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I have a bone stock F-1 front suspension and steering box. I've seen all the post regarding front clip swaps and IFS kits. Has anyone used a rack and pinion for steering with the stock axle and springs?
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Although I've seen it done, it is not a good idea to use a rack and pinion with a straight axle. A rack and pinion was designed to remain stationary and since an axle moves up and down the steering geometry is not correct...
I'm not sure about the geometry part, since I didn't do the original work, but we welded on a power steering unit from a '95 Lumina behind the stock axle in my '48 F-1 and it has driven great for going on three years now. It is welded directly behind the axle so from the front you almost can't even see it, very stock looking. The linkage to the stock steering wheel consists of: cut off the shaft as it exits the cab; welded on a section of 3/4" DD stock, attach a universal, long telescoping section with >6" of overlap pointed directly at the power steering hub (clears the exhaust manifold by a good 2-3", even at max compression); another universal that attaches directly to the power steering hub. All universal's were just replaced and are from Borgeson (excellent company to work with, they came through big time). I just replaced them because the old set-up went straight down with a telscoping unit from the shaft first, then made a hard angle over to the power steering hub. Too much angle, went over a speed bump too hard and broke the universals. Luckily I was in a store parking lot.
Like I said, it has worked great. If the smarter guys have better advice, pitch in. Good luck.
I'm glad it's working for you. I don't know what the Lumina weighs, but another point I should have mentioned is that a rack and pinion should be used only on vehicles 2800 pounds or lighter since it has a low mechanical advantage. If the Lumina weighs as much as your truck then perhaps that's different. That information came directly from an article I have on street rod steering systems. In addition...
"The steering geometry must be absolutely correct to avoid bump steer (the involuntary turning of the wheels when the truck hits a bump). If the length of the tie rods are not similar to the suspension lateral arms, or if the centerline of the chassis mounting is not in line with the tie rod pivots you will experience bump steer. Also, the location of the rack is critical. The tie rod should be situated and in close proximity and parallel with the lateral arm with the pivot center in line with the tie rod pivot. The arc of travel of the tie rod and lateral arm must be the same or the wheels will be pulled out of line during the operation of the suspension."...complements of Frank Oddo of Street Rodder Magazine.
Wow, Mom always said I should pay attention in math class. I'm taking my calipers out to the garage tonight.
I have tried to pay attention to the way the steering feels, especailally when going over bimps or hard braking and steering conmbined (missing deer at night, kids running out in the street, etc.) So far I haven't noticed anythign unusual feeling in any extreme situations, but I will check out the measurements. Now, where was my "Auto Repair for Dummies" book...
I saw a 47 F1 at a cruise a couple of weeks ago. This guy had P.S., P.B. with a straight axle front. He also had a rack and pinion steering mounted off the axle. He also removed springs from front to lower truck. That made the ride to soft so he mounted coil over shocks to stiffen ride back up. Had a small block with a blower on it.
He said he has had no problems but not sure how much he drives it.
Just got my December issue of Classic Trucks today. Check out Ron Covell's column "Professor Hammer's Metalworking Tips" on page 88. The second question asks about using a rack and pinion in a fairly heavy vehicle...a 69 Chevy pickup. Ron goes into more detail about vehicle weight and bumpsteer with rack and pinion systems...
Thanks for all the input on this subject. I've seen racks attached to the straight axle, but that was on hot rods which are much lighter. I would like to hear from anyone that has changed to a dofferent manual steering box as one of my options.
Can't help much on that. I think your best bet is going to be to try and find a good used F-1 steering box or rebuild the one you have. I used a Ross steering box out of a mid-50s ****** Jeep panel wagon (a CJ5 or CJ7 may be the same) many years ago in a project but it was not in a Ford truck. The ****** box mounts much the same way as a Ford and it's about the same size, but that box may be about as hard to find now as a good Ford truck box.
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