K everyone, the time has come, i will be picking up the disc brake equiped rear end out of a late 70's lincoln. I will be pulling all of the brake conponents from the lincoln, the MC, proportioning valve, and i have ordered an adjustable Wilwood one from summit as well and it should be here this friday or monday, and the e-brake cable, the black box thingy on the frame if it has it (an early form of abs). So tomorrow i'm off to the wreckers and once i get everything washed off and taken apart i will post pictures up.

Hopefully this system should improve my brake preformance (along with the new rotrs from sumit I plan on ordering) a good bit considering the weight difference between the lincoln and my flare, which is a good 1000lbs)

 

Will be an interesting conversion. Might I add you'll probably want the master cylinder as well? Likely to be a difference in pressure applications in regards to the front and rear disc brakes set-up as opposed to front disc and rear drum set-up you currently have. Had to change MC's when I did a front disk conversion on a 69 F100, as well as proportioning valve. Just a thought.

 

Will i got everything pulled out and back in my dad's shop. Anyway i grabbed the MC and brake proportionig valve as well, and i also got the brake lines from the mc to the valve. Anyway i just finshed taling the one side apart and i have 2 words, BOLT IN. I measured everything, the only difference in the rotors is the center on a ford truck rotor is a 1/4" larger in diameter then the lincoln, and this difference can be compensated using machine washers to space the caliper brakets out so the calipers won't rub on the rotors. Then the only thing that involves some welding is welding a bracket to hold the e-brake cable on the axle, i believe i should be able to grind the old bracket, clean it up then reweld it to my housing. But everything else will bolt right up to my truck. The calipers on the lincoln are the same as the front rotors with the exception of the e-brake setup on the piston side of the caliper. The MC, although i couldn't find the old one of my flareside to compare, but as far as i can remember it should bolt up to my truck, and because i need a new brake booster, it will be easy to modify either or to make them work together.

I will post pictures up later tonight.

 

I got the pictures up loaded and here they are with a brief description to:



Its to bad that someone took the wheels off of the car and left the rearend sitting in the dirt.



Heres a good view of the caliper bracket. The front calipers of one of these years of truck actually fits in this bracket, it is quite similar to the front caliper mounting bracket in overall shape.



This pictures shows that the bearing retainers are the same and the distance between the wheel mounting surface and the mounting flange for the bearing retainer.



This shows the e-brake cable. It will be easy to make the current cable on my pickup work with the ones on shown here, and this also shows what mount needs to be welded on for the e-bake to work.



The caliper and rotor on the left are the ones from the lincoln and the ones on the left are from an early 80's 4x4, it gives you an idea on how very very similar the rotors and calipers are.



This shows the height difference between the rotors, its about a 1/4", and the rotos are the same in every other demision other than wear as the roto on the right was almost new (thats the one from the truck)



This is the proportioning valve and the MC from the lincoln, the mc from the lincoln is just a little bigger than that from a ford truck.

 

I got some bad news today after looking everything over. I found that the rotors of the front of a ford truck won't fit over the rear wheel mount flange on the axle, and its going to take some messing around to get the lines to work cause i need to use a rubber brake line instead of a steel line so that i don't have to take the brake line off everytime i need to change the pads. Anyone have any ideas on getting the brake lines just right?

But to fix the axles flange i have a buddy with a metal lathe and he said that he can turn down the flange to fit the rotors, and the rotors only need to be turned down about a 1/4 of an inch but probably 3/8 so that the rotor can be taken off when its packed with dirt and rust.