I'm 17 years old a junior in highschool, looking to go into the automotive field. I'm taking an auto 2 class next siemester. We will be rebuilding engines. I was wondering about how much it would cost to do a decent job building up a 302 for performance. I would most likely put this thing in my ranger for a senior project which is required to graduate.
things i would want to do to the engine include:
cam
port/polish
shorty headers
performance ignition
chip it (fuel injection)
possible stroke and bore (depending on how much this would cost(alot i'mguessing)
new water pump,
new oil pump
gaskets, etc...
am i crazy for wanting to do this. It wouldnt be just me working on this either, it would be another very trusted mechanically inclined friend also.

 

I wouldn't worry about stroking it, the ranger is a light vehicle so you could use rpm (higher stall and lower rear gearing with auto or more throttle with a manual tranny) vs low end grunt to motivate it just fine. IMO

If you have the money or resourcefulness to get it done, go for it. Wish I had a HS class that gave me credit for building a little hot rod.

The port work is something you can do, you might be suprised, there are mustang owners that get 250 hp out of their bone stock efi engines (except for the port work on the heads) with untouched speed density efi. I wouldn't focus on the chip or mass air right off the bat, you can use an adjustable fuel regulator to tweak the system.

the stock HO camshafts aren't too bad, you might be suprised. Since your on a budget I wouldn't be too concerned about the ignition upgrade either, sooner or later someone will wanna sell and msd or jacobs igniton at a fairly cheap price, besides the stock efi ignition isn't that bad for a slightly modified engine.

Use your favorite search engine and search for the following:

home made mass air conversion (if researched you can do it fairly inexpensively)

http://www.cmc.net/~xero/mousesporting.html (very good website on porting your stock heads)

www.enginekits.com (cheap strocker kits should you get ambitious)

 

Peter94,
The 302 is an EXCELLTENT motor for rebuilding for performance. I had some home ported heads with 1.94/1.6 valves and the Edelbrock Performer RPM package on one in my 67 mustang with 4:11 gears out back which went 12.60's at the track off the bottle.
For porting your stock heads, all you need to take out is the Thermactor bump on the exhaust side and do a minor port match. This can be done with a die grinder or a dremel. For the valves, take the heads to your local machine shop, and have them "bowl hog" them for the bigger valves and put in the hardened exhaust seats. I dont remember exactly, but I think it cost me around $150 to have that done. While mine were in, I had em machine them for screw in studs(required for the Performer RPM cam) and put in new guide seals.
I would go with flat top pistons. Forged if you plan on ever using more than 125 hp NOS system. If your only going to use the 125hp system from NOS(it's non-adjustable so no guesswork) then you can get away with hyperutectic pistons and cast rings. You can get a rebuild kit with almost everything you will need for the rebuild from PAW inexpensive enough.
As for stroking the motor, I wouldnt go with anything TOO cheap...Especially since this sounds like it will be raced. If you go with a cheap kit, it could end up costing you big in the end. (like around $1800 big!)
If you have the bucks, I would put in a 347 stroker kit from CHP and put on a Paxton supercharger. If you dont have the money for the Paxton, go with "blower in a bottle", nitrous. But do your research on nitrous first. If you understand it and how it works, you can use it very reliably for a long time. If you want some REALLY good ideas, look in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine.

 

Why would it cost him $1800 if he destroyed a cheap stroker kit? I would bet that the kits offered by powerhouse are simillar if not the same as PAW's.

Peter94

Something else you might consider...jegs and summit still offer the explorer shortblocks for $1200, roller tq cam and brand new block...thats a pretty good deal as far as ford goes. Good luck

 

by the way, i have a stock motor from a f150. so i'd probalby use that and the stock auto tranny, i know its an 80's truck, not completely sure what year. also, i allready have the diablo chip in my 4.0 so i'm probalby goign to get it reprogramed, that is, even if thats possible.

 

Peter94 -
I'm near your age and I'm rebuilding a 302 also, and I'll tell you what I'm doing. I had a 79 302 that is shot, so i bought a 66 289 block which im using my 302 crank and rods (a 302 is basically a stroked 289). Here's what I did with my engine:
bored .30 over, ported heads, 268H Comp Cam, (w/ springs, lifters, timing chain, retainers, locks), manley valves (stock diameter ), Sealed Power rocker arms (also ), Hypereutectic Speed pro pistons w/ 9:1 compression (w/ rest of kit from Summit), MSD 6AL ignition and pro billet distributor w/ Ford Racing 9mm plug wires, edlebrock performer RPM manifold, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, hooker competition headers, edelbrock 110 gph fuel pump. Cooling system is Milodon High-flow aluminum water pump, 180 degree thermostat, and a summit aluminum racing radiator (soon i will add electric fans). I also have a march under drive pulley system, which im not running a.c., only power steering is belt driven. Everything is new except the block, crank (grinded 20/20) rods, and rod caps, which im using ARP Pro-series wave-loc rod bolts.
This all cost me about $4500. It costs more than just buying a crate, but the performance is better. You can choose the specs you want, the brands you want, and you get to have fun building it. The only thing is that you have to do the research yourself. I had to match up all the cam specs with the heads and find out what works best with what. The price is also expensive because I had the best machine shop in town do mine. They balanced my engine very very well (Before installing pistons and rods onto crank, I could spin the crank with my pinky). The 302 is a good motor to rebuild, although it is more of a higher RPM engine. The horsepower is high end usually, but you can still great low end power due to the torque.

