get the timing cover from a 360 or a 390, the FT one wont work.
3. Get a crank and a set of rods for a 390.
4. Get a set of TRW / Speed Pro L2291 forged pistons. They'll work with the nitrous or boost.
5. If you dont have money for a set of edelbrock heads, get a set off a 360 as mentioned above. Port them. Ask if you have any questions.
6. Get a Crane 343941 cam. There are advantages to a roller setup like the Crane 349521, but it doesn't sound like you want to spend that kind of money.
7. You'll need adjustable rocker arms so you can accurately set lifter preload.
8. Get an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley 750cfm, vacuum secondary or double pumper to your like. I would suggest the double pumper since you're going to be using a manual transmission in a light car.
There's a good site to get FE stuff. That site is DSC.
Now people are going to tell you you're crazy, it cant be done, you'd be better off with a 347 stroker, and so on. Stick with it, you'll show 'em what's up.
Cool!
I can help you with the engine. I dont have experience with manual transmissions though. Maybe someone else will jump in here and help you with that?
As for the engine, here's my plan:
1. Keep the 361 FT block. It's plenty strong to support what you are about to build and to keep up with nitrous / forced induction.
2. Get the timing cover from a 360 or a 390, the FT one wont work.
3. Get a crank and a set of rods for a 390.
4. Get a set of TRW / Speed Pro L2291 forged pistons. They'll work with the nitrous or boost.
5. If you dont have money for a set of edelbrock heads, get a set off a 360 as mentioned above. Port them. Ask if you have any questions.
6. Get a Crane 343941 cam. There are advantages to a roller setup like the Crane 349521, but it doesn't sound like you want to spend that kind of money.
7. You'll need adjustable rocker arms so you can accurately set lifter preload.
8. Get an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley 750cfm, vacuum secondary or double pumper to your like. I would suggest the double pumper since you're going to be using a manual transmission in a light car.
There's a good site to get FE stuff. That site is DSC.
Now people are going to tell you you're crazy, it cant be done, you'd be better off with a 347 stroker, and so on. Stick with it, you'll show 'em what's up.
361 engine
1.) What dome would you suggest on the pistons?
2.) How do i go about porting these heads? (I have a die grinder and bits.)
3.) What are the advantages of the roller setup you suggested?
And what would you estimate the HP and torque of this engine build to be.(with and without the turbos.) Also what do you think this engine's max rpms be.
2.) How do i go about porting these heads? (I have a die grinder and bits.)
3.) What are the advantages of the roller setup you suggested?
And what would you estimate the HP and torque of this engine build to be.(with and without the turbos.) Also what do you think this engine's max rpms be.
Just a few thoughts. I am not too experienced with the turbos but if my short term memory serves right, they require low compression. That said, you will not want domed pistons. The roller set up will keep everything rolling nicely when you start to wind up the rpms. Head work can be accomplished and several here have done it themselves, several have had experience with misshaps as well...
You will need a FE bellhousing for a 4-speed, then you can go with a top loader or a T5/T6 setup.
My guess for this thing is around $2500, exclusive of the turbos and don't forget to find yourself a machine shop that knows their for FE's. Will this Mustang be a daily driver and will you have any emission laws in your state to contend with?
Just my $.02's--Mike
You will need a FE bellhousing for a 4-speed, then you can go with a top loader or a T5/T6 setup.
My guess for this thing is around $2500, exclusive of the turbos and don't forget to find yourself a machine shop that knows their for FE's. Will this Mustang be a daily driver and will you have any emission laws in your state to contend with?
Just my $.02's--Mike
1. Forget the domes. You want TRW L2291 forged flat top pistons, with valve reliefs.
2. On the intake ports, basically smooth out the casting roughness. If the intake manifold has bigger ports than the heads, which it will, then chamfer the opening of the intake ports on the heads to match the intake manifold. A gasket works good for measuring. On the exhaust side, you'll want to polish everything out. There is a casting bump on the top of the port, toward the back, that impedes flow. You'll want to remove it. You can open the port up a little if you want. Dont touch the valve guide area on either the intake or exhaust side. You can really screw things up there. Also, in the port bowls there may be some sharp steps, you can grind those smooth. I'm sure there's more to it, but that's how I did mine.
3. The advantages of the roller setup is more HP and torque. It allows for quicker valve movement and thus more airflow.
I cant give numbers with a turbo, since I dont know what turbo you'd be using.
Here's the N/A numbers, with mufflers:
With the 941 cam, the above build results in 391hp @ 5000rpm, and 442ft-lbs @ 3500rpm. The torque curve is basically flat from 2000 to 5000rpm.
With the 521 roller cam, you're looking at 451hp @ 5500rpm, and 470ft-lbs @ 4500rpm. The torque at 2000rpm is 411ft-lbs, so you're not hurting down there either.
With a turbo, you will need different pistons since you want to lower the compression so it doesnt ping itself to pieces. Personally, I'd forget the turbo and run nitrous on the above motor.
2. On the intake ports, basically smooth out the casting roughness. If the intake manifold has bigger ports than the heads, which it will, then chamfer the opening of the intake ports on the heads to match the intake manifold. A gasket works good for measuring. On the exhaust side, you'll want to polish everything out. There is a casting bump on the top of the port, toward the back, that impedes flow. You'll want to remove it. You can open the port up a little if you want. Dont touch the valve guide area on either the intake or exhaust side. You can really screw things up there. Also, in the port bowls there may be some sharp steps, you can grind those smooth. I'm sure there's more to it, but that's how I did mine.
3. The advantages of the roller setup is more HP and torque. It allows for quicker valve movement and thus more airflow.
I cant give numbers with a turbo, since I dont know what turbo you'd be using.
Here's the N/A numbers, with mufflers:
With the 941 cam, the above build results in 391hp @ 5000rpm, and 442ft-lbs @ 3500rpm. The torque curve is basically flat from 2000 to 5000rpm.
With the 521 roller cam, you're looking at 451hp @ 5500rpm, and 470ft-lbs @ 4500rpm. The torque at 2000rpm is 411ft-lbs, so you're not hurting down there either.
With a turbo, you will need different pistons since you want to lower the compression so it doesnt ping itself to pieces. Personally, I'd forget the turbo and run nitrous on the above motor.
I suggest the NOS Super Powershot kit. Start on the 100hp setting and work up to the 150hp setting. It should be quite safe with the above build, so long as the fuel delivery stays adequate.
For the 941: Rockers, go with the factory adjustable type from DSC. Go with their 427 Adjustable Pushrods too. The pushrods aren't adjustable, but it designates that they go with the adjustable rockers. Also get their premium quality rocker shafts. The stock stands are fine. Lifters, get the Crane hydraulic lifters from Jegs.
For the 941: Rockers, go with the factory adjustable type from DSC. Go with their 427 Adjustable Pushrods too. The pushrods aren't adjustable, but it designates that they go with the adjustable rockers. Also get their premium quality rocker shafts. The stock stands are fine. Lifters, get the Crane hydraulic lifters from Jegs.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Nov 7, 2004 at 11:28 AM.


