Transmission fitting?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Texas
Transmission fitting?
What transmission options do I have for a 66 F100?
Right now its a 3 on the tree, and I would like to stay with colum shift, but the gear ratios are bad. 3rd gear is ok, the engine is at a good rpm for the speed on the highway, but first and reverse are way to high. its like loosing 1st and 5th on a normal transmission.
are there other colum shift transmissions out there, and if so, are any of them geared better that the one I have?
I thought of regearing the rear end, but that would mean 3rd gear was the problem, instead of 1st
Right now its a 3 on the tree, and I would like to stay with colum shift, but the gear ratios are bad. 3rd gear is ok, the engine is at a good rpm for the speed on the highway, but first and reverse are way to high. its like loosing 1st and 5th on a normal transmission.
are there other colum shift transmissions out there, and if so, are any of them geared better that the one I have?
I thought of regearing the rear end, but that would mean 3rd gear was the problem, instead of 1st
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Connecticut
You have 4 choices. A Ford 3 speed Std., Ford LD, Ford MD and a Warner T85 O/drive. There's a tag on your tranny that has a series of letters or look on you I D plate under "trans", post it and I can tell you which you have. I may be easier to locate a 9" chuck with a different ratio and swap it. Much cheaper also.
Barry
Barry
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From: Texas
I haven't found a tag, but I'll keep looking, it has an inch of greasy road grime caked to ir, stuck on like Tar.
As for replacing the 9", if I go to lower gears, then 3rd gear will be too low.
Idle 800rpm does 10 miles an hour in first, Idealy that should be less than 5mph, so that drastic of a 9" rear-gear reduction would mean I was doing 5000rpm in top gear at 60.
Is there a way to tell visualy which of the transmissions I have? and were would the tag be? I have been scraping it clean with a putty knife, (slow job) I can start scraping aroud that area next
As for replacing the 9", if I go to lower gears, then 3rd gear will be too low.
Idle 800rpm does 10 miles an hour in first, Idealy that should be less than 5mph, so that drastic of a 9" rear-gear reduction would mean I was doing 5000rpm in top gear at 60.
Is there a way to tell visualy which of the transmissions I have? and were would the tag be? I have been scraping it clean with a putty knife, (slow job) I can start scraping aroud that area next
Last edited by 66beater; Oct 24, 2004 at 08:59 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Texas
cool, thank you. that will save me alot of grease scraping. It will be worth replacing this thing Just to avoid cleaning it. 
So then, which of the other three listed is more likely to have a lower 1st gear, and what did it come in?
So then, which of the other three listed is more likely to have a lower 1st gear, and what did it come in?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
You might want to consider going to a 4-speed. 4th gear has the same 1:1 ratio (as do all transmissions except overdrive gear) but with a low 1st gear.
I think though, it would be best to start back at the beginning.
What engine do you have?
What is your rear axle ratio?
this info will help us figure out what you can best do. I rather suspect your truck may have a taller rear end ratio than what it came with from the factory, as per your description.
I think though, it would be best to start back at the beginning.
What engine do you have?
What is your rear axle ratio?
this info will help us figure out what you can best do. I rather suspect your truck may have a taller rear end ratio than what it came with from the factory, as per your description.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
LOok at the I D plate on the drivers door and post the info here. We can decipher it and tell you the tranny, rear end that it is supposed to have, trim, etc...... That way you don't have to crawl under there. Like the above post said, you might want to go to a 4 speed, say a T98 or NP 435. A very easy swap, almost a drop in.
Barry
Barry
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From: Texas
Alright, the ID plate reads..
Vin f10yd*****
WB 129
model f100
body d81
trans c17
GVW 5000
RPM 61
VW 4000
BHP 172
4 speed would give me a lower first, but I don't want to lose the colum shift for it. I would rather keep a 3 speed and the colum shift, but get a better 1st gear. as for the rear axle, it is high, but 3rd gear is right were I want it to be for the highway.
As for the rest of the truck's specs, 352 bored to 360. stock cam logs, 2bbl autolite carb.
Vin f10yd*****
WB 129
model f100
body d81
trans c17
GVW 5000
RPM 61
VW 4000
BHP 172
4 speed would give me a lower first, but I don't want to lose the colum shift for it. I would rather keep a 3 speed and the colum shift, but get a better 1st gear. as for the rear axle, it is high, but 3rd gear is right were I want it to be for the highway.
As for the rest of the truck's specs, 352 bored to 360. stock cam logs, 2bbl autolite carb.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Connecticut
Here's what I could figure out for you:
F10= F-100 2wd
Y= Diesel, but your truck is either a 240/300 or 352 recheck your tag again for me and post it.
D= Dallas assembly plant
W/base= 129 inches
Model= F100 series
D81= "D" is interior trim which is: Medium Beige crush vinyl with medium beige leeds
pattern woven plastic
"81" is Standard cab series
Trans code "C"= 3 speed column shift
Rear axle code "17" = 3.25 ratio, 9 inch rear end
GVW= 5000lbs
RPM= 4000 is rpm at which H/power is figured.
HP= 172
DSO =61, Dallas Sales district
VW= Medium blue exterior
Recheck the Vin off the plate. The 3rd letter "Y" is incorrect. This is the engine code. I don't think your truck would have a diesel engine as that code letter implies.
Barry
F10= F-100 2wd
Y= Diesel, but your truck is either a 240/300 or 352 recheck your tag again for me and post it.
D= Dallas assembly plant
W/base= 129 inches
Model= F100 series
D81= "D" is interior trim which is: Medium Beige crush vinyl with medium beige leeds
pattern woven plastic
"81" is Standard cab series
Trans code "C"= 3 speed column shift
Rear axle code "17" = 3.25 ratio, 9 inch rear end
GVW= 5000lbs
RPM= 4000 is rpm at which H/power is figured.
HP= 172
DSO =61, Dallas Sales district
VW= Medium blue exterior
Recheck the Vin off the plate. The 3rd letter "Y" is incorrect. This is the engine code. I don't think your truck would have a diesel engine as that code letter implies.
Barry
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From: Texas
I rechecked, and it is a Y. The truck as original was white, custom cab, blue interior. If the pain't isn't original, it was takien off the frame to be painted, (same color under screws, bolts, body mounts) and it's a very old paint job.
I think the door tag may not match the truck. It does match the title. Is there a VIN number anywere on the frame?
I think the door tag may not match the truck. It does match the title. Is there a VIN number anywere on the frame?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,447
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From: Littleton, CO
It would help to have the ***** (serial number) becasue the "Y" engine code would be correct for a 67 352 or a 68-72 360 motor. Or the "yd' could be transposed and it is a "dy" or 352 motor assembly plant Wixom, Michigan... VIN is also stamped in the top of the passenger side frame rail between the front axle and the radiator core.
--Mike
--Mike