Dash Board Problems
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Dash Board Problems
1997 Ford F150
2X4
Triton V8
I sure hope some one ou there can send me in the right diredtion other then the local mechanic! I have a couple differnt problems. 1.) I have the Low Fuel warning light and the Check Engine Coolant Temp warning light on all the time. It started a few weeks ago and I checked the fluids and they are fine. I know I have gas cause I just spent 90 bucks on it and I know there is antifreeze because I flushed the system. Why are the lights on? I have checked all fuses and relays for continuity - they are fine. The other problem I have might be related to my Low Fuel light though, the fuel gauge itself will only correctly read when I first start the truck. I can put 90$ in it and drive for 4 hours but it will still read full until I turn off the truck and start it again then it will read correct. I have checked the fuel sending unit for resistance ( I had about an 1/8th of a tank it read 30 ohms on the 200 ohm scale), I tried to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery terminals for 15 mins, and now I am not sure what else to check. Coule possibly the whole instrument cluster be pooched?? I also have 2 instrument lights that have burnt out in the last couple weeks. Any HELP would be greatly appreciated on this. Thanks for your time guys!! er... and girls!!
Gards
2X4
Triton V8
I sure hope some one ou there can send me in the right diredtion other then the local mechanic! I have a couple differnt problems. 1.) I have the Low Fuel warning light and the Check Engine Coolant Temp warning light on all the time. It started a few weeks ago and I checked the fluids and they are fine. I know I have gas cause I just spent 90 bucks on it and I know there is antifreeze because I flushed the system. Why are the lights on? I have checked all fuses and relays for continuity - they are fine. The other problem I have might be related to my Low Fuel light though, the fuel gauge itself will only correctly read when I first start the truck. I can put 90$ in it and drive for 4 hours but it will still read full until I turn off the truck and start it again then it will read correct. I have checked the fuel sending unit for resistance ( I had about an 1/8th of a tank it read 30 ohms on the 200 ohm scale), I tried to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery terminals for 15 mins, and now I am not sure what else to check. Coule possibly the whole instrument cluster be pooched?? I also have 2 instrument lights that have burnt out in the last couple weeks. Any HELP would be greatly appreciated on this. Thanks for your time guys!! er... and girls!!
Gards
Last edited by Gards; Oct 29, 2004 at 11:33 AM. Reason: im a ******* with spelling
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
at 22.4 ohms the guage will read empty, and at 145 ohms the guage will read full. If the sender checks normal and both those warning lamps are illuminated with no cause, then its likely the control circuit in the cluster has gone defective. That would require a new cluster.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Orange, TX
Gauge
I have had problems with Fords in the past with the low coolant light staying on. The level sensor was defective, so unplugging it at the tank resolved that. That should clear your lite. If it doesn't it may be a prob. in the dash, but doubt it.
The fuel sounds like the sending unit. Check the connections first make sure they aren't corroded. To rule out the dash, disconnect the lead from the sender, connect a variable resistor, 0-200 or something in that range. Drive your gauge to varify if it is the gauge or sender. Also, disconnecting the sender should drive the gauge hard zero.
Just some ideas to work with. I'm claiming this is all correct.
The fuel sounds like the sending unit. Check the connections first make sure they aren't corroded. To rule out the dash, disconnect the lead from the sender, connect a variable resistor, 0-200 or something in that range. Drive your gauge to varify if it is the gauge or sender. Also, disconnecting the sender should drive the gauge hard zero.
Just some ideas to work with. I'm claiming this is all correct.
