Spark Plugs
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Spark Plugs
I tried to change the plugs on this truck for the first time. Sheesh, what a job this is compared to my other vehicle. I could barely get the wires off the plugs on the driver's side, and forget about the wires on the passenger side. I changed one plug. I couldn't get an angle on the other two on the driver's side.
Now I've got a problem. I thought I got the wires back on tight enough. But I've got a misfire somewhere. At one of the wires, I can see some sparking. Does anyone know if there is some kind of tool I should be using to put these wires back on? Or do I just have to reach in and push like hell on the wire that is sparking to get it back on the plug?
Now I've got a problem. I thought I got the wires back on tight enough. But I've got a misfire somewhere. At one of the wires, I can see some sparking. Does anyone know if there is some kind of tool I should be using to put these wires back on? Or do I just have to reach in and push like hell on the wire that is sparking to get it back on the plug?
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: W-S
Spark Plugs
What make model is it? They show some type of spark plug wire wrench in the haynes manual, don't know what it's called or if it's just for takin the wires off. I'd check the parts stores, they carry all sorts of funky tools.
good luck..
good luck..
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 330
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From: W-S
Spark Plugs
I was just at the parts store AVA, and while they do carry a SP wire plyers, they were 20 bucks and their for taking them off. May work putting them on but I'd use a pair of channel locks first (not that you should use plyers at all). As far as getting the plugs out, it sounds like you should pick up a 3/8 u-joint attachment for your socket. Doesn't cost much and I've used mine for a zillion different things.
good luck
good luck
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: penticton canada
Spark Plugs
Hey,
I agree with Ken, you probably hooped a wire when you yanked it off, thus the miss and visible spark. Just a thought, kinda mean, but if you have somebody you're not particularly happy with, ask them to grab hold of the wires one by one, he or she will get a funny look on their face when they grab the one that's broken. rofl. No, really you can disconnect each wire, one at a time and run the truck to find the miss.
As for getting the plugs out, my plug socket has a hex nut on the top that fits a combination wrench. I know the passenger rear plug on my '91 4.0 is a cow. I can barely get the socket on, a swivel extension and ratchet... forget it.
One other thing when you're changing your plugs. I always blow off the base of the plugs with compressed air before removing, then I crack them loose and blow them off again before spinning them out the rest of the way. This will prevent dirt and crud from falling into the cylinder or contaminating the threads. I'd hate to have to put a thread insert into that rear passenger plug hole.
I agree with Ken, you probably hooped a wire when you yanked it off, thus the miss and visible spark. Just a thought, kinda mean, but if you have somebody you're not particularly happy with, ask them to grab hold of the wires one by one, he or she will get a funny look on their face when they grab the one that's broken. rofl. No, really you can disconnect each wire, one at a time and run the truck to find the miss.
As for getting the plugs out, my plug socket has a hex nut on the top that fits a combination wrench. I know the passenger rear plug on my '91 4.0 is a cow. I can barely get the socket on, a swivel extension and ratchet... forget it.
One other thing when you're changing your plugs. I always blow off the base of the plugs with compressed air before removing, then I crack them loose and blow them off again before spinning them out the rest of the way. This will prevent dirt and crud from falling into the cylinder or contaminating the threads. I'd hate to have to put a thread insert into that rear passenger plug hole.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
Spark Plugs
On any 2.9/4.0 engine, Aerostar, Ranger, BII, the best way to change spark plugs, especially on the pass. side (if you have air) is to lift the vehicle until the control arms drop down.
Lift by the control arm, place a jack stand under the front cross member, inbound to the inner pivot of the control arm. Let it down and the control arm should droop all the way and move the tire down.
This gives you an easy shot through the fender and you can put your hands right on the spark plug and wires.
With a 2" body lift you can even change exhaust studs on the exhaust manifold, no sweat. On an Aerostar its a double bonus, you get to lube the upper balljoint at the same time.
Try it, it makes tuneups a breeze on Rangers and BIIs, and much less painful on an Aerostar. Though on an Aerostar, #3 is best done from underneath.
Lift by the control arm, place a jack stand under the front cross member, inbound to the inner pivot of the control arm. Let it down and the control arm should droop all the way and move the tire down.
This gives you an easy shot through the fender and you can put your hands right on the spark plug and wires.
