Herculine workbench??
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 335
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From: Houston, TX
Herculine workbench??
I built a 31" by 8 ft. workbench with 3/4" plywood as the work surface. I've been wracking my brain to come up with a good work surface to apply to the plywood. I don't want to stay with raw wood.
At first, I thought of trying to apply something like the 'garage works' type flooring, but I can't find anything like that at my local Sears/Lowe's/Home Depot. I don't want to use anything porous that liquids can get through.
I thought today, what about Herculiner? Dumb idea? Would it bond to wood? The total area I need to cover, worktop and shelf below, is about 50 sq ft.
I'm open to advice and ideas...what do you think??
At first, I thought of trying to apply something like the 'garage works' type flooring, but I can't find anything like that at my local Sears/Lowe's/Home Depot. I don't want to use anything porous that liquids can get through.
I thought today, what about Herculiner? Dumb idea? Would it bond to wood? The total area I need to cover, worktop and shelf below, is about 50 sq ft.
I'm open to advice and ideas...what do you think??
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 111
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From: Jackson
That might not be a bad idea. We used that on are drive up 4 post lift at work. The stuff works great. We drive about 35 car and trucks a day on the lifts and the surface still feels ruff. It might take a couple of coat to do so becuase the wood is so porous and might soak up fast. Buy a qt and tri it on a small peaice of wood to see if it works.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Use tempered masonite for a work surface. The bedliner will crack and peel on wood.
Junior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 63
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From: Warren, Ontario
I second the formica idea - i had some lying around and covered my bench with it three years ago -still going strong and easy to clean.
Andy
Andy
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: In the swamps of Florida
It has been my experience that Herculiner does not stick to plywood very well. I like the idea of masonite or formica.
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Still kicking!!
Joined: May 2003
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From: Kalispell, Mt.
My brother, in his engine machine shop, used thin stainless steel sheeting to cover his benches. Nothing gets through it short of a carelessly handled drill. And it's really easy to keep clean. Depends on what you use the bench for though. If it's heavy duty work, then I'd go with a heavy duty surface.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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I had a unfinished (raw) masonite top that can be purchased at the home box stores for ~20 years. The only reason it is still not here is I eliminated the bench in some remodeling. The top was held on with a few nails around the outside. You really don't want to use adhesive since that is a mess if you need to replace the surface. Screws can be a real pain to remove after a few years.
New User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12
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work surface
I would coat it with fiberglass resin it wont crack or peel off and it will be tuff as formica because it will soak into the wood. It would probaly take two coats. If you are near a boat plant or a place that makes whirlpools or showerstalls the resin would be cheaper, but you can buy it at walmart etc.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 544
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From: Cupertino, CA
I'm at this same point of trying to decide on a surface. Formica and Masonite sound like good choices, but I'm considering another: Linoleum tile. I can get it at Home Despot for about $1/square, it's about the right hardness that I'd like for a bench surface, and it's just peel-and-stick. I realize I'll have seams, but I don't see that being a big deal. Can anyone else think of any drawbacks to going this way?
Thanks...
mz
Thanks...
mz
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
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1/4 inch masonite works excellent. Install it with no glue and 1 or 1 1/4 drywall screws countersunk flush about 12 inches apart around the perimeter. When it shows wear badly enough take it up and replace it with new.