OW My headers hurt!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: pennsylvania
OW My headers hurt!
1st the good news: my Hedman Elite headers & true duals are on my 95 flareside. So is my 4" suspension lift! BONUS! Now the bad news...The new angle of my front drive shaft causes it to grind on my reducer flange on driver's side!!! The only thing I can come up with is to make a wedge shaped flange adapter where the headers meet the head.( Fat at the top, 1/8") tapering down to like 1/32" at the bottom side. Does any one have any other ideas on correcting this? How about a good HI-temp sealant capable of handling header temps?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: chino valley az
just on the flange? if so i would have a new piece of pipe welded on the the collector pipe to move the flange out of the way. i have run into the same situation on the early (80-86) f series and broncos. always has a step made from the 2.5 or 3" down to the desired pipe, weld it to the collector pipe, and put the flange at the end of that. hope that helps..
Kurt
Kurt
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 941
Likes: 4
It is difficult enough to get headers to seal and stay sealed at the exhaust ports stock out of the box. Modifying the flange, inserting wedges, high-temp sealants, etc. seem like a very distant and undesireable last resort. Exhaust gas temperatures at the ports can approach 2000 degrees.
Surely there is an easier way to mod the headers at the point of interference.
Surely there is an easier way to mod the headers at the point of interference.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: chino valley az
uh 2000 i think is a little high. your headers would more likely take about 2-3 heat cycles at that point than turn to glass, and shatter. is it hitting the flange or the header pipe? i thought it would be alot easier top moodifiy to collector pipe at the bottom than to mess with the flange. thats a bad idea, gaurantee they will never seal again..
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Roland, Ar
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
From: Ocean Park WA
If it's rubbing on the flange at the collector take it to the exhaust sop and have them cut and move it. As mentioned befor adding spacers or fancy shims is asking for a leak and other problems.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: pennsylvania
They are long tubes. Hedman Elites. They have a spherical collector that mates up with the reducer. The two triangular flange couplers ( with 3 holes each) are what is rubbing my drive shaft. Cutting or modifying the collector??????? These are HTC coated and can't be welded on. PITA!! Any way on Monday I'm gonna make the wedged shim/gasket out of copper at work, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: chino valley az
i would have just cut enough collector off to remove the flange, ground some of the htc coating off with a 3m or wire wheel. and welded an extension on. paint it with some matching HT paint, and been done. i like the htc coating. but even in the salt belts,the headers never last more than 4-5 years. usually the flanges warp before they rust through, even the 3/8" flanges..
Kurt
Kurt