E.G.T. gauge hookup
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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E.G.T. gauge hookup
OK guys, question here ... I have pyro hooked after turbo, in the downpipe, as it was pre tapped for that. I have been seeing a lot here saying it should be pre turbo. So, how far off are my temps? Do i need to run it pre turbo, or is it fine where it is? The heaviest thing i haul is roughly 5k lbs. Or, could I just put a pyro pre and aft ???
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,245
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From: IL, USA
I've ran my thermocouple both pre and post turbo.....under some conditions the temps were roughly the same and under others I saw up to a 450* difference in pre turbo being hotter than post.
I'd run it pre turbo.....even empty I can hit 1250* + pre turbo.
I'd run it pre turbo.....even empty I can hit 1250* + pre turbo.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: South Texas Coast
Pre Turbo pyrometers are much better indicators of what is happening inside the engine and that is where you are liable to get into trouble. It has been reported that the difference can be as much as 300 degrees cooler post turbo. I suppose if you keep your post turbo temps to 900 and below you should be alright.
Pre turbo placement is not terribly difficult but you will have to drill and tap the crossover pipe or somthing in that area. Some claim that you should do it after the two sides join thats up to you.
The weight of your trailer does have somthing to do with EGT BUT I have watched mine get pretty close to redline if I get on it hard empty.
My thoughts are if you are going to the expense of installing a pyro it should be placed to give you the most accurate reading possible.
Pre turbo placement is not terribly difficult but you will have to drill and tap the crossover pipe or somthing in that area. Some claim that you should do it after the two sides join thats up to you.
The weight of your trailer does have somthing to do with EGT BUT I have watched mine get pretty close to redline if I get on it hard empty.
My thoughts are if you are going to the expense of installing a pyro it should be placed to give you the most accurate reading possible.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: South Texas Coast
Pre Turbo I run 600 to 650 at 65+ MPH empty. That goes up to around 900 to 1000 towing my 33 foot fiver. Of course start climbing a hill and it goes up quicker. I will hit 1200 for short periods but if it stays there I take action to cause it to drop: that is back off a little or drop down a gear
I will tell you tho I can very quickly get 1200 empty if I get on it and stay there.
Look the thing you are worried about is melting a hole in a piston that happens at about 1350. I would also be concerned that prolonged exposure to temps over 1000 would adversely affect longevity. Dont know that for sure but it makes sense to me.
I will tell you tho I can very quickly get 1200 empty if I get on it and stay there.
Look the thing you are worried about is melting a hole in a piston that happens at about 1350. I would also be concerned that prolonged exposure to temps over 1000 would adversely affect longevity. Dont know that for sure but it makes sense to me.
Last edited by Phydeaux88; Oct 5, 2004 at 12:21 AM.
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Now, do I remove thermo from present place to pre-turbo, leaving a nice little hole in the downpipe, or go for the coolness factor of two pyro's in the pillar ???Or, would anyone have a better solution as far as what to do with the other one ??
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Atlanta, GA
I'm going to install a pryo gauge in a few day's (pre turbo) and I would prefer to clamp it in as opposed to welding a fitting in the pipe. Where can I get a clamp that will fit this application?
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,358
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From: China Grove, TX
go to your local auto parts store and get one of the screw-style hose/pipe clamp. i dunno what you call it, but just get one of the right size. drill a hole large enough to fit the probe. i drilled mine close to the screw mechanism. only reason i had to do this was because the clamp that came with my Autometer gauge wouldn't fit around my dowpipe :-/
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From: Bixby, OK
Smokin Redneck,
If you've got the funds to get another probe, why not do as you laughingly suggest? Run two pyrometers, one pre turbo and the existing one in the post turbo location you have it. No need to run two gauges, unless you just need an extra one, as I've seen an ISSPro dual pyrometer gauge on eBay. I even went to their web site a few months ago and it was still something they offered. The twin needles had a fulcrum point near the center of the gauge face and swung up from 0 (at about the 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions) to about 1500 degrees Fahrenhite (at the 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock positions). They even had centigrade readings on the inside of the scale. While I haven't gone to the trouble, I thought it was a nice idea to be able to read both pre and post turbo temps at the same time. (Of course, the intended use of the gauge was probably for those using twin turbos.) Let us know how it works out if you do decide to go with two pyros and which gauge setup you decide upon.
SilentlySoaring
If you've got the funds to get another probe, why not do as you laughingly suggest? Run two pyrometers, one pre turbo and the existing one in the post turbo location you have it. No need to run two gauges, unless you just need an extra one, as I've seen an ISSPro dual pyrometer gauge on eBay. I even went to their web site a few months ago and it was still something they offered. The twin needles had a fulcrum point near the center of the gauge face and swung up from 0 (at about the 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions) to about 1500 degrees Fahrenhite (at the 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock positions). They even had centigrade readings on the inside of the scale. While I haven't gone to the trouble, I thought it was a nice idea to be able to read both pre and post turbo temps at the same time. (Of course, the intended use of the gauge was probably for those using twin turbos.) Let us know how it works out if you do decide to go with two pyros and which gauge setup you decide upon.
SilentlySoaring
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: South Texas Coast
Originally Posted by smokin redneck
Now, do I remove thermo from present place to pre-turbo, leaving a nice little hole in the downpipe, or go for the coolness factor of two pyro's in the pillar ???Or, would anyone have a better solution as far as what to do with the other one ??
Last edited by Phydeaux88; Oct 6, 2004 at 09:12 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Drill and tap the exhaust manifold, the area right where the cross over pipe mounts is great for this. Pistons start to melt at 1250 not 1350, turbo fan blades can be damaged at anything over 1270.
If you like your motor, keep it under 1200 so you have some leeway for error.
If you like your motor, keep it under 1200 so you have some leeway for error.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 60
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Replacement probe
Where can I pickup a replacement probe? I just got the autolite series gauages from the nephew but need a probe and diagram.
HEAT = low rpm, high torque will turn it up fast. The turbo fins will be the looser in that game.
03 7.3 EX
Gurnee, IL
HEAT = low rpm, high torque will turn it up fast. The turbo fins will be the looser in that game.
03 7.3 EX
Gurnee, IL
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Littleton, Colorado
I run another probe off of the transmission gauge to keep track of the engine oil temp. The oil temp and tranny temp gauges are the same except for the label on the face (AutoMeter Sport Comp). I just installed a SPDT switch next to the gauge on my pillar and I can flip it back and forth to check either one. You could do the same thing with the pyro if you wanted to.
Austin
Austin