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More than likely, you are seeing a code 33, which is EGR valve opening not detected.
It spits out all of the codes in that section of memory twice. So if that is your only code, you would show it as 3 3 ... 3 3, which could be mistaken for 333.
I do not see any codes for 333 either, so I Would go with 33. Check the codes again and make sure you are reading it correctly.
See list of codes http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.htm Whats your truck doing? Running rough and running rich? You can test the EGR sensor and check the vacuum hose. Black and org. wire should have 5 volts unpluged. Should have 5,000 ohms between the brown and orange wires on the EGR valve without vacuum. With 20 inch hg vacuum it should be 100 ohms with a smooth change from 5000 to 100.
your right it's code 33 i must have missed the repeat -anyway i did a running self test and came up with code 33 (egr valve opening not detected) but i also had a code 46(thermactor air not bypassing during self test) i take it to probably be an air bypass valve -maybe solenoid. i know alot of people who just stop using the air pump alll together and there seems to be alot of contraversy as to wether or not the air pump actually has any real benefit or if it's just something else to throw money at ??? i suspected that i was having egr problems before i even checked for codes as i have experienced egr failures on different vehicles-usually the valve doesn't want to seat properly . but what are your thoughts about the code 46??? appreciate your response.
You might want to check over all of your vac lines. Since everything is controlled with vac, if one of them cracked or came off any of the TAB/TAD/EGR lines, you would get error codes. It can be a pain to get at some of them, and since they are run through wire loom, your best bet is to test them with a vac pump/gauge.
Sometimes you can check vacuum lines by hooking up a guage at the end of the line, starting the engine to build vacuum and stopping the engine. See if vacuum holds. This doesn't always work.
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