Rusted cabs..
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
Rusted cabs..
I was looking at a 70 f-250 4x4 and a 69 f-250 2x4....for about 800 each and the only real problem is that both cabs are rusting out in the rain gutters above the doors. My question is has anyone tried to repair this area or is it not worth the time? Myself, looking at it from a metal smith's standpoint I dont like the idea it sounds like it is way too much work.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
I had this problem with my 69. I'm no metal worker so I punted and found another truck to Swap the cab (actually the entire body).
Like I said, I'm not metal worker. but, I just couldn't see how repairing that area would be easier than a cab swap. It just has too much shape to it in my opinion. I figure it has to cost at least $500-$1000 or more to do that right. And you should be able to find another cab for that. Of course, it's hard to move a cab. So I got a whole truck that happened to have AC as well, then started swapping parts. Now, I've got the best of both trucks. This is not the cheap route. But I'm starting to sell off some of the leftover parts.
Like I said, I'm not metal worker. but, I just couldn't see how repairing that area would be easier than a cab swap. It just has too much shape to it in my opinion. I figure it has to cost at least $500-$1000 or more to do that right. And you should be able to find another cab for that. Of course, it's hard to move a cab. So I got a whole truck that happened to have AC as well, then started swapping parts. Now, I've got the best of both trucks. This is not the cheap route. But I'm starting to sell off some of the leftover parts.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
Thats what i was thinking I just didnt want to give up that 4x4 chassis...lol Or the axles on either truck for that matter. I think i'll just hold out and apply that money to my 68 which is NOT rusting out.
New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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If you are going to be into the Ford truck hobby, I realized a long time ago that a small 110volt Mig welder is well worth every penny you pay for one. Get one that uses the gas and .023 welding wire. Use Stargon Gas for best results. I have owned one for about 10 years now and found it to be indespensable for repairing rusted out trucks. You can be welding in 2-3 days even if you have no idea about what you are doing, I am speaking from experience. The main thing is not to get the metal too hot, which can be done by starting and stopping.
But not to get int welding tech here.
My old 69 shortbed had the same problem. I cut out the rusted portion, replaced them with new metal, and migged them in place, ground smooth and a little bondo to finish it off. Took me all of about 3 hours.
You can also pay for your welder by doing jobs for others who have rust problems. A set of floor pans in a 70 Mustang and front cab mounts on a 73 F100 paid for mine.
But not to get int welding tech here.
My old 69 shortbed had the same problem. I cut out the rusted portion, replaced them with new metal, and migged them in place, ground smooth and a little bondo to finish it off. Took me all of about 3 hours.
You can also pay for your welder by doing jobs for others who have rust problems. A set of floor pans in a 70 Mustang and front cab mounts on a 73 F100 paid for mine.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
these cabs were rusted out beyond bondo you would have to replace the metal and one of them was rusted right up to the windsheild rubber so i dont know if it is salvagable....damn good lookin truck though.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 13
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From: Winnemucca, NV
My 72 F-250 (refuge from a reno NV pawn shop.) was like swiss cheese above the windshield as the windshield is held in with a black rubber gasket I took the cheap & easy route and used black roof (shingle) sealer to cover the area: U have to looke for it before it is noticed. I plan on repairing the lower body and bed rusted thru spots with welded in work as recommended by 62724ever
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
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From: Montana
Im thinking about cutting the rain gutters off of my 68 and smoothing them there just a stupid idea anyways....."lets put gutters to collect water so it will be all rusty in 30 years"!
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
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most drip rails rot above the windshield, im cutting the rails off in the front of mine and only leaving them above the doors. look at a mid 70s to late 80s chevy they have the mouldings above the door only and are usually just screwed on take some off at the wreckers and bend em around your own door if your gutter is rotted above the door, they even have chrome trim on them. you could either weld or screw them on. as far as a mousture barrier use all metal aluma-fill its practically bondo with aluminum filings in it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,191
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From: USA
The cab is the reason I sent my 1970 to the junkyard..... It needed alot of work... and the bed was rusty too... One thing after finding my 1984 RUST FREE Bronco XLT is I am not a fan of doing MAJOR body work....
My 1970 was rust all along the rain gutter about the windshield.... it was rusting from the inside out!
I took all the good parts off of the 70 before sending it away and sold most of them
My 1970 was rust all along the rain gutter about the windshield.... it was rusting from the inside out!
I took all the good parts off of the 70 before sending it away and sold most of them