Hi Everybody,

I just bought an 87 ranger with the 2.9

The oil pressure guage says the pressure is low. She seems to run fine, and didn't even begin to get hot, but I only drove it 15 miles so far. When I first start it up, it revs a little high till it warms up. The odometer reads 32,000. The guy said it's 232,000... whatever.

I'm pretty sure this truck has been pounded. Off road and all. He wound up wrecking it, but not too bad. She needs a fender, a tie rod end, and a tail light. One of the rims has a little dent but it's on the undamaged side. The spare is flat with a slash and tread damage. If only she could talk...

Anyway, I'm not really familiar with Rangers, or the 2.9 and would appreciate any suggestions, advice, opinions, etc... I saw another post that mentioned cheap pressure guages that Ford used that aren't really accurate. Is there any way I could find out without buying an aftermarket guage. Any symptoms to watch for?

Do all Rangers have such touchy brakes? They almost seem too strong. Maybe I need lighter shoes

 

The absolute first thing you need to do is spend $14.95 on a Haynes Manual. It has all the little tid bits in it about where stuff is and a trouble shooting guide.
First thing you need ta do on the oil is change it, and the filter. You'll need a oil filter socket, an old style wrench WILL NOT WORK. And I'd add a bottle of some type of oil treatment, one for high mileage engines. If the gauge still reads low I'd replace the oil sending unit. In an engine that old there could be alot of crud built up in it, so use 5w-30 (nice thin oil will help clean it out. If it still reads low, I'd look to the gauge, or better yet, have someone check it are buy a tool to check it yourself.
As far as the brakes being "grabby". Sounds like it's been sitting and maybe a little rust build up on the rotors. This should work itself out after a few miles of driving. I've never heard of a "liter" brake pads. Mine are like that after sitting a few days or so.

Good Luck

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 30-Dec-02 AT 02:16 PM (EST)]Thanks Mathelm, the "lighter shoes" are for ME tho!

I'll definitely get that book. Hope I don't need it too much tho. I sure hope it's something simple like a sending unit. I like the way this motor pulls, I hope I don't wind up replacing it (but a 302 maybe...), the rest of the chassis is in good shape -very little rust.

The guage gets up into the norm zone for a moment after accelerating hard, then slowly goes back down at cruising speed. Sitting at a red light, it goes all the way down to the orange stripe. The "Engine Oil" light works, I tested the bulb, but it doesn't come on when she's running.

 

Hi EastSide. If you spend some time reading some of the older threads, you'll see reference to the low oil pressure quite frequently. It's not uncommon in higher mileage Rangers. Mine does it too. Although most mechanics would think I'm nuts, I use 20W-50 motor oil, with a bottle of STP oil treatment, IN THE SUMMER (hot weather). Just straight 20W-50 in the winter (no STP). If your oil pressure is indeed low (not a malfunctioning sender, or other malfunction), the increased viscosity will UP the oil pressure a good bit, until you have the time (if you even intend) to change the oil pump, or do a deeper rebuild.

 

It's not uncommon to have oil pressure problems in the 2.9 as well as leaking valve covers, noisy lifters and cracked heads. DO NOT overheat this engine or you will crack stock heads, when they crack you end up with coolant in the oil and this will cause bearing wear very quickly and will cause low oil pressure. A clogged oil pump pickup screen can also cause low pressure. My 1989 2.9 liked to run a little low on pressure but it never caused a problem. Before doing anything you really need to put a real gauge on it. By the way if you do get the leaky valve covers use the silicon gaskets and make sure the load spreaders are all in the right places, the covers are flat and you never want to over-tighten the bolts.

 

20W oil is preaty heavy stuff. I don't know what kinda climate you live in but it'd have ta get preaty hot. One of the problems with a heavy oil is it takes it longer ta get where it needs ta be on a cold crank up. Which is when you do th most damage to your motor. Not to mention all the build up you get (sluge) could eventualy block some passages. I'd use the 5W ford recomends in the winter, with STP or whichever additive and maybe go with a 10W in the summer. Course some "engine restore" would probaly help alot.

 

I don't care for the additives but that's just me. :-)

 

Thanx again you guys, I appreciate it.

How 'bout dem GIANTS Ken! I'm from NJ myself...originally.

I took a closer look at things the other day, took the wheels off and looked at the rotors and all. It's not as bad as I expected. I tapped a bunch of brake dust out of the drums and the brakes feel normal now. There was a little shimmy at low speed that I thought would be a warped rotor but it's just a welt in the the tire. But with the wheels off, I see I need both tie rod ends.Looks like an easy enough job. The dented rim hammered out easy too.

