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O.K. my fellow big block fan's here is some of my plan as it is coming togather
Engine 1970 390 in F250 2 wheel drive C-6( may go to 4 speed), 130,000 miles all original never been rebuilt.
1.Heads are C8AE-H, Plan to rebuild, hardenend seats, port work or at least gasket matched.
2.Crank, I would like to use a 428 1U crank from DSC.
3.Edlebrock performer RPM intake.
My questions are,
1. With my heads because they need hardened seats put in, and they are going to be apart anyway, I would like to upgrade the valvetrain DSC has alot of options for roller rockers etc, what would be the best setup for a cam that would take advantage of the extra cubic inch's, what lift and duration.
2. With this crank, what rod's and piston's can I use to get a good comp. ratio(9.1-10.5).
3.What kind of cubic inch's am I looking at around 400 or so.
All suggestions, help, critisism, will be taken into account, this build is with a reasonable budget in mind, and the truck will be used for some towing and hauling(i.e. if someone needed my help) I don't tow anything regularly, and I make the occasional dump run, so mostly a fun street truck, and going to the track now and then.
Thanks,
Jon
You're looking at 410 cubic inches if you dont have it bored over. Most likely you'll want to bore it .030" oversize to clean up the bores and eliminate taper. In fact, I wouldn't even check taper with 130,000 miles, just have the machine shop bore it and be done with it. As always, dont forget a trip to the hot tank for everything not made of aluminum, your new cam bearings, freeze plugs, and oil gallery plugs.
With a .030" overbore you're looking at 416 cubic inches.
DSC has some great parts that's for sure. For the rocker assy's there are a few things.....you can upgrade the rocker shafts to the HD ones or get the end stands and or the steel or billet rocker stands and keep the stock shafts. It's the higher spring pressures that kill them. A little trick I've used in the past if you have the stock aluminum stands is to cut a slot in them like the older Ford iron stands. Just be sure to deburr them after cutting the slot. This gives them a litttle better clamping pressure and works well if your on a budget. I've run up to .600 lift on slotted aluminum stands with no issues. I'd recommend the ends stands though for any really high RPM use. I also keep some of his oversize adjuster screws around for the loose rocker adjusters that wear after time. DCS has some great spring kits just match them to your cam lift specs for the right application. Dennis is great with questions and won't try to sell you high dollar items you don't need. His prices are also very good compared to other suppliers I've used in the past. I go to him for most all my FE needs. G.
That's good info FFR428, at first I was only going to do the intake and headers on my 390, it runs good and never burn's oil, but I thought why not rebuild it, get some more power and have some fun with my old truck.
The only thing I knew about my heads was that you could only run about .500 lift stock, I figured since they are coming off anyhow to get rebuilt, with hardened seat's and some port work, I should upgrade the valve train to run a bigger cam to take advantage of the extra cube's.
I think the stock springs and rockers will only take .530 or so before stuff start's breaking, but since I need new springs any how, might as well upgrade everything else, cuz it would suck to have a nice cam with old springs that float the valves at 4500.
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