brake light switch conversion.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 161
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From: Virginia
brake light switch conversion.
I am pretty well on my way on my 65 F250 to newer late 70's power brakes. A huge improvement over the old ones that were only half working anyway. Anyway here is my question: Were there two different style master cylinder pushrods used in the mid-late 70's trucks. My brake light switch came from one with a round end on the pushrod. The master cylinder pushrod I have is square on the end though. Should I just get another switch? I tried installing the one I have today and it caused a lot of swearing as I was laying under the dash. Oh yea the master cylinder was out of a 76 if I remember correctly. Can't remember where the switch came from.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Hi Robert, The 60s trucks use a pressure switch that the 70s don't. You will have to pull the two wires on the master cylinder, pull them back inside the cab. The 70s trucks had the switches mounted on the pedal. You will need to figure how to mount the switch there and reconnect the two wires to the newer switch.
John
John
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Same house since 1953
My little brother had a similar situation on his old Chevy. We both hate working under the dash.
We just put a brass "T" fitting in one of the brake lines near the master cylinder and screwed in an old Ford pressure switch and connected the two brake lite wires to it. Works fine. He finally got over having a Ford part on his GM vehicle.
John
We just put a brass "T" fitting in one of the brake lines near the master cylinder and screwed in an old Ford pressure switch and connected the two brake lite wires to it. Works fine. He finally got over having a Ford part on his GM vehicle.
John
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
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From: Parkville, MO (KC)
Pressure switches are less sensative and more prone to fail. The newer setups fire up the brake lights earlier, before pressure is even being generated. The lights come up when you first start to put your foot on the brake and think about whatever it is up in front of you that worries you. MUCH better to get the later type. Get the later plunger switch. Get a piece of 2 1/2" pipe and cut a 3" long piece. Now, quarter that. You will have a curved peice that can be clamped up to the steering column in your 65. Now, weld a bracket onto that piece, and, if you are really into it, thread a hole in that bracket for the switch. You can easily manuver this bracket so that the brake pedal nicely depresses the plunger (shuts off switch, by breaking contact) when its up, and turns on the brake lights the moment you touch the brakes.
If I were a paying member, I'd post a pic. If you need a pic, email me and I'll send one over.
Please don't use the old style switch. I might be following you someday. Get my drift....
later....
If I were a paying member, I'd post a pic. If you need a pic, email me and I'll send one over.
Please don't use the old style switch. I might be following you someday. Get my drift....
later....
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 161
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From: Virginia
I am going with a contact switch and not a pressure switch. I have a momentary type switch in a piece of aluminum tubing right now on the top side of the brake pedal assembly. The challenge now is how to get it to stick up there without welding. I may have that solved. The other question is whether the cheap switch will hold up for very long.
