98 EB 5.4 Plug Change Tips
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Ogden, UTAH
98 EB 5.4 Plug Change Tips
Besides the tips found here I have some of my own.
1. Do not use anti-seize. It gives you false torque readings and is not recommended in the factory service CD.
2. Secure all sockets, extensions, etc with electric tape. It cuts down the dropped tool retreval time.
3. Removing the drivers side fuel rail is the best way.
4. Attach the COP power wires before you screw down the coils.
5. Remove the wire on the rear of the intake and the sharp valve cap on the fuel rail on the passenger side. It cuts down on bleeding and the use of many 4-letter words.
6. Pull the PCV valve and tie the heater core hoses out of the way for the easiest access to the last 2 plugs..
7. NAPA has the coils for $40.00 less than Ford. They are the same. They have the Ford logo on them, just not the Ford part number.
8. Use a long reach grabber for the coil screws.
9. Disconnect the battery. Safety first.
10. Have plenty of beer on hand.
It can be done in under 2 hours without major effort. Just have all the tools and spare parts, like coil boots ready for the ones you have to dig out with a screwdriver and ruin.
1. Do not use anti-seize. It gives you false torque readings and is not recommended in the factory service CD.
2. Secure all sockets, extensions, etc with electric tape. It cuts down the dropped tool retreval time.
3. Removing the drivers side fuel rail is the best way.
4. Attach the COP power wires before you screw down the coils.
5. Remove the wire on the rear of the intake and the sharp valve cap on the fuel rail on the passenger side. It cuts down on bleeding and the use of many 4-letter words.
6. Pull the PCV valve and tie the heater core hoses out of the way for the easiest access to the last 2 plugs..
7. NAPA has the coils for $40.00 less than Ford. They are the same. They have the Ford logo on them, just not the Ford part number.
8. Use a long reach grabber for the coil screws.
9. Disconnect the battery. Safety first.
10. Have plenty of beer on hand.
It can be done in under 2 hours without major effort. Just have all the tools and spare parts, like coil boots ready for the ones you have to dig out with a screwdriver and ruin.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: north carolina
Did the plug job on my 5.4L this weekend. Winkinkaid's tips were useful---especially removing the valve cap on the fuel rail.
I struggled a bit removing the wire connectors from the COPs ( a bused knuckle or two) until I discovered that the connector's release tab is on the bottom of the connector at the very tip (wire-end). If you don't grab it at its very end, you can pull all day and it won't budge. Hope this helps others with their plug change experience.
Plugs 4 and 8 were a pain, but not impossible. Start with a plug up front to get the process in your head.
BTW, I did this job without removing the fuel rails----it is possible! I had to twist a couple of the COPs around to clear the electrical connector stub and the hold-down tab on the COP around the rail, but with a little patience, you can do it.
I struggled a bit removing the wire connectors from the COPs ( a bused knuckle or two) until I discovered that the connector's release tab is on the bottom of the connector at the very tip (wire-end). If you don't grab it at its very end, you can pull all day and it won't budge. Hope this helps others with their plug change experience.
Plugs 4 and 8 were a pain, but not impossible. Start with a plug up front to get the process in your head.
BTW, I did this job without removing the fuel rails----it is possible! I had to twist a couple of the COPs around to clear the electrical connector stub and the hold-down tab on the COP around the rail, but with a little patience, you can do it.
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