Sound Deadening
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 42
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From: Seattle Washington
Sound Deadening
Hi All,
I am looking into adding a little sound deading inside the cab of my '55. I have seen acoustical rubber sheeting by a company called CAE for $75 for 14 square feet. I can't afford that, kinda way out of my price range, to do the whole cab.
I have found a rubber sheeting company that is willing to do single rolls, only my problem is that I don't know what to ask for. Does butyl rubber sheeting ring a bell? The salesman who was willing to talk to me (one company promptly hung up), stated that they special ordered sound deading material - 200 roll minimum, 12 week order. He was willing, however, to sell me a single roll of anything that they have on hand. Just don't know what to ask for. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Jon
I am looking into adding a little sound deading inside the cab of my '55. I have seen acoustical rubber sheeting by a company called CAE for $75 for 14 square feet. I can't afford that, kinda way out of my price range, to do the whole cab.
I have found a rubber sheeting company that is willing to do single rolls, only my problem is that I don't know what to ask for. Does butyl rubber sheeting ring a bell? The salesman who was willing to talk to me (one company promptly hung up), stated that they special ordered sound deading material - 200 roll minimum, 12 week order. He was willing, however, to sell me a single roll of anything that they have on hand. Just don't know what to ask for. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Jon
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 29
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Sound Deadening
Last month I redid my cab floor (1956 F100) with Dynamat Extreme. Did floor and up the firewall. I then placed fiberglass pading (from mid-fifties) on top of this. This reduced the sound and heat significantly. It's a bit a work (time consuming but simple) but well worth it.
I got the idea from http://classictrucksweb.com/tech/0409cl_oldsc/. Read this article. I bought my Dynamat at a local store that sells sound systems.
Good Luck
TM in California
I got the idea from http://classictrucksweb.com/tech/0409cl_oldsc/. Read this article. I bought my Dynamat at a local store that sells sound systems.
Good Luck
TM in California
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
I seem to remember this topic on a thread some weeks ago and in that one, one of the folks said they used "water heater insulation" from Home Depot at $10/roll to do the insulation job. Anybody else remember that?
I haven't gotten to that place on my truck yet, but thought it was a heck of a good idea. Like Jacques, the prices I have seen on most of these sound/heat insulation systems is pretty pricy.
I haven't gotten to that place on my truck yet, but thought it was a heck of a good idea. Like Jacques, the prices I have seen on most of these sound/heat insulation systems is pretty pricy.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver Island
There's a black rubbery sheet that is used for roofing; I think one brand is called "Ice Guard". That's supposed to work about as well as Dynamat for damping panel vibrations. Liquid roofing patch compound ought to work too, if it dries fast enough and doesn't stink the cab out. For insulation, there's stuff that looks something like bubble wrap and has foil on one or both sides. I'm thinking of trying that on my van. Or, maybe some kind of closed-cell foam sheet. And finally, it has to help to have as many surfaces as possible covered with stuff like carpet or a soft headliner to reduce the sound echoing around in the cab.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 153
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From: northeast texas
I used the foil backed (both sides) bubble wrap to insulate the roof on my
60. The lumber yard where I bought it had 2 foot wide and 4 foot wide rolls
of and sold it by the foot. I used the 4 foot wide on my roof and was able
to slide it in between the roof and the center brace without cutting it.
Glued it in with contact cement and used aluminum tape to seal the butt
joints. This stuff is easy to work with. You can cut it and piece it together
with the aluminum tape. I was pleased with the results.
jt
60. The lumber yard where I bought it had 2 foot wide and 4 foot wide rolls
of and sold it by the foot. I used the 4 foot wide on my roof and was able
to slide it in between the roof and the center brace without cutting it.
Glued it in with contact cement and used aluminum tape to seal the butt
joints. This stuff is easy to work with. You can cut it and piece it together
with the aluminum tape. I was pleased with the results.
jt
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale, Florida
I think that the purpose made sound deadening products are going to do the best job. Having said that I'll quickly add that I don't plan to use them unless I suddenly come into some serious cash. You have to consider what you'll use the truck for and if the absolute best sound reduction is worth your hard earned truck bucks.
