Codes
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86
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From: Olalla, WA
Codes
I have a 93 Ranger 4x4 with 4.0 and 5-speed. I normally run regular unleaded fuel, and get decent mileage - about 18 to 20 mpg. It does ping a bit on the hills or when accelerating in to high a gear....
Driving home from work the other nite, the Check Engine Light went on, and it started pinging hard. I was driving about 65 on a level freeway at the time. Then the light went out and it startd running better, but it went on and off several more times. Engine wasn't hot - I'd only gone about 10 miles, mostly on the level or downhill.
Any idea what might have caused this?
If I took it in now to the dealer, would they be able to pull the codes off to see what happened?
Driving home from work the other nite, the Check Engine Light went on, and it started pinging hard. I was driving about 65 on a level freeway at the time. Then the light went out and it startd running better, but it went on and off several more times. Engine wasn't hot - I'd only gone about 10 miles, mostly on the level or downhill.
Any idea what might have caused this?
If I took it in now to the dealer, would they be able to pull the codes off to see what happened?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
If there is a code stored in continuous memory, it is saved for something like 50 engine run cycles. Why not have a look at the technical information at the top of this forum regarding how to pull codes, pull it, and post it here. You don't need a code scanner for your rig in order to pull codes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
It' EEC-IV and it's found under the emissions section. Here's the url: http://fords.kilonet.org/ken00/EECIVQT.pdf
Note that you can also use the CEL rather than a scanner or voltmeter. Many parts stores will pull them for free in anticipation of your buying parts from them.
Note that you can also use the CEL rather than a scanner or voltmeter. Many parts stores will pull them for free in anticipation of your buying parts from them.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86
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From: Olalla, WA
Thanks for the link to the tech, Cowboy Billy - something to read tonite!
I just tried at my local AutoZone - they just insist that the Check Engine Lite must be on - so guess I might have to get my own checker?? I don't have a decent Multimeter....
I just tried at my local AutoZone - they just insist that the Check Engine Lite must be on - so guess I might have to get my own checker?? I don't have a decent Multimeter....
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 724
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From: Cypress, CA
I also have a '93 and you do not need a multi-meter. On the firewall side of the battery box is your computer connection. There are two plugs inside - one with multiple sockets and one with a single socket.
Check the forum here but as I recall I grounded the single (white) connector to the battery, turned the key on - not running - and the CEL will flash - e.g. one flash is a #1, 2 flashes is a #2 and so on with pauses inbetween the various codes.
There is a procedure in this site on how to do this because that is where I learned how to do this. Once you have the code number post it here and someone can pass along the pinpoint tests to help you solve the problem.
Good luck to you.
Russ
Check the forum here but as I recall I grounded the single (white) connector to the battery, turned the key on - not running - and the CEL will flash - e.g. one flash is a #1, 2 flashes is a #2 and so on with pauses inbetween the various codes.
There is a procedure in this site on how to do this because that is where I learned how to do this. Once you have the code number post it here and someone can pass along the pinpoint tests to help you solve the problem.
Good luck to you.
Russ
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Olalla, WA
Thanks for all the help - have to see if I can figure that out the next non-rainy day we have...
Do you recall the link for the procedure - some are a bit hard to find unless you know the title!
Do you recall the link for the procedure - some are a bit hard to find unless you know the title!
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 724
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From: Cypress, CA
Scrambled through some of my notes and found it: FordFuelInjection.com - how to run a self test.
The blinks of the CEL do go by fast so be ready. This process does work.
Hope this helps some more.
Russ
The blinks of the CEL do go by fast so be ready. This process does work.
Hope this helps some more.
Russ
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by modeltford
Thanks for the link to the tech, Cowboy Billy - something to read tonite!
I just tried at my local AutoZone - they just insist that the Check Engine Lite must be on - so guess I might have to get my own checker?? I don't have a decent Multimeter....
I just tried at my local AutoZone - they just insist that the Check Engine Lite must be on - so guess I might have to get my own checker?? I don't have a decent Multimeter....
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Nov 2, 2004 at 01:23 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 478
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From: ut
For what it's worth...you don't need a good volt meter. But you do need an "analog" meter so you can see the needle sweeps easier. As was mentioned...the codes come fast. You might need to run the tests more than once to catch everything.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Olalla, WA
That's a great site - thanks Russ! Lots of info - and not afraid to share for free! Hopefully I can work on this Saturday! In the mean time, I have a LOT to read!!
AutoZone has a sign outside advertising they will do "free" code checks - but in legaleze-size type says ONLY with CEL on! Obviously they either don't have a clue, or the lawyers are in charge!!!!
I really like this little truck, just think I prefer the old way of doing things - Carbs, points, no electronics, LEADED gas....it was EASY to figure out what was wrong, and even easier top fix!!! You could carry a cap, rotor, points, condensor, and a set of plugs in your tool box, and replace easily when you had to! Sure, wasn't quite as efficient, but if you bought quality, lasted a long time!! IMHO
AutoZone has a sign outside advertising they will do "free" code checks - but in legaleze-size type says ONLY with CEL on! Obviously they either don't have a clue, or the lawyers are in charge!!!!
I really like this little truck, just think I prefer the old way of doing things - Carbs, points, no electronics, LEADED gas....it was EASY to figure out what was wrong, and even easier top fix!!! You could carry a cap, rotor, points, condensor, and a set of plugs in your tool box, and replace easily when you had to! Sure, wasn't quite as efficient, but if you bought quality, lasted a long time!! IMHO
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 76
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From: Mobile, AL
Originally Posted by modeltford
I really like this little truck, just think I prefer the old way of doing things - Carbs, points, no electronics, LEADED gas....it was EASY to figure out what was wrong, and even easier top fix!!! You could carry a cap, rotor, points, condensor, and a set of plugs in your tool box, and replace easily when you had to! Sure, wasn't quite as efficient, but if you bought quality, lasted a long time!! IMHO
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 2
From: Eastern WA
On the other hand, the old way required way more maintenance and, without EFI, was not able to produce decent power while passing emissions. Welcome to the world of 100,000 miles between tunups 
.
.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 724
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From: Cypress, CA
Model T: I agree with you to a point (no pun intended). When the cars/trucks started going electronic I was almost overwhelmed. Once one becomes accustomed to the code analyzers the new way is much simpler.
Something to think about is investing in a scanner - like an Actron 9145 (no I am not endorsing any one brand) with the necessary cables to fit each of your vehicles. This type of set-up will digitally provide the codes KOEO, KOER and Stored, as well as the pin-point tests to find the part that is misbehaving. As an example, if you were to get a code P0340 - Cylinder Identification missing - you could use your analyzer to determine if indeed you are receiving signals from the Camshaft Position Sensor, the Crankshaft Position Sensor and other items that contribute to that function. The one that is not working is probably the problem. It may be only a bad connection but you found it. You are using technology to aid in finding the problem. It does not take long to become rather comfortable with this equipment.
Just something to think about.
Russ
Something to think about is investing in a scanner - like an Actron 9145 (no I am not endorsing any one brand) with the necessary cables to fit each of your vehicles. This type of set-up will digitally provide the codes KOEO, KOER and Stored, as well as the pin-point tests to find the part that is misbehaving. As an example, if you were to get a code P0340 - Cylinder Identification missing - you could use your analyzer to determine if indeed you are receiving signals from the Camshaft Position Sensor, the Crankshaft Position Sensor and other items that contribute to that function. The one that is not working is probably the problem. It may be only a bad connection but you found it. You are using technology to aid in finding the problem. It does not take long to become rather comfortable with this equipment.
Just something to think about.
Russ