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As I stated in my reply to, Ranger Woes...need serious help; I have a 94 ranger with almost 129,000 on my 2.3L, 5speed manual tranny, ext cab, a/c, p/s. Also, has four bfg 235's on 15" rims. The biggest question and problem I'm having is, with my fuel pump (or alarm) not sure. If I go down the street to the store and go in, get something and come back out, sometimes the truck won't start, or It will do one of two things; start and idle for a few seconds then die, or go about half a mile or so and die. I have pinpointed this to the fuel pump, mainly cause I when I get in the truck I turn the key to on position and listen for the fuel pump to kick in. I can't say when it's gonna happen. Sometimes it does it and sometimes don't. Their is also a alarm on the truck, (read in manual that it has a second anti-theft device that shuts off the fuel pump, if you stall the truck) then I have to sit for a minute or two and the truck will start up. What could be the cause and could it be fixed easily?
Sorry for having my first post so long. But I love FORD's
Check and see if you have power at the pump when this happens, if you don't then I would think it's the FP relay, if you do then the pump. The inertia switch shuts off the pump if you are in an accident and must be manually reset.
I have a 94 Ranger with the 2.3 liter and stick just like you. I recently experienced the same problem. Often on hot days after driving the truck it wouldn't start right away. Things acting up when hot often point to an electrical problem. The first thing I did was replace the fuel pump relay (easy to get to- inside the fuse box located in the engine compart on the driver's side wheel well). Mine had heat scoring and it was only about $7 for a new one. This is a cheap and easy try before digging into the fuel pump. Mine worked for about a month and then the problem of no starting came back. I then checked for voltage at the inertia switch (passanger side under top of carpet) when the problem was happening. It was getting voltage. Checking for voltage at the fuel pump it's self required dropping the tank down...and at that point you might as well replace the pump since you've done most of the hard work...so I wouldn't bother with trying that unless you plan to just replace the pump. Anyway, another way to tell if it's the fuel pump is to carry around a can of starting fluid and a screwdriver. When you experience the problem disconnect the throttle body air intake hose at the intake manifold and spray some starting fluid down it (open the throttle body plate by hand using the level on the throttle linkage under the black plastic protective cover). Now try starting the truck. If it runs rough and then smoothes out then the fuel pump is going bad and finally getting going on it's own. If the engine stalls after running out of starting fluid it also points to the pump because the motor will run but isn't getting fuel. You can also put a pressure gage on the fuel rail and check for proper fuel pressure. Sometimes it's the pressure regulator found on the fuel rail. Also make sure you've got a fuel filter on with less than 20,000 miles (cheap) before tackeling the fuel pump. It isn't hard to do, just a little akward at dropping the tank. The old pump comes out easy and the new one goes in easy too. Usually the pump it's self hasn't failed but instead the electrical connector on it rots out. The tank has a raised collar around the fuel pump which likes to collect dirt. Mine had about an inch of dirt piled on it which worked it's way into the harness and eat away the contacts. Luckily the truck side of the harness was still good...spray that with some contact cleaner. While you've got the tank apart it's a good idea to sand down and paint the tank straps with some rust killing primer, as well as the truck body above the tank. Any other questions just ask. PS- Remember to release the pressure in the fuel system by disconnecting the inertia switch, unscrewing the gas cap, and cranking the motor a few seconds.