For me - since truck bucks are getting harder to come by - I'll be going the water heater and roofer materials route and I believe that will be quite good enough. I have local experience with a friend who went that route with a 58 C___y Apache (350/350 with loud pipes). I've been in the truck at speed before and after the sound control efforts and the results were quite acceptable. I'd rather spend the couple hundred bucks saved on getting my beast back on the road!
Bottom line - you pays the money and you takes your pick! I pick cheap and I guess the idea that there are some things that you can still accomplish being creative and using local stuff appeals to me too. Maybe I'm just a little bit old school but that's my two cents!
Leaks
For me - since truck bucks are getting harder to come by - I'll be going the water heater and roofer materials route and I believe that will be quite good enough. I have local experience with a friend who went that route with a 58 C___y Apache (350/350 with loud pipes). I've been in the truck at speed before and after the sound control efforts and the results were quite acceptable. I'd rather spend the couple hundred bucks saved on getting my beast back on the road!
Bottom line - you pays the money and you takes your pick! I pick cheap and I guess the idea that there are some things that you can still accomplish being creative and using local stuff appeals to me too. Maybe I'm just a little bit old school but that's my two cents!
Leaks
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
I have sprayed on some of that rust preventing undercoating under the hood, fenders, floorboards, and the inside of the roof then re-installed the carpet and headliner. Makes a world of differance in the noise level! For good measure I did two coats.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Minnesota
Anybody try the bedliner material that is liquid and you roll or spray on? I have a Jeep Wrangler and have seen articles on this. I have been thinking of using this on the interior top to bottom and not using any of the cardboard interior pieces.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 628
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From: High Park, Toronto
Jobber Line Duraliner
Originally Posted by Christopher2
Anybody try the bedliner material that is liquid and you roll or spray on? I have a Jeep Wrangler and have seen articles on this. I have been thinking of using this on the interior top to bottom and not using any of the cardboard interior pieces.
I'll also be using some of the felt type deadner and a roll of the foil backed bubble type stuff thta I got on sale.
Price is an issue for me as well so I often find if you go to wholesalers of roofing, carpeting, upholstery etc instead of "purpose built trade names" you can often get some great deals!
It takes a little longer and some creative lateral thinking but that's what works for me, with my champagne taste and beer budget 
GW [n the Dixie Dance Kings]
New User
Joined: Oct 2004
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I know that the stuff they sell at the Home Depot for water heaters is an insulation material that is a random woven fiber insulation backed by mylar bubble isulation. The same stuff is actually sold in my british sports car catalogues for heat and noise control. Which brings up a specific point to the issue... using materials such as underbody coatings have a greater affect in stopping noise generation from larger panels that are vibrating, like large fenders you might find on a Ford Truck, or may be transfering noise generation from engines or exhaust, like fire walls and floors. The same is true for the self adhesive rubber sheeting. My Toyota pickup, as do many others, has a material just like that ice blocking material mentioned ealier in the post. If you're trying to dampen the noise that has entered the cab then I would use the different soft insulation items. There is also a material sold at home stores usually in the insulation dept. that resembles huge celotex sheeting, a densely compressed fiber board that may work too and would still be affordable.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
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From: Michigan
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
I seem to remember this topic on a thread some weeks ago and in that one, one of the folks said they used "water heater insulation" from Home Depot at $10/roll to do the insulation job. Anybody else remember that?
Fred K.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
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From: Valley Center, CA
I used the two-sided foil bubble rap from home depot on the floor and the rear of the cab. I also cut it to fit under the firewall cover. For the roof, I used the insulation from the Rod Doors headliner. It is a 1/2" thick woven material with a foil on one side. For the doors, I sprayed under coating inside. The truck is quiet and keeps out the heat pretty well. I'm sure that the heavy aftermarket rubber material would work better, but the cost is outasite. Good luck, John
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