As most of you know by now, I have removed the 302 from my truck. The 393 stroker is gonna be here in 2 weeks. Therefore, it's time to start crackin' as I need that motor in and done hopefully within 3 weeks (as well as the new ZF trans).

Here is a picture of the back part of the EGR system (minus that black plastic box). My truck had 105k miles before pulling the 302. I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and replace all of these parts, or if I can clean them or should I just leave it alone and put it back on the new engine as is. My emissions equipment probably worked before I ripped it off, I'm sure the best option would be to replace it. However, the funds are getting low on the project so I was wondering if I am able to clean these parts of their carbon, or if anyone knows how much these parts cost. Also, what is the name of that black plastic box? It seems full of "stuff" when you hold it in your hand...is it suppose to feel that way....might replace that too. It connects to the metal line going down the frame.




This is a picture of that little black item off the air pump. Is that a part which can be cleaned (what's it called?)?


I also need to replace the classic coffee can. What's the official name for that and does anyone have a part number for it? Also, I couldn't get the EGR unit off my intake. Am I able to buy all of that assembly (the tube, EGR Valve..etc etc) as mine is rusty and I'd rather not use it if I don't have to. I'm not very familiar with this emissions stuff so please give me all info you can.

 

Haven't looked at any of this, but thought it might help. I will see what else I can find too.


http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a2cdd.jsp

 

The rectangular plastic box that is "full of stuff" is the carbon canister. It is filled with activated charcoal that absorbs vapor from the fuel tank when the truck is parked, instead of allowing the tank to be vented to the atmosphere where the volatile organic compounds would get converted by sunlight into photochemical smog. Instead, the canister is purged under command of the computer once the engine is started and somewhat warmed up, and the vapors are burned by the engine.

There isn't much to go wrong with the canister. You should be able to re-use it as long as it isn't cracked. You'll need the cannister purge solenoid and associated vaccuum plumbing. There is no negative effect other than weight of this component and you really should keep it.

The maze of plumbing in the top picture is not part of the EGR, but rather the supplemental air pump. Air is compressed by the pump at the front of the engine and pumped into the exhaust stream and/or the catalytic converter. This helps to oxidize unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide and water. There are check valves to block reversion of exhaust gasses and vaccuum diaphragms that open and close valves to direct the flow of air. If you are going to use a catalytic converter, the air pump must be operational or the converter will be poisoned by too much unburned fuel. If you don't use a converter, the air pump doesn't do all that much for you. Since most of the tubing should be under positive pressure, there shouldn't be any need for extensive cleaning.

The coffee can appears to be just a simple vaccuum reservoir. Just a sealed cylinder and maybe a check valve.

The EGR valve is probably just stuck to the gasket. Take out the two bolts and tap on it lightly with a hammer, it should come off. You can buy the parts from Ford, but if this were my project I'd get the stuff from the "pick your part" serve-yourself junkyard. In most yards, you can pull off the EGR valve, the exhaust tube, the EVP sensor, and a chunk of the wiring as one intact unit, and the yard will charge you something like $7.50 for an "EGR valve". More-or-less the same arrangement was used on Mustangs, Crown Vics, and the various trucks. Truck parts at these junkyards are always a lot more picked over than the cars, but the car parts will work.
Be warned that there may be two kinds of EVP sensors -- I seem to remember a "black one" and "a gray one" but I could be confusing this with the TFI.

The "little black item" off the air pump is some sort of muffler/reservoir/check valve etc. Only compressed air should be flowing through this part of the system, and no cleaning should be needed.

 

That link you gave me was for PCV systems...not EGR systems...

I appriciate the advice. I'll probably keep everything the way it is then, sounds like something that is not really in need of replacement. The only issue I might run into is fitment. The 351 is wider than a 302, so I assume that the connection to the head for that emissions system thing is wider to compensate. I hope I can get that part easily lol.


Anyone with more info on the classic coke can (maybe a part number by chance?)

 

I believe if you look in the menu on the right side of the page there is a link to the EGR system also.

 

Ohh..geez...sry man..didn't see that lol

 

The metal tube with the rubber hoses attached to it is your thermactor tube. If it doesn't have any holes in it then just clean it and re-install it. You wont really notice it anyway since it is connected to the back of both heads. If you decide not to use it, then you will need to get some thermactor plugs; they're about 10 bucks from your local Ford dealer and install them where the ports are on the back of each head.
You can pull all of the emission stuff off, but a chip will be needed to disable the EGR and Thermactor functions in the PCM....it really makes it look a lot cleaner under the hood without all of that stuff. If you remove the air/smog pump then you can run a delete pulley to utilize the stock belt length. Or you can run a short belt and not worry about using a delete pulley at all.
I've seen some modified setups pass emissions without that stuff and a good tune, but if your state is strict with emissions equipment then it might be best to put everything back on.

 

I have no intention of removing it, MA is too strict...just want to make sure it's working properly or is going to work properly for awhile, before I put it back in. Also, fefarms, I got the EGR off the upper intake, I meant the tube on the other end of the EGR that goes under the intake, I can't get it off as it's rusted.

 

Did it all work before you took it off; were you not able to pass the "sniff" test?

 

I don't want to hijack this thread, but you have some good information here. I am running super rich in my bronco, and I have no check engine lights. So, hypothetically, if your check valve was bad, would the motor run rich?

 

The emissions equipment doesn't affect anything with air/fuel ratio.

 

MustangGT221, as to your stuck EGR exhaust tube. When I rebuilt my 302 I took all the metal part to my local machine shop and had them hot tanked. A Hot Tank is basically a hot solvent bath. The machine shop I go to has a huge tank almost like a gaint dishwasher for car parts. Ingenius if you ask me. Anyway it only cast my $25 bucks for all my parts. I can tell that it's a lot easier to put together a engine if all the parts are clean. The hot tank should loosen up that egr tube.

Jim.

PS use lock tight on your lower intank manifold bolts... just learned that one this week.

 

Well, I'm not re-using the stock intake. I'm going to be using an edelbrock intake, and I wanted to remove the EGR pipe off the stock intake, and re-install it on the edelbrock. However, now that I think of it, this won't look very good. Does anyone know where I could get a new one instead?

I've only had 1 sniff test on this truck, which was when I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. I was suppose to have another sniff test back in july, but I've had the truck off the road since august. My 302 had some cylinder damage so it wasn't running right and wouldn't have passed anyway. When I took the sniff test 2 1/2 years ago it passed just fine, I've put about 20k miles on it since I've bought it. The equipment should be just fine, it appears that all I need to do is get the right thermactor tube for a 351 and screw it into that unit and it'll be ok.

 

JustinC, what year is your Bronco? I've got the same problem with my 1990 Bronco 5.0 FI with AOD transmission. SUPER rich, milage down to about 6mpg. No codes. I've changed so much I'm down to guessing it's the catalytic converter(s), a worn camshaft, or the computer itself.

 

i just took all the smog pump off of mine. I need to be sniffed in june but if i fail i know a place that'll "help" me out. Which is cool. But if you have the engine tuned right you can pass without smog equipment. run low octane gas and take out some timing at emissions time. I have my EGR hooked up further down the exhaust at the tube where the smog pump used to send air to before the cats.