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I made my 2200 mile journey home with my 67 F250. It was knocking the whole way but the noise never got worse. Seems to be from the passenger side of the engine. Any advice? She runs fine at 75 mph with the knocking but at slow speeds i have to very careful not to give too much gas or she will die. Does poor low rpm reponce give any clue? The carb is very dirty also so it could be that i suppose... BTW. starting cold the knock is louder and more of a slapping sound until warm. Lifter? One last clue. EVERY gasket on the engine is leaking! I put a quart of oil in the engine every 200 miles! No sign of buring anyone as far as smoke or smell. Thanks....
you could need to adjust the rockers and what kind of gas did you run run a high grade and see what happens or it could be detonation in which case adjust your timming and you should rebuild the carb
you could need to adjust the rockers and what kind of gas did you run run a high grade and see what happens or it could be detonation in which case adjust your timming and you should rebuild the carb
I tried different grades but mainly premium. I did use a fuel system cleaner on one tank and after that the truck back fired for a few miles and ran like crap. Then i used the choke a few times and it the problem went away and it ran a little better. Still knocked though. It sort of seems like an exhaust leak but would an exhaust leak sound different when the engine is cold? Where can i get a rebuild kit? Thanks
I guess an exhaust manifold gasket is in order... How about headers? What is your setup BB? I really think that my truck needs to exhale better... it has a single pipe out the side and the factory manifold. I am have trouble finding headers that will work on my camper special though.
One of your majort problems is the carb. Its time to rebuild it. Get a rebuild kit for it from autozone for $15 and some carb cleaner. Soak everything in the carb cleaner and do the whole thing. As far as the leaks go, its called the FE external oiling system every FE has it. It helps prevent rust and protect the paint. It may be time for a rebuild since you dont know what is going on in the enigine. At a minium pull it out and replace all the gaskets and throw some new bearings in.
One of your majort problems is the carb. Its time to rebuild it. Get a rebuild kit for it from autozone for $15 and some carb cleaner. Soak everything in the carb cleaner and do the whole thing. As far as the leaks go, its called the FE external oiling system every FE has it. It helps prevent rust and protect the paint. It may be time for a rebuild since you dont know what is going on in the enigine. At a minium pull it out and replace all the gaskets and throw some new bearings in.
External oiler is RIGHT! Thanks for the tip. What bearings are you talking about? Well, I definatlly will do the carb and replace all the gaskets. Do you know anyone that sells a complete gasket kit?
I was reffering to the main bearings and the rod bearings. I figured while you have the engine out replace the bearings. But if you have it out really the best thing to do is do a complete rebuild, top to bottom. You can have your locoal machine shop do it for you if you dont want to attempt it. However, with no mechanical knowledge I rebuilt my 352 with a chiltions manaul and its working good. So you can do it by yourself even if you dont know a thing about motors, dont be intimated by it a engine it is a very simple mechainel device.
It is the cost that is intimdating right now. I need to rebuild the trans first (fmx i guess) At some point i will need to rubuild it so i figure why not get the most miles out of it first. Only 100k right on it now. For an FE that is nothing imo. If it runs good after the manifold gasket and carb are done then i will wait... Hey fe352, where did you get your parts and what did the rebuild cost you?
I guess an exhaust manifold gasket is in order... How about headers? What is your setup BB? I really think that my truck needs to exhale better... it has a single pipe out the side and the factory manifold. I am have trouble finding headers that will work on my camper special though.
Well, personally I'm getting too old to put up with headers on my daily driven pickup. I have and have had them on most of my other vehicles though. The pickup runs the stock logs thru duals that both exit on the passenger side (see my gallery). I don't have any leaks, no added heat to cook the starter or my feet and it's nice and quiet.
Here's an observation made quite a while ago in my teens. While at the drags, the big racers always had pit cars that were totally stock even down to the wheel covers. I used to think this was strange until talking to some of them. The rationale was that in racing you are already on the ragged edge, why modify your driver with anything that could compromise things.
I feel the same way about my truck, headers are too much of a compromise for what I do with it. In other words the minuses outweigh the plusses.
I feel the same way about my truck, headers are too much of a compromise for what I do with it. In other words the minuses outweigh the plusses.
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compromise? I alway thought that headers gave better all around performance. Better hp and mpg. What is the down side of headers? I am want what is best for my mpg and longevity of my truck.
It is the cost that is intimdating right now. I need to rebuild the trans first (fmx i guess) At some point i will need to rubuild it so i figure why not get the most miles out of it first. Only 100k right on it now. For an FE that is nothing imo. If it runs good after the manifold gasket and carb are done then i will wait... Hey fe352, where did you get your parts and what did the rebuild cost you?
I got most from my locoal machine shop, they get em wholesale and have the best prices. I got a few things from summit though. Whatever you do dont buy from autozone there prices are way worse then summit. Call all the places in town for prices and I think youll find the machine shop to be the best. If you do a stock rebuild it will be fareley cheap. How much power do you want and what are you going to use it for? A cheap and easy thing to do is just swap a 4bbl carb and maniflod and some headers, it helps waken it up a bit.
Yeah, if i do rebuild i will go pretty much standard unless i need a bore out. I might just rebuild the top half if the compression comes out good and the ticking is just the exhaust manifold gasket. I am in the process of rebuilding the stock carb for now kit was $17 so... What replacement carbs do you like? Some guys talk about that $50 intake manifold but i dont know what carb works with it.
Hey 352, i read once that you said that the autolite carbs stinks. Thats what i need to rebuild... Should i replace it instead? With what? Anything out there that will hook up without any linkage problems etc?
the place to get the $50 intake is www.dscmotorsports.com . it is a 4