Brakes
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Brakes
Well, I finally got the rotors off! I have replaced the old rotors and also put on new calipers. My question is, after installing everything, I was bleeding the brakes and NOW I have a leak in my brake hydraulic line. The leak is in a bend just above the fuel filter.
Problem:
1. The end of the hose at the engine side of the line has like metal "thread" wrapped around it. The fittings I bought won't fit over this "thread". Is there any way to remove this, or do I need to replace the entire line from the master cylinder to the rear wheels? Also, is there an easy way to bend this line without kinking it, or otherwise farting it up?
2. Dumb question, maybe...Do I have to bleed the rear brakes after I get this hose problem fixed? How do I do this? I haven't had a lot of experience with drum brakes.
As always, any help is appreciated.
Eric Adams
Problem:
1. The end of the hose at the engine side of the line has like metal "thread" wrapped around it. The fittings I bought won't fit over this "thread". Is there any way to remove this, or do I need to replace the entire line from the master cylinder to the rear wheels? Also, is there an easy way to bend this line without kinking it, or otherwise farting it up?
2. Dumb question, maybe...Do I have to bleed the rear brakes after I get this hose problem fixed? How do I do this? I haven't had a lot of experience with drum brakes.
As always, any help is appreciated.
Eric Adams
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
If you have a rusted out line, you should replace the entire section of brake line. Parts stores will sell brake line bending kits. You can do it with pliers if you're really careful, but I'd recommend the kit if you've never done it before. Brake lines generally come in sections, so you don't have to replace the whole thing.
You have to bleed the rear brakes if you've replaced any of the rear brake line, the ABS valve (if you have ABS), the rear wheel cylinders, or the master cylinder.
Good luck! and post again if you're stuck.
You have to bleed the rear brakes if you've replaced any of the rear brake line, the ABS valve (if you have ABS), the rear wheel cylinders, or the master cylinder.
Good luck! and post again if you're stuck.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
From: Greenville USA
Random Thoughts:
Get a tube bender of the correct size. Remove the old line with minimal cutting or bending.
If you do cut, cut at a angle so you can properly align it for your new piece.
Make the bends on new line next to the old line off the truck. Then, when you put the new line on the truck it will be almost correct.
You can bend the line by hand by about 30 degrees or so from where you have already bent it for final positioning.
If you replace the entire section, you will probably need a longer line than they have available. You can splice sections together. Make sure you are pretty close to the total length (measure by holding a tape measure against the old line and working your way around all the bends) but make sure your total length is longer by a couple of inches (or more, you can take up extar length in bends) than what you measure. Your bends won't be a tight as the factory ones, and this will eat up a little extra line.
The most important bend is the one that determines the angle the ine screws into the fitting.
Get a tube bender of the correct size. Remove the old line with minimal cutting or bending.
If you do cut, cut at a angle so you can properly align it for your new piece.
Make the bends on new line next to the old line off the truck. Then, when you put the new line on the truck it will be almost correct.
You can bend the line by hand by about 30 degrees or so from where you have already bent it for final positioning.
If you replace the entire section, you will probably need a longer line than they have available. You can splice sections together. Make sure you are pretty close to the total length (measure by holding a tape measure against the old line and working your way around all the bends) but make sure your total length is longer by a couple of inches (or more, you can take up extar length in bends) than what you measure. Your bends won't be a tight as the factory ones, and this will eat up a little extra line.
The most important bend is the one that determines the angle the ine screws into the fitting.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TwoOldTrucks987
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Nov 4, 2015 03:26 PM
ydaveitsu
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
4
Aug 5, 2011 12:29 PM
gtuttle
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
26
Jul 22, 2009 08:13 PM
1955effie
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
12
Jun 30, 2009 02:56 PM
