I just checked out the FAQ's and did a search about this but what I wanted to know was'nt there so....here goes.

I have an 84 f-150 with the 300 and a carter 1 bbl on it. I bought it a number of months ago and it had a newer fuel pump on it..(Former truck owner is now decessed and I can't ask him how old the fuel pump is). My problem is, If I leave the truck parked for more than 8 hrs I need to crank the engine over a few times to get the fuel pumped into the carb. Then I tap the gas peddle once turn the key and she fires right up. I'm guessing my fuel pump check valve is fubar. Now is there a valve somewhere out in truckland I can just screw into the end of the fuel pump and on the fuel line or do I need a new fuel pump. That's it thanks for any replies.

 

I'm not familiar with your carb, but my 55 holley has a power valve that got stuck a few years back. It was allowing the fuel to drain into the cylinders. Have you rebuilt the carb lately? That may be all the problem you have. John

 

Pumps 'r' cheap (under $20) and easy to replace. I'm not getting something here: the fuel in the bowl won't all siphon out thru the needle and seat! And if the check valve in the pump was bad, it would take a bit less time for drainback than 8 hrs.! And the fuel pressure and volume would not be what it s'poto be. Something wrong with this picture. Maybe you have a clogged fuel filter, a blocked line somewhere, or the choke ain't set right. Or maybe the carb is dribbling fuel somewhere. Or the engine's running hot and it's boiling out of the bowl, which would still take less time than 8 hrs. You've checked when cold and no accelerator pump shot, I'm assuming?

Best thing you can do for this thing for starters is to scrap that awful feedback carb and ignition system, get rid of the troublesome TFI module, bolt on a YF (or 2-bbl on an adaptor plate), and drop in a Duraspark II single-vac. dizzy with blue-grommet module or GM HEI module conversion. You will need to do the ignition conversion when replacing the YFA with a YF, and then you can toss the computer, harness, and all. Yes, it will still pass emissions. I have a GM module in my '86 now, with the TFI e-core coil, and a DS II dizzy, no ballast resistor (and 4-bbl, header, 3" SI/DO exhaust, soon will be ported EFI head, Crane cam etc.), and there are zero starting and driveability issues whatsoever (except for the reason the Red Queen is coming to visit...).

I did the HEI module conversion last weekend and I have a wiring diagram I nabbed from a web search and color-coded, and instructions documenting my foray into this project. I can even make a wiring diagram for the TFI harness-to-Duraspark for y'all if needs be (did it when the header and 4-bbl went on, but the man-ule ain't gone anywhere since...). I ad-libbed it all in short order by having a manual handy when I did it, without documenting along the way, but it won't take me much time to throw something together, double-check, and outline the procedure...

 

There is no power valve. It's a metering rod on a spring, and a feedback solenoid, throttle sensor, MAP and O2 sensors etc. for part-throttle and cruise metering. Big unreliable mess that's way past its prime (literally it seems...). The good news is that it can all be tossed along with reliability issues, and it will still pass the sniffer test (provided the engine did before and didn't start blowing oil or coolant out the tailpipe in the interim).

 

I had my mechanic put in a new carb ( it came in a box from napa up here ) and a new inline fuel filter. The old carb was shot. The fuel pump is newly installed but I don't know when because the previous owner died and I can't ask him. WOW sorry 50_buck but with all the mods your suggesting that's wayy over my head as far as understanding and doing LOL. I plan on putting on a new intake with a 2 bbl next spring ( correction my mechanic will do that lol ). The choke seems to be working as I pop off the aircover and peek in very often. I'm thinkin of puttin a manual choke in. Accel pump is workin fine. I may be off in my times as well it could be a bit less than 12 hours when this happens as well. All I know is after a 12 hour shift I need to crank the engine a bit and then she fires up. As far as running temp goes my gauge points to the O in normal.But I know the gauge could be off. For right now I'll keep the stock Duraspark box and all. I only plan on drivin this baby for 3-4 years till I can save up for a newer one. Other than that this is one hell of a truck, even for being 20 years old.