The pressure guage seems to stay in the NORM zone a little longer now too. After a while it still drops back down. It seems to take longer each time. Maybe I need to open it up a few more times and it'll fix itself! Flooring it is one way to get that pressure up. I guess I'll find out for sure if the head is cracked too. The guy replaced the radiator and water pump, so I guess it's been overheated. It looks like he did try to take care of it tho,at least till he wrecked it, but I don't think he would drive it overheated. At least I hope so.



Would anti freeze float on oil and show up on the stick?

I'm a carpenter and already drove an Escort to the junkyard on three cylinders after trying to change the water pump... which was connected too the timing belt... etc. So I have my reservations about going deep into the motor, but sometimes I come out ahead.

I could manage to raise the motor and get the pan off, but how hard would it be to change the pump after that? I could do the exaust at the same time. If I lose the catalyst, could I gain anything? We don't have to pass emissions in Hawaii...as long as there's no smoke.

Jim

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jan-03 AT 11:22 PM (EST)]There would be bubbles or discoloration on your dip stick if you had water in the oil.
The 2.9 is a good ole fasion setup. No timing belts ingrated with water pumps, windshield washers, etc. But I still don't really think theres anything wrong with your pump. Atleast not till you check the other things mentioned. But yes, I don't think you'll have a big problem changing the pump yourself. So long as the engine can be jacked up enough, which is something I havn't tried so I don't know. But be careful of the "as long as I'm here stuff". In other words, you'll want to rebuild the whole bottom end once you get the pan off.
As far as taking off the converters, mine has 2 which makes me think there maybe some sort of back pressure thing goin on, and eventually everyone will have emission test. I went to a lot of trouble way back when, knocking a hole thru the inside of one on my trans am. Three years later, emissions test, had ta replace the thing for $200 bucks. Plus the rusted things are a pain to get off.

Sounds like you're havin almost as much fun tinkerin with your's as I am with mine, which I've had sence about Thanksgiving. Paid $610 for it off ebay. And all "I Had" to do was put a new steering gear box n pump on it. Course I'm about ta tinker it to death. Just started on the body work and shoud be ready ta spray in a couple three weeks.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=11062&.jpg

Hey! Whata ya know, that was my 100th post.... cool

 

Congratulations Mat!

Thanks for using FTE!




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Hi Jim, I'm from South Jersey, lets go EAGLES.

If you have coolant in the oil it would look a bit like a chacolate milkshake. As far s changing the oil put you wouold have to pull the engine for a 4wd, it can be done by jacking the engine on 2wd but it's hard to do.

Ken

 

My drummer's an Eagles fan too... Now I got 2 people to bust on when the GIANTS go down to Philly and win!!! ...

Yeah, I know, I know... I wouldn't put money on it. But it's time to break out the old bass with the NY logo on it again. I haven't played it too much since the Giants were in the super bowl last time.

I hope I don't have to do this job at all, but if I do, do I have to separate the motor from the trans to get enough clearance? If that's the case I might not try it. I don't mind doing the exhaust, it's about ready anyway. But I still hope it's just the sensor.

Matt, it looks like you scored! $610,4WD? Looks good! I paid $700 and it's 2WD and smashed up. Very little rust for around here tho. I won't mind putting more into it if I think it'll last. The chassis is solid at least. And she does run great.

 

Do not seprate the motor for the tansmision unless you plan to pull the motor. Have you changed the oil n stuff yet? At this point (after what Ken said) I would consider changing the oil pump a last resort. And a magor undertaking.

Yep it's 4wd and a super cab. It's (was) dinged up preaty good. Am in the process of sling bondo as we speak. And it had almost zero rust too. Bunch of little stuff wrong with it, lots a tinkerin. That blue bug deflector in the pic, the guy drilled straight thru the hood ta put that sucker on. And I thought I was a red neck. Would have made a perfect hunting truck, only I don't hunt. So I'm doin my best ta make it preaty again. I'm not really fond of black ( shows dirt ) I was thinkin of either red or maybe that new yellow ford has out now.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=11064&.jpg

Thease pics are all from the ebay add. Look at all the bumper stickers. This thing came from a little "township" outside of Allintown PA. I'm in NC. I use ta work for espn at the nascar races. Pocono, Wadkins Glen etc. No nobody believed me about the yankie red necks. They do now.

 

 

Giants Eagles, LOL

I would put a real gauge on it and find out what the pressure is before doing much. You may find that it's not that far from spec and a slightly thicker oil will help. Good luck.