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I should start off by saying this is my first post here. I own an '89 ranger with a 2.9, man 5sp (mazda), 2wd, extended cab xlt. I replaced the front brake rotors, pads, and calipers, the rear drums, pads and internals as well as all the brake lines.
The problem is this. I got to step on the brake pedal and at first it feels fine. after a split second or two the braking power fades and the pedal goes further to the floor even though I am maintaining consistent pedal force. After it travels a couple inches or so it gets firm again. The pedal never touches the floor and braking power is good, but the pedal doesn't feel right.
I am guessing the problem might be either air in the lines or a bad master cylinder.
What do you think?
If the problem is indeed the M/C can it be rebuilt with new seals by me or do I need to replace it entirely?
The truck has 230,000 and underwent a rebuild a few k ago. Bored out the cylinders .030", new injectors, clutch, distributer, alt, wiper motor, new bushings in the front as well as ball joints and tie rod ends. New shocks front and rear, newer transmission, seals and bearing on the rear end and all the above mentioned brake work.
My Unprofessional Opinion says that you just got air in your lines.
It takes good corordination between the guy working the pedal and the guy working the wrenches while bleeding the brakes. And you have to keep an eye on the fluid leval in the master cylinder, If it runs out in the cylinder, thats just more air in the lines.
I would make sure the back breakes are adjusted correctly first.
I thought those adjusted themselves
I will try bleeding the brakes again. My dad is the one who helps me. It was his truck when he bought it new in '89 and we both repaired it to get it back on the road and in good working order. He gave it to me for my 18th birthday (last year)
In some spots in break lines F-150s are notorious for this. they get a air bubble in the line that wont move because it is entirely level or its bent up line (to clear the bell housing), and all the fluid moves around it not letting it go any where. so you need to power bleed your breaks. you could go rent one from an auto parts store or take it to a shop and have them do it. if thats not it than i would suspect the M/C. its probably cheaper to buy a new one than try to rebuild. Rebuilding M/Cs is becoming a forgotten practice. I was fortunate to have a old shop teacher who taught a select few (me and a buddy) how to rebuild them.
Hmm. All the lines were hand bent and b/c I was using pre-made brake lines that were a set length they had a few odd bends to them. Do you think a vacuum bleeder, like a mity vac would work?
Exactly how entailed is rebuilding the M/C? I rebuilt a pneumatic nail gun once, lol
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