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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 10:13 PM
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Exclamation any thoughts on idle

My 95 302 Has Some Issues With Idle. I Posted Last Week About A 95 Not Running Right But Didn't Get Many Replies. Since Then I Have Replaced The Ign. Module Which Didn't Help. Now It Has Another Problem. It Is Taking A Few Seconds To Come Off Idle When I Release The Pedal Or Come To A Stop. I Drained The Battery The Other Night On Acc. And After I Jumped It This Problem Started Happening, Mon. Morning. I Went To My Mech. We Put It On The Scanner And Only 2 Codes Came Up. One About The Knock Sensor And Code 411. Something About The Iac And Idle. I Repaced The Iac And Nothing. I Am Getting So Tired Of This. I Have Been Dealing With On And Off Driving Problems For 2 Yrs. Now. I Have Replaced Everything Ign. Related And Have Replaced Any Sensors That Have Shown Up On The Scanner. What Am I Missing. Check Out My First Post ,and Let Me Know If You Have Any Clues. I Don't Want To Put The Beast Down
 
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 11:57 PM
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I would try cleaning every ground connection, a dirty ground can drive you nuts. A friend had a Taurus that would just stop running for no apparent reason, fixed all codes, Ford couldn't find the problem. Someone told him to clean the grounds and his problems went away. Good Luck
 
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 01:02 AM
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The IAC is vehicle specific to the point where you should need to provide a code from the driver's door to ensure you get the correct IAC when replacing it. If you disconnect the connector to the IAC the engine should just barely run. and eventually (a few seconds later) die completely. If it doesn't do this and still idles well enough to keep running you either have a vacuum leak, stuck open IAC valve, or you are dealing with an improperly adjusted throttle plate stop screw.

If you are unsure as to whether the knock sensor is functioning properly, give the block a smack with a mallet while its running. If the rpm's drop, then the sensor is working. Otherwise, it needs replacing.

Checking and cleaning grounds is a good idea too. While you are at it, check the IAC connection. as well.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 08:21 PM
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could you tell me how many and where the grounds are that i should be checking. The other thing that I should mention is that when the scanner was running the truck, when it went to adjust the idle, the truck wouldn't respond?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 03:06 AM
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The IAC is suspect then. The IAC is the idle control valve and solenoid. If it cannot affect a change in the idle then its either dirty and sticky or just not functioning at all. When you replaced the IAC, did you disconnect the battery for about 5-10 minutes to clear the stored codes in the computer? Then take it for a drive so the PCM can "re-learn" the setup. This is the ONLY idle control. If you are still unsure as to whther the IAC is functioning, try disconnecting it while the truck is idling and at normal operating temperature. If disconnecting it does NOT cause the engine to nearly or completely die, then you may be dealing with dirty/sticky throttle plates and bores or a misadjusted throttle stop screw.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 10:30 PM
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thanks for the tip on disconnecting the batt. I'm gonna try it tommorow. The only problem is , this problem showed up sun. night after i jumped it because i left the lights on that morn.It was running fine on my way to work sun morning.left the lights on ,killed batt and BOOM, idle problem sun night. Confusing?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 12:01 PM
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Not really. When the battery trickles down to nothing, the changes in voltage can confuse the PCM and cause some codes to trigger just beacuase its not getting the correct voltage readings through certain sensors etc. So, the idle problem showing up after a battery drain isn't unlikely at all.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 05:10 PM
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I Dis. The Batt. For About 20 Min. On Sat. Morn. I Also Went Through All The Grounds That I Could Find And Cleaned Their Mounting Points.i Re-connected The Battery Took It Out And Drove It For A While And The Problem Is Still There. In Fact It Is Getting Worse. I Had To Start The Truck 3 Times To Get It To Stay Running This Morning. It Is Not Even Idling High On Start Up. It Also Feels Like Ther Is No Power Either. I Also Sprayed Every Vacuum Connection I Could See With Soapy Water And Nothing. I'm Running Out Of Answers.let Me Know If You Have Any More Suspicions
 
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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Well It's Been A Few Days. Some Things Have Been Corrected But It's Stil Having Problems. We Put It On The Scanner Again After Fixing A Positive Vacuum Problem And When It Ran Through The Run Test It Stil Comes Up As Idling To High And The O2 Sensor Isn't Opening When The Gas Is Applied. The Problem Is That If I Adjust The Idle To Low It Will Barely Run. In N The Truck Idles At About 1000 No Matter What I Adjust The T.b. Screw To And Then When I Put It In D The Idle Drops To About 550 And Has Some Surging. The Other Thing Is That When I Come To A Stop The Idle Stays At 1000-1100 And Then Drops After About 5 Seconds. The T.b. Is New And The Cable Is Fine ,no Play . I Have Also Replaced The 02 Sensor And That Didn't Seem To Help. Could My Pcm Be Bad? I Have Checked Every Ground ,sensor And Everything Else , Incl. Shaking And Pulling Every Wire To The Harnesses And Nothing.the Biggest Thing Is That I Never Get A Check Eng. Light. I Do Have A Chip In It. Could That Keep The Check Light From Coming On Or Showing A Code. Every Thing Else On The Scanner Came Up As Running Fine.
 
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