When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
just getting started on a 67 ranger short box 2WD project. installing the I beams and brake setup off a 77 on it. I want to lower the truck at lease 2" or more depending on how it sits. I'm sure it's been done alot to thses old trucks, so my question is whats the best method or perferred method for lowering the twin I beam?
I'd scrap the i beams and go with a mustang II front end from like fat man fabrication or something. That is what i plan to do...I beans are far supirior in truck applications but for street driving the A arms and coilovers are the way to go. If your serious that is. But you could get Dropped I beams and shorter springs.
ya,mustang two if u have some moola to buy it,but there is cheaper ways like:lowering I-beams,lowering springs,ummm,for the 77 front end there should be dropped spindles,um thats for the front,for the rear:flip kits,lowering springs,ummmmm,oh,if u are good at moth,and welding and got the opertunities u can make it a four link system with coil overs,or ladder bars,with coil overs,but thats as much as i know
True its moola......but its only 1800.00 for full tubular A arms all the coilover springs all you need is to have the entire assembly welded in, its 3 pieces. But If you just want it wor looks I'd go the cheap route.
Hey where's a good place to find all this lowering parts and stuff?? Also when lowering the Twin Beams what is done to maintain the proper camber and caster settings. I know the I beam set up required heating and bending the beams if the camber got to far out....
A mustang II suspension is outside the budget limits. Looking for the best way the lower the twin I beam. This is a first project for my step son and his first truck. Going to teach him how to fix and change things without just going and changing parts. I'm not familiar with the twin I beam suspension. We will be installing a 1977 disc brake setup on the 67 truck. Should we try to bent the beams after cutting the spring, or is there drop spindles available?
i think most people on this site try to shy away from bending the beams. to my knowledge they dont make drop spindles for the twin i beam setup. ive looked quite a bit for them. look at aim industries or djm for their drop beams and rear lower kit. i think you can get the whole setup for around 600 bones. hope this helps.
Well if you pick up a "Truckin" magazine there is alot of stuff in there like adds that will have phone numbers and or web addresses. They actually make I beams with the spindle mounts moved for proper drop height. Drop spindles are for chevy's...the fords actually have I beam's that are made with the drop in them I think its 3". This is actually the proper way to do it, It keeps you fully aligned....I dont think its that bad 3-600 dollars I think for the i beams.
LMC does have front coils and rear leafs that will lower your truck, but ive heard that with just dropping the truck with coils may mess your caster/camber up. drop beams is the best way to go.
i lowered mine with cut coils and had a frame and alignment shop bend my beams, they did this with an alignment for $140.00 total. some I-beams have a stamp on them that says do not bend or heat, doing so can shatter them so check before you bend. Also do not use heat to bend them.
<TABLE class=tborder cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=4 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 2047394" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>4CAMMER72</TD><TD class=alt2>i lowered mine with cut coils and had a frame and alignment shop bend my beams, they did this with an alignment for $140.00 total. some I-beams have a stamp on them that says do not bend or heat, doing so can shatter them so check before you bend. Also do not use heat to bend them.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
i have a 67 2wd and this is also the way i lowered mine.only it costs me $160.00
the shop that done mine, did an excellant job. i can be running 95 mph, let go of the wheel and slightly tap the brake, and she stays straight. no tire wear whatsoever. also, my truck was lowered 4 inches front and rear. it sits nice and level....
Ok.. Thanks for all the replies. I have a large press so bending the beams wouldnot be a problem. The game plan is to measure the caster/camber the way the truck sits now. Cut the springs to lower it. Then bend the beams and keep measuring until the caster/camber is back to where it was before it was lowered. Then have a aligement done. Any idea on how much arch has to be put in the beams to correct a 2' to 3' lowered truck? I have an extra set of beams, so I'm allowed one screw up
Don't know how far you need to bend them but I have been warned by lots of alignment shops to have the beams magnafluxed or some other form of PT testing before bending them and make sure you heat them up plenty when you bend them...