New gauges
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New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5
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New gauges
I have changed from 14 pin gauge cluster in 75 ford with idiot lights to a 18 pin gauge cluster from 77 ford by taking the wires out of the 14 pin plastic connector and installing them in the 18 pin cluster all gauges, dash lights, high beam, brake light and oil pressure guage works perfect I did have to change the oil pressure sending unit. My only problem is the alternator gauge it pegs to discharge side when key is turned on and pegs to high when truck starts. what do I need to do to make this gauge work.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,637
Likes: 349
From: Albuquerque
That sounds like quite a project. The ammeter normally moves only a small amount. Most of them don't work at all. It sounds like you have serious bad connection/wiring. It could cause a short, ruin the gauge etc. Current to the meter normally comes off a shunt resistor so that only a small portion of the actual current runs through it.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
From: Norton Ohio
14 and 18 pin have different alt harneses you can ruin the gauge by peging it i did the swap by changing cab harness and alt harness (only cost me $40 for the harness of the local ford guy) i tried splicing on a 77 18 pin plug on to a 78 78 pin harness and it didnt work so after I ruined my harness i did the swap 77 has a harness completly different from 78
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,043
Likes: 4
And the shunt is located in the alternator harness. It only connects at three places so it isn't hard to swap in. The connectons are at the alternator, the voltage regulator, and the started solenoid.
On edit, Since you are actually using a 14 pin harness in an 18 pin configuration, You will probably need to add two wires from the alterantor harness to the amp guage. The idiot light works off a switch in the voltage regulator and only needs 1 wire to the lamp and the other side is grounded. The amp meter takes two wires from either side of the shunt. There is a 2 pin connector at the starter solenoid end of the alternaor harness.
On edit, Since you are actually using a 14 pin harness in an 18 pin configuration, You will probably need to add two wires from the alterantor harness to the amp guage. The idiot light works off a switch in the voltage regulator and only needs 1 wire to the lamp and the other side is grounded. The amp meter takes two wires from either side of the shunt. There is a 2 pin connector at the starter solenoid end of the alternaor harness.
Last edited by 76supercab2; Oct 5, 2004 at 01:44 PM.
