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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 06:45 AM
  #46  
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Can those 300 to 500 watt halogine work lights..the ones that you see mounted on stands, be ceiling-mounted by screwing through the bail handle? Would they be safe?

MR
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 07:16 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by MrOldV8
Can those 300 to 500 watt halogine work lights..the ones that you see mounted on stands, be ceiling-mounted by screwing through the bail handle? Would they be safe?

MR
They run hot and use large amounts of electric for a ceiling fixture. I have 3 for walk in lights, instant light. The rest of my shop is low bay which are intended for a 10 to 16 ft ceiling height.
 

Last edited by Maxium4x4; Oct 28, 2004 at 07:18 AM.
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 07:26 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 94F150-408
The biggest thing to keep in mind is that if they are not intended and listed for recessed applications, and for some reason a fire did occur due to a improper installation, your out of luck with getting paid by your insurance carrier. Its always a good idea to install all electrical appliances according to their instructions, and to code. In doing so, you can eliminate the possibility of a fire and having to foot the bill for it...even if the lights dont seem like they're getting that hot.
In electrical speak, "recessed" means a flush mounted light with the fixture stuck in an enclosed area with no heat removal means provided. Would you feel better if I sent you a photo to show you the foot of room around the fixture on all sides? Really, I'm a mechanical engineer, who took 2 years electrical engineering classes before that. I understand heat transfer very well. Perhaps my biggest mistake in presenting this information here was calling them "recessed" which denotes a different meaning to an electrical contractor.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:51 AM
  #49  
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86,

I'm an ME too. I'm with you on the adequacy of your (our) design. He does have a point concerning the insurance though. Anything that's not installed according to instructions is an opportunity for the insurance company to avoid paying a claim, if they really want to.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 10:00 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jjshaw
86,

I'm an ME too. I'm with you on the adequacy of your (our) design. He does have a point concerning the insurance though. Anything that's not installed according to instructions is an opportunity for the insurance company to avoid paying a claim, if they really want to.
Only if the fire investigator linked the fire cause to the lights. If they tried to deny because some shop rags caught fire, I'd have a fun time with them.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 12:23 PM
  #51  
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Depends on where the burden of proof falls, I suppose.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 05:46 PM
  #52  
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86,thats still considered recessed.At least to all juristictions that I know of requiring installations to be as per the NEC and manufacturers instructions. There is no provisions or exceptions for a unlisted high intensity electric discharge lamp to be installed into any sort of a combustible recessed area. You may think that your well under what you would consider the combustion point, but that changes from the heat pyrolizing the wood creating a suprisingly low combustion temperature over time. It's not a interpetation of the definition of recessed, its a matter of code. The installation you are referring to would get written up every time and HID lights WILL catch the attention of any good inspector.
 

Last edited by 94F150-408; Oct 28, 2004 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 10:03 PM
  #53  
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Severely pyrolized wood ignites at around 200F. Normal wood ignites around 500F. I'm still researching what temp wood begins to pyrolize at. I suspect it's at least 300F. I stuck my hand on the wood while the lights had been on for a while tonight. The shop temp was about 50-55F. The surface was slightly warm. I'll check it when I borrow a IR temp gun later this month. I suspect I have nothing to fear. Perhaps If I'm feeling exceptionally overkill, I'll line it with steel or aluminum next summer. You may also have a Northern Kalifornia outlook on this, where this is rural Michigan. We don't worry too much around here about code enforcers. Heck, my barn is more overkill than most of the farmers' barns around here.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 12:24 AM
  #54  
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Nah, it has nothing to do with California....I'm an inspector.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 01:34 AM
  #55  
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My local inspectors have always been a big help to me on projects.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 02:55 AM
  #56  
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94F150, where in Norcal are you at? Bay Area, Capitol, North Valley(chico red bluff area)?




Drive It Like You Stole It!!!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 10:54 AM
  #57  
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f250ranger, I'm in the Central Valley (Stockton Area).
 
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Old Nov 3, 2004 | 09:12 PM
  #58  
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The best fluoresent lights are made by Orion West Lighting, a 3 bulb - 4' fixture puts out 900 watts of light, is instant on at 0 degrees, Electronic ballast (does not buzz - EVER), Never flickers, consumes less than a 100 watt fixture, and is accurate color rendition ta-boot. 1 fixture is 2 - 3 times brighter than a 2 bulb 8' Depot style light,
<!I build shops, garages and horse barns, I have installed 1000's of these lights>
<!and my customers love them (have them in my 80' x 100' x 18' shop). I sell them>
<!for $115 ea (reasonable, compared to the Depot units for what you get) Look >
<!for a dealer in your area, or email me and I'll email you a dealer in your area.>
pcwb
 
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 03:56 AM
  #59  
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That seems to come up with:

http://www.orionlighting.com/
 
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 04:24 AM
  #60  
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94F150-408
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From: Northern California
Too bad Orions web site doesnt give some more info on the lights they sell. Do you have more info on them, pcwb? These sound like some of the SHO tubes, Although your post has me a little confused, you say they are 900 watts, but they consume less than a 100 watt fixture. Do you know what the wattage is on each 4' tube, and how many lumens they produce per tube? Hows the pricing on the fixtures and replacement lamps? Thanks!
 
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