timing
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From: canada
timing
i have a rebuilt 400 with hedders performer plus cam and the true roller timing chain its timed at 12 btds that is what my dads stock 400 is timed at should i leave it or change it
Thanx Justin
Thanx Justin
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From: canada
i changed it to 6* btds at idels nicer and seems to pick up faster wen i step on it to so im going to leave it a 6*
and as i said at the top it is rebuilt but it is useing oil i was told that it is normal to burn oil during the breakin period the motor has 900 km on it
and as i said at the top it is rebuilt but it is useing oil i was told that it is normal to burn oil during the breakin period the motor has 900 km on it
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From: earth
78,
6* is usually for automatics and 12* is usually for manuals. If the truck is running well at 12*, I'd leave it alone. I'd wait until the engine is broken in and the curve the distributor to the engine (have a shop perform the work or DIY).
6* is usually for automatics and 12* is usually for manuals. If the truck is running well at 12*, I'd leave it alone. I'd wait until the engine is broken in and the curve the distributor to the engine (have a shop perform the work or DIY).
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If the engine is old enough, it will have a metal tag affixed to the front of the engine, usually at the thermotstat housing, that will give you the build date code and the model year and model code for which it was built. If the engine was built after 1973, it will have a decal on the passenger side valve cover at the very front of the cover which gives the information.
If the tag is missing or the decal is destroyed or illegible, there will be a cast date code on the driver's side of the block, right above the oil pan mounting flange.
This information--excluding the CAST date code--will tell you even what vehicle the engine was calibrated for originally. The cast date code, of course, just lets one know WHEN the block was cast. (The original tag or decal will tell you what engine plant built the motor; the block will have a cast letter(s) which tell you what foundry cast the engine--either Cleveland Foundry or Michigan Casting Center.)
I hope this will help you in trying to determine the originality of the engine for the truck.
If the tag is missing or the decal is destroyed or illegible, there will be a cast date code on the driver's side of the block, right above the oil pan mounting flange.
This information--excluding the CAST date code--will tell you even what vehicle the engine was calibrated for originally. The cast date code, of course, just lets one know WHEN the block was cast. (The original tag or decal will tell you what engine plant built the motor; the block will have a cast letter(s) which tell you what foundry cast the engine--either Cleveland Foundry or Michigan Casting Center.)
I hope this will help you in trying to determine the originality of the engine for the truck.
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