With a 2" body lift you can even change exhaust studs on the exhaust manifold, no sweat. On an Aerostar its a double bonus, you get to lube the upper balljoint at the same time.
Try it, it makes tuneups a breeze on Rangers and BIIs, and much less painful on an Aerostar. Though on an Aerostar, #3 is best done from underneath.
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Spark Plugs
I have a 95 Ranger, 4.0 with air, btw.
Thanks, I'll try that. Do you mean take off the fender itself?
The problem ended up not being the wires at all, but I cracked a plug!!! I figured that when I bought the vehicle used, with 80k miles on it, the dealer would have changed the plugs. Those plugs had to be the originals. I used WD-40 on the plug, and was able to get it out.
Thanks, I'll try that. Do you mean take off the fender itself?
The problem ended up not being the wires at all, but I cracked a plug!!! I figured that when I bought the vehicle used, with 80k miles on it, the dealer would have changed the plugs. Those plugs had to be the originals. I used WD-40 on the plug, and was able to get it out.
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Spark Plugs
>What make model is it? They show some type of spark plug
>wire wrench in the haynes manual, don't know what it's
>called or if it's just for takin the wires off. I'd check
>the parts stores, they carry all sorts of funky tools.
>
>good luck..
95 Ranger, 4.0 engine.
I got a wire puller to grip the wires, but it's just a matter of getting room to manuever. With the air conditioning system, the plugs on the passenger side are a real pain to access.
>wire wrench in the haynes manual, don't know what it's
>called or if it's just for takin the wires off. I'd check
>the parts stores, they carry all sorts of funky tools.
>
>good luck..
95 Ranger, 4.0 engine.
I got a wire puller to grip the wires, but it's just a matter of getting room to manuever. With the air conditioning system, the plugs on the passenger side are a real pain to access.
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Spark Plugs
>You may have damaged the wire when you removed I would
>inspect it carefully, did you put dielectric grease on the
>inside of the boot when you put it back on.
The problem was that I cracked the plug. But what is this dielectric grease inside the boot? Does it help the conductivity or help place the boot on more snugly?
>inspect it carefully, did you put dielectric grease on the
>inside of the boot when you put it back on.
The problem was that I cracked the plug. But what is this dielectric grease inside the boot? Does it help the conductivity or help place the boot on more snugly?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 330
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From: W-S
Spark Plugs
I learned along time ago that you can spend 3 days tryin ta do something, or you can get the right tool and have it done in 5 minutes. For plug you need a padded spark plug socket, a long 3/8 extension and at least a couple short ones. And most of all you need a u-joint attachment, on some a swivel will work. And alot of patience. Way back when I use ta cuss my 84 trans am cause it took an hour plus ta change the plugs. Till I met a guy with a jaguar sjs v12. It had 12 plugs, all right on top straight down the middle. You could touch everyone of em, but you couldn't get a wrench of any kind on em without removing all the fuel injection crap, which took half a day. The poor guy had ta take Polaroid's of the stuff so he could get it back right. After seeing that, the TA was a breeze.
Good luck
Good luck
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
Spark Plugs
> But what is this dielectric grease inside the boot
It prevents moisture from getting in between two surfaces, plus, it helps keep the rubber from adhering to the plug, which makes taking it off much easier.
> Do you mean take off the fender itself?
No, you reach in from the wheel well, between the frame and inner wheel well. This works so fast and well on Aerostars and BIIs, you won't believe it. I had a 97 4.0 Ranger/manual/air. I think on that I just used a short 3/8 swivel to change my plugs. A good spark plug socket is a must, get one with a full rubber around the end of the plug. Not the cheap ones with a vac. hose stuck in the end to make it a spark plug socket.
It prevents moisture from getting in between two surfaces, plus, it helps keep the rubber from adhering to the plug, which makes taking it off much easier.
> Do you mean take off the fender itself?
No, you reach in from the wheel well, between the frame and inner wheel well. This works so fast and well on Aerostars and BIIs, you won't believe it. I had a 97 4.0 Ranger/manual/air. I think on that I just used a short 3/8 swivel to change my plugs. A good spark plug socket is a must, get one with a full rubber around the end of the plug. Not the cheap ones with a vac. hose stuck in the end to make it a spark plug socket.
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