 

Why would it cost him $1800 if he destroyed a cheap stroker kit? I would bet that the kits offered by powerhouse are simillar if not the same as PAW's.

Well now, let me count the ways. If he destroyed the stroker kit, you usually end up scoring the block...oops...is that another $300 for a different block?? I think so! Even PAW or Powerhouse's kits are at least $800-$1000 the last time I checked. That isnt for a stroker short block either, thats just for the kit that you put together. Add that to the cost of gaskets and machining of a wasted block. Personally, time is money and thats a lot of time wasted if you use substandard equipment. 1/2 day for pulling and installing the motor, 3-4 days for machining depending on your machine shop. I mean, come on. Anyone can buy a stroker kit off Ebay for like $850. But thats not an assembled kit. Plus, what else is that engine going to take out and ruin when It lets loose? I suppose if it's not in a super high performance application, then it'll be fine. But hey man, this is a kids GRADE in shop class...Why take the chance?

Peter94, cost of items depends on where you shop, and how high performance you really want to go.

 

DRanchero


NO offense, but I might consider your approach as one not to repeat and a lesson learned. Unless your heads were professionally ported to flow like aftermaket heads I can't see the benefits of your $4500 combo. Two things came to mind reading your post, jegs roller 302 shortblock assembled brand new $1200, afr or equivalent heads $1200, cheaper edelbrock or aluminum gt-40 ($800-1000) would still be better , stock idle with impressive performance. I think a person could set the drivetrain up and install an intake and carb, slap an oil pan and pump/pickup, water pump on for the extra $2100. Kinda hard to beat new....with that said, your current combo should perform very well, its been done a few times.

53wa2fl

Its all theoretical, if you replied the paw cranks are different than the ones used by powerhouse, then I'd understand, otherwise, we are both guessing which would be the better quality. Everything breaks.

 

I understand completely. And it makes sense to buy it from Jegs or Summit. I know there may not be much of a difference in performance, but as he said he's learning. Now anyone can buy a shortblock and finish the block, but will you ever have the experience of building an engine internally yourself? I know its more expensive, but its worth it to learn. My sophomore year, I knew that a car needs oil and gas. 2 years later, I can talk to a mechanic at a shop and tell him exactly what i want done with the exact specs (its funny to see the look on their face when they ask what cam im using and i tell them the lift and cam duration at .050 instead of at the advertised duration) You get more experience when you have to see what matches up with what instead of buying and trusting what you have. I don't know many people that when they buy a short block or long block, they take out their cam and dial it in to make sure its what they got. I really wish i would have bought some better heads, but atleast i know exactly how the valvetrain works now. Not a lot of people my age know how it REALLY works and how to build up the heads. And one of the most important things you learn when building an engine, WHY FORD IS BETTER THAN CHEVY!! I did a powerpoint presentation last year PROVING a Ford engine is better than a Chevy engine. I used specs and graphs from the HOT ROD edition, and i translated it to English for the class ( ). Now Ford was only better by a few hp and torque was a little better, but hey, no one ever said chevy was better than ford after that!!
I've just been so interested in it that I've researched probably more than i should have, but i love cars, and I'll learn anything i can. I feel stupid that i know equations for engines and tires than rather learning equations in my calculus class . But the reason why i pay more is to learn it. If you have a budget, i'd go for building as much as you can. In the long run, it helps. It takes many people years and years to understand cars. But if you have the motive to learn, you'll be surprised by the results.
Here's the cost breakdown:
300 - Good Block
740 - top of the line machine work (bored, honed, dipped, pressure checked, crank grinded, pisons pressed, reconditioned rods, APR rod bolts pressed, balanced)
260 - Summit Rebuild Kit (Pistons, rings, oil pump, all the small stuff..)
So far thats $1300.
450 - Edelbrock Carb and intake
330 - Comp Cam Kit
300 - Head Work
330 - Rocker arms and valves
110 - stupid timing cover
180 - underdrive pulleys
80 - high volume water pump
180 - race radiator
540 - MSD ignition, distributor, coil and bracket, plug wires, plugs
150 - headers
110 - chrome alternator
300-400 - ARP Bolts, just about EVERY bolt for the engine, internal and external- VERY MUCH WORTH IT
150 - high torque starter
85 - fuel pump
90 - dampener
about $4000 so far
The rest is in good engine and engine bay paint, chrome brackets, waterneck, accessories, dipstick, black crinkle aluminum valve covers and air cleaner, hoses, braided stainless steel, and lots of other small priced parts. So as you see, its not all just for the engine. I probably should have mentioned that before!! Oh well! I am a very detailed person, so i spent money making the engine and bay look VERY nice! As far as the engine internally, if you do what i did, it will be around $1300 and i guarantee you'll learn more out of it than buying one. That's the reason why i did it that way. The only thing im lacking is consistent experience. I've built engines, restored interiors, replaced suspension, and am currently putting a 69 mustang front end on my 79 ranchero (much custom work, but you'd be surprised how close the fenders and width of vehicles are!) Im jealous that i havent worked on cars for 20-30 years like most of the people out there. Experience is the key, and that's why i say do it yourself. That's just my opinion. Good Luck

