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1987 ford f150 4.9 efi without ac, with no engine light. I tried to do a self test for trouble codes. But touched the volt meter possitive probe ( to battery poss.) to bare metal then heard a load click from the engine computer area, its by the driver brake pedal. Now it doesn't give codes. All the wires at the ecc work excect the signal/return or ground from all the 7 sensors have to much voltage now about 6 volts should have about 2 volts. and the DLC connector self test output have no voltage now. shoulb be less then 1 volt. I found out three vacuum lines were melt thaTS WHY IT DIDN'T START. FIXED THEM AND IT WILL run for three minutes if i spay starting fluid in the throttle body. What are the caunches i fried the engine computer. Relay tested ok to.
It doesn't sound good. Double check your EEC relay. There should be a group of relays together under the hood, one of them being the fuel pump relay and another being the EEC relay. The EEC relay sends power to the computer and it's systems.
On mine it has two relays on the ecc power relay it has four wires. Red power, blk ground, yellow power ecc and, wht-t blue ignition. Key on all have 12 volts except ground. Do I need to test the fuel pump relay to?
Thats what I thought. Can i test the ECC off the truck? Also I thought i may have a signal return/ground short so i cut the signal return/ ground wire at the engine computer. Then tested for voltage it now has no voltage at the ecc, this must be normal though. Why no voltage it's not really a ground its more of a return??? Then I tried to read codes off the cut sign return wire at the ecc but no codes.
Will it start with a new ecc if my plugs have carbon on them all. Should I bother to clean them off or just buy new ones. Rich plugs were caused by melted vacuum lines, its now repaired.
I was just woundering when I tried to do a self test for codes three different days it was always pegged to the right. Why?? I tried a bulb instead and it stayed on all the time to. I did not press in the clutch. This was before the load click and no more movement of meter needle, or light from bulb. I thought I did just like in the Haines Manual. 87 f150 4.9 efi 4 speed
Thanks, I was using fordfuelinjection.com but I like your site better. I didn't know it had to be in neutral. Did I check my relay correctly. I left the relay in. Back probed three wire for 12 volts. One was ground. The volt meter went to battery ground. Does this tell me that 12 volts is going through the relay?
Power leaving the relay contacts to feed the computer system is red. It should also have a blue fusible link on the red wire. Check for voltage after the fusible link to make sure it's not burnt out.
Also check pin 1 of the computer. It should have a yellow wire going to it with 12 volts on it all the time.
When the EEC relay is pulled in, pins 57 and 37 shouldhave 12 volts.
Pin 20 is ground
Just remember, on most of your computer solenoids, fuel pump relay coil, fuel injectors, etc., the red wires feed 12 volts to these all the time, and the computer grounds the other side to make it activate.
Power leaving the relay contacts to feed the computer system is red. It should also have a blue fusible link on the red wire. Check for voltage after the fusible link to make sure it's not burnt out.
Also check pin 1 of the computer. It should have a yellow wire going to it with 12 volts on it all the time.
When the EEC relay is pulled in, pins 57 and 37 shouldhave 12 volts.
Pin 20 is ground
Just remember, on most of your computer solenoids, fuel pump relay coil, fuel injectors, etc., the red wires feed 12 volts to these all the time, and the computer grounds the other side to make it activate.
Thanks, this is the first time I have worked with a voltage meter. Pin 57 and 37 have 12 volts. I back probed the EEC relay with the relay still in. I got 12 volts at white-bl, red and yellow wires. I tested the relay with the black probe on the meter to battery ground. Do I need to remove the relay to test it for ohms?
If you have 12 volts on the red wire, the relay is working.
Putting the black meter lead on the battery negative is ok, but if you suspect a grounding problem, then you need to put the black meter lead on the suspect spot. For instance, the computer pins. You can put the black meter lead on the sheetmetal part of the truck, and read pins 57 and 37, and get 12 volts. But if you want to check to make sure your ground to the computer is ok, then take these readings with the black meter lead on pin 20. Even though you have 12 volts on the computer, if it does not have a good ground, it will not work. If the wire to pin 20 is broken somewhere, and you put your meter between pin 20 and one of the 12 volt pins, your meter will not read 12 volts as before. Keep this in mind everywhere you check for voltage.
Tested everything like you said above. Every thing has ground and tested ok. Sounds like I need to rebuild my engine computer. Or get a carb to bolt on. LOL