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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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Unhappy starter

Hi Guys,

Been a few days , had to paint before bad weather. Here's my new problem . First off this is what I've done. The frame broke on my F-350,couldn't find another so I went with a high boy frame I found, had it sandblasted, changed steering box , very easy, only had to drill 4 new holes make 1 1/2 " spacer . everything else direct bolt up. Bolted on 79 cab and clip with bed. Alos found a class # 3 hitch for the frame very reasonable from u-haul . All went very smooth looking at the different topics on this site. ITS GREATTTT.


Now for the problem. When I turn the key to start the engine the starter keeps running while the engine is running.

I have a new starter,new wire from solenoid to starter,new wire from battery to solenoid,new ground wire from battery to engine block, new solenoid,and tried original solenoid. where next ?

Also looking for carb suggestions ? Has holley on it now,hesitates really bad,very dirty,choke parts striped,sounds to me like buying new easier than looking for parts ?

Edelbrock or Holley

Thanks and have a great day
Craig
 
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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kermit
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i love my edelbrock 1407. starter prob might be in the ignition switch, not releasing contact all the way.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 09:16 PM
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I also prefer the Edelbrock - Holleys are for racers that like to tune all the time. My 600 cfm Edelbrock has been on my 390 for over 6 years and, other than the initial tune, has remained untouched since.

The two small wires on the starter solinoid could be swapped. The terminal marked "S" should have power with key in start position only. The terminal marked "I" should have power with key in run position. Remove the wires and test with meter or test light and hook up accordingly.

Marty
 
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 09:27 AM
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the way that I understand the wire for the starter solenoid is that the S wire comes from the ignition "start" position to energize the solenoid. the I wire goes to the coil with 12 volts to give a hotter spark at startup. it bypasses the inline resistor that drops the coil voltage to around 8 V while engine is running.

Hope this helps.
Tony
 
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 05:01 PM
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I checked all the wires, their ok. if you switch the small wires around the starter runs immediately when the key is on. I changed ignition switch, still the same. I changed the wire harness to alt. as this one has no air, still the same. I tried still another solenoid still the same. any ideas from here ? if i jump across the solenoid it will start on run like a ***** cat.

thanks
Craig
 
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 05:09 PM
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The problem is a bad starter drive. The spring is not allowing it to return. If it's a new starter take it back to the place you got it from and replace it, not all rebuilt part's work correctly 100% of the time.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by armstrongfordtrucks
I checked all the wires, their ok. if you switch the small wires around the starter runs immediately when the key is on. I changed ignition switch, still the same. I changed the wire harness to alt. as this one has no air, still the same. I tried still another solenoid still the same. any ideas from here ? if i jump across the solenoid it will start on run like a ***** cat.

thanks
Craig
I agree with Ranger 429... The Bendix spring is bad and not pulling it back. Rebuilt parts are not all that good, but what most people buy/can afford.

How about hitting the starter with it not on the engine, if the bendix pops back in, it's the spring.

I've not heard of having to shimm a Ford starter...

I've had to put has many has three "Rebuilt" alternators on to get a good one, and has many starters too...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 07:43 PM
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solenoid might be sticking?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 08:04 PM
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Got the truck to start, it was the wire harness to the auto tranny, I went to a 4 speed, I checked the harness on the other cab found a jumper and put it on this one and it now starts from inside the cab.


Thanks for all the help
Craig
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 06:29 AM
  #10  
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Thanks for the update.
 
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