 

I would much rather do it myself. I probably only have about a 1500 dollar budget. I do have to say thanks for that great list of stuff. I really appreciate it. This thing will probalby be going in the ranger. A 5.0 will probalby be a great step up from the 4.0 to begin with. I'll probably do alot of that internal stuff in my auto 2 class. I just cant wait to be smoking some guy who "thinks" he has a hot car. A guy i know has a v-6 camaro, that he thinks is hot stuff (well until he got beat by a chevy malbu at a drag race).

 

DRanchero

Again no offense, but if a person wants to learn, in this case, he/she can take shop, or better yet, break the original engine down and take note of whats what, get on the internet and learn darn near any aspect of an engine, in detail. Then blow the actual budget on parts that count. I agree that if a person is on a tight budget it is almost mandatory that they get their hands dirty, its the only way a person can afford anything, but when you use the words budget..stock heads..$4500...that can get misleading.


peter94

I think your right, that 5.0 is gonna be a whole lot more aggressive than the 4.0. If I were you and this is only a suggestion, I'd get the truck set up and running with the 5.0 before I started to modify any part of the engine. Your gonna be suprised how quick that $1500 goes when you get started. I'd rebuild the tranny, go with a higher stall converter and put some lower gears in it, get it moving under its own power without any suprises popping up...then modify the snot out of the engine after your used to the truck and bored with the power. This is all given the enigne is in good shape as is. If possible do a compression test on each cylinder as well as get an actual oil psi reading, then at least you'll have an idea of the condition of the engine. Good luck...little trucks with big engines are fun.

 

With a $1500 budget, I would have to agree with JWTaylor. You should be able to get a decent 302/c-4 set-up for around $400. There is a kit in Jegs for putting a 302 into the ranger. I cant remember how much it is, but you can go to http://www.jegs.com and find out yourself if you want to. Once you get the 302/C-4 combo in and running, then go about modifying the snot out of it. I cant tell you how many timeas I have seen some kid build a rip roaring motor, put it into a nice car, then go and wrap it around a tree because they didnt know how to drive a car with a lot of power. The $1500 budget will pay for a nice used motor and the parts for the transfer, but not much more. Maybe put in a little higher than stock converter while you have the engine and trans out of the car. Dont forget the rearend though, the 5.0 will rip that stock ranger rear up in a New York minute. Most of all, have FUN with it! Your only young once!

JWTAYLOR,

Just so you know, this IS for his shop project, so this is COMPLETELY about LEARNING. But he has a teeny tiny budget.

 

Yeah, the ranger has the 8.8 rear end with 3.27 gears. The 8.8 should handle the power, but I dont know if i like the 3.27 gears. I think this is whats making my 4.0 seem so dang gutless. As luck would have it, the truck i'm getting it out of is my uncles, he said it runs good, just hook up a battery to it and it should fire right off. But still, i'm going to do some tests on it. I'm sure as long as i have it out, i'll put in a new water pump, spark plugs, air filter, wires, distributor, etc. I"m sure all that prevenative maintainence will take a big chunk out of 1500$ Then the stuff for putting it into the ranger will be even more. So until i get a real job, it kinda seems like the goodies will have to wait. Oh, and yeah, i'm pretty sensible when it comes to driving, i at least make sure there are no big trees/other cars around when i do things i shouldnt.

 

We're on the same page.


Thats what they all say...hahaha...again good luck with your project.

 

Well, its really the price of tires that keep the hot-rodding down (as my dad calls it). Paying 450$ for a set of tires is one of those thing i only want to do about every 50k.