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I have a 1989 full-size Bronco with a 5.0 EFI and AOD. I bought this machine about 6 weeks ago. I promptly took it to the shop and told them to give it a thorough going-over for safety and performance issues. I then corrected all that they found (including bad EVP sensor). I also had them do a "major tune-up" and fuel filter replacement. Since then this vehicle has just up and died three times under three different circumstances. Every time the engine was warmed up and in city driving. The outside air temp has varied from high 90's (a/c on) to low 70's (a/c off), so I don't think it's a heat-related problem. Twice it has died while maintaining a steady speed of about 30mph. Once it died shortly after leaving a stop for a traffic signal and accelerating uphill at about 30mph. It just quits all of a sudden. There is no sputtering or racing; it just dies. Everytime it won't start for about 10 minutes even though the battery cranks it quite well. There is no smell of gasoline at any time as though the engine might be flooded. Unfortunately, I don't have equipment with me to test for adequate spark. After about 10 minutes it fires right up and runs perfectly. Any ideas? Would a trip to AutoZone for an OBD reading be helpful? oes this sound like some part of the computerized engine/emissions controls are shutting the engine down?
Also, this last time it died just as I was nearing my house, so I was able to coast into the driveway. I had to use a bit of muscle on the steering as there was no power. I noticed when I popped the hood that ps fluid was leaking. Is this normal for this situaion?
I fought the same exact problem on my 89 and have been trouble free (Knock on Wood) for the past 2 years but it gave me fits for over 3 years.
There are a few things that can and will cause this but your's may vary. 1st off, check or replace the Fuel Pump relay and the EEC Power Relay located on the driver side firewall / fender well area. They are labeled. Next, the wiring to these can go bad. Mine did going to the EEC relay. When your truck is running, raise the hood and wiggle all the wires going to these 2 relays and see if you can make it cut out. If not, check or replace your fuel pump under your seat on the rail. Had to replace mine twice over the past 13 years. Also, the in tank pump can cause this problem. Lastly, the TFI module located on the distributor goes out without warning. I get one from the Zone with lifetime warranty and then just replace it every 2 years just like I do my plug wires. Either fuel pump can heat up after only 10 or so minutes and shut itself off until it cools. Mine usually took about 20 to 30 minutes before it would fire right up.
Sorry for the long winded response but it may come in handy.
The PS fluid will squirt out the vent hole in the pump if you are maneuvering without the pump running. Its back pressure created by the movement of the gearing. It definitely sounds like your dying problem is most likely electrical in nature. The onboard computer should not shut it down but rather trigger an error or problem code that will turn the "check engine" light on. If not, then the problem is not centered around one of the PCM monitored sensors. However, pulling the codes might shed some light on what part of the electrical system is causing the problem.
I fought the same exact problem on my 89 and have been trouble free (Knock on Wood) for the past 2 years but it gave me fits for over 3 years.
There are a few things that can and will cause this but your's may vary. 1st off, check or replace the Fuel Pump relay and the EEC Power Relay located on the driver side firewall / fender well area. They are labeled. Next, the wiring to these can go bad. Mine did going to the EEC relay. When your truck is running, raise the hood and wiggle all the wires going to these 2 relays and see if you can make it cut out. If not, check or replace your fuel pump under your seat on the rail. Had to replace mine twice over the past 13 years. Also, the in tank pump can cause this problem. Lastly, the TFI module located on the distributor goes out without warning. I get one from the Zone with lifetime warranty and then just replace it every 2 years just like I do my plug wires. Either fuel pump can heat up after only 10 or so minutes and shut itself off until it cools. Mine usually took about 20 to 30 minutes before it would fire right up.
Sorry for the long winded response but it may come in handy.
Good luck,
OK, I'll look into those things. If it's not the wiring to one of those, however, how can I check for intermittent operation (or, rather, failure)? Also, I'm pretty sure that heat is not a factor since I have driven this thing in the mid 90's several times with a/c on for trips of 60 miles in stop and go traffic. That, plus one of the incidents occurred during extremely mild weather of low 70's with no a/c in smoothly flowing suburban traffic. Thanks for the tips.
The PS fluid will squirt out the vent hole in the pump if you are maneuvering without the pump running. Its back pressure created by the movement of the gearing. It definitely sounds like your dying problem is most likely electrical in nature. The onboard computer should not shut it down but rather trigger an error or problem code that will turn the "check engine" light on. If not, then the problem is not centered around one of the PCM monitored sensors. However, pulling the codes might shed some light on what part of the electrical system is causing the problem.
Thanks for explaining the ps problem. I didn't realize that would happen.
I am of the opinion that it is either electrical malfunction or fuel starvation. I _do_ see the check engine light when this happens. However, this is when the engine has died and not before. I'll see what codes are stored.
Ignition Control Module. It's located on the distributor and is a rather cheap part. I started to give up after awhile until I just happened to ask the right auto clerk. Him and his buddies actually kept extras. Worked like a charm. Try it first. But I'm telling, same EXACT thing. One time I actually had it towed 46 miles.
Ignition Control Module. It's located on the distributor and is a rather cheap part. I started to give up after awhile until I just happened to ask the right auto clerk. Him and his buddies actually kept extras. Worked like a charm. Try it first. But I'm telling, same EXACT thing. One time I actually had it towed 46 miles.
OK, I'll check that out. If it's relatively inexpensive, I'll just toss the current one in the trash and replace it.
my roomate's ranger just did this same thing tonite same symptons; I had to tow him home. His dad is a mechanic and we are in the process of changing his ignition module. We will hopefully have it changed by tomorrow. We will let you all know if this solves the problem.
well, this kind solved the problem. now there might be a thing wrong with the ignition switch now, porbably due to the added strain from trying to crank it so many times.
I haven't had any free time to check it out yet. I _might_ be able to look into it this weekend or next, but the schedule is pretty tight at home and work right now.
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