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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Heater Problems

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Old Jan 3, 2003 | 09:58 PM
  #1  
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Torque1st
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Heater Problems

 
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 07:03 AM
  #2  
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wdurbin
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From: owensboro usa
Heater Problems

I have at 1993 Ranger with a 4.0 liter V6. I have been having cooling system problems and replaced a freeze plug (had a hole in one), water pump and have replaced the thermostat over the weekend. I am now getting very little heat coming out of the heater in the cab. Engine Temp is fine now, but the outsided temp is getting cold, and the cab is not warming up...Should I flush out the heater core, or just replace it. Any other suggestions?

Need help quickly as the temp keeps on dropping.

Thanks in advance,


 
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 08:21 AM
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Heater Problems

Flushing the core out might help, do both heater hoses get hot were they connect to the core.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 08:30 AM
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wdurbin
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Heater Problems

I have not checked that. I thought this morning I would find some heat....I will check this later today when I get off work. Do you know if getting access to the inlet for the heater core is easy to get to.

Wayne
 
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 12:04 PM
  #5  
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wdurbin
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From: owensboro usa
Heater Problems

OK....I flushed out the heater core this morning..I thought this was going to do the trick...I went out for a drive and felt really hot air for a few miles, and then back to the cooler heated air. Does this sound like heater core going bad or what.

Wayne
 
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 01:45 PM
  #6  
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mathelm
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From: W-S
Heater Problems

Sounds like what would happen if the fluid leavel was low or the pump was giving out. This is gonna sound crazy but it worked for me. Try reversing the heater core hoses. It dosen't look like it would matter and I thought the guy had lost it the first time I heard it, but it was like a nite n day difference.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 02:33 PM
  #7  
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MickeyP
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From: NJ USA
Heater Problems

>OK....I flushed out the heater core this morning..I thought
>this was going to do the trick...I went out for a drive and
>felt really hot air for a few miles, and then back to the
>cooler heated air.

One other thought on this. IF flushing the core cured the problem temporarily, I would think that MIGHT indicate you have lots of crap floating about in your coolant, causing the core to quickly re-clog itself.

Did you fully flush the system during any of the steps you took? Also, as Ken asked, did you feel the two hoses leading to the core to see if one or both are getting hot? If one's hot and da other ain't, you may have a clogged core (or hose, but that's unlikely). If neither's getting hot, then coolant isn't even getting to the core.


 
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Old Jan 15, 2003 | 07:47 PM
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Heater Problems

Some years have a valve in the hose that controls the coolant flow, see if you have one and check the hose for heat on each side of that too.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 05:51 AM
  #9  
wdurbin's Avatar
wdurbin
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From: owensboro usa
Heater Problems

I only flushed out the core at the firewall...did not do the entire system. I had heard flushing the whold system really wouldn't do a good job on the core itself...Should I still have the whole system flushed now. I need help quick, it is going to snow up to 4-8 inches here today....NEED HEAT


Thanks
 
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 10:38 AM
  #10  
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amp17757
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From: Harrisburg USA
Heater Problems

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-16-03 AT 11:39 AM (EST)]In reference to "Ken00" reply ... if NEITHER heater hose is reasonably hot (no coolant flowing through core), do definitely find out if you have the coolant flow control valve. I think they were vacuum actuated. If the vacuum diaphragm ruptures, it will fail to open the coolant valve at all, or will fail gradually as it rips further. Also,if it IS vacuum controlled, make sure vacuum is indeed getting to it.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 11:16 AM
  #11  
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wdurbin
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From: owensboro usa
Heater Problems

might have found the problem...had the coolant system flushed this morning and in return, i may have damp carpet in the passenger side floor....oh no!! may have to do the dirty and replace the core. Is this an easy task or should I have it professionally done?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 02:09 PM
  #12  
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Heater Problems

I'm not familar with your year but on my 1989 it was a 1/2 job, on my 2000 it's a 6-8 hour job, I'm leaning to a 1/2 hour job.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 06:33 PM
  #13  
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wdurbin
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From: owensboro usa
Heater Problems

What would be causing the engine h20 temp to rise and fall so quickly...Would this be as sign of an air pocket....Had heat tonight, just not as hot as it used to be.


 
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 07:20 PM
  #14  
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Kallie
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From: SW Washington, USA
Heater Problems

92 Ranger STX Supercab 4x4
I had to replace the heater core on my 88 Ranger spercab and it was a bear it is under dash behind glovebox. I found it easier to lay upside down on the passenger seat to see better as well as it was easier on my back. It took about an hour or so. Then the heater fan went. Now my heater fan is going bad on my 92 Ranger I hope the heater core doesn't go next.
Good luck
Aussie dog lover
 
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Old Jan 16, 2003 | 10:38 PM
  #15  
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morbidtm
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Heater Problems

I THINK I CAN SOLVE THIS!!!!!!!!

Try this:

Go to local autp parts store, and pick up a quart of that super cooling system flusher. Dump it in the rad of the engine while cold, and drive it hard for aboout 1/2 hour.

Then drain the system, and you should see a lot of sludge coming out. Flush out engine block in through thermostat housing and out through water pump outlet until water appears clean.

Do the same with the radiator.

Replace both radiator hoses, thermostat and rad cap if not already done, and use an old chunck of heater hose to bypass the heater core(connect to small pipe near thermostat housing and small pipe on water pump)

Fill with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Drive for 1/2 hour to ensure proper reading on temp gauge.

Once you have observed your cooling system is working properly on cooling the engine(correct running temp. + no leaks), reflush the heater core using the old hoses until clean water comes through.

replace heater hoses with new, and connect them just as they were to the water pump and thermostat housing. You can get it in bulk and cut to the size you need.

Connect all hoses and clamps tight, fill system to correct level, and tret drive. Heat should work after about 5 min of driving.

great if it works, and hopefully doesnt leak. If it leaks inside the truck, get a new core and a winter coat and a back brace and prepare for 1 hour of grueling work.

Good luck!

Tony

By the way, ive done this on a 1991 explorer 4.0, and it works perfect to this day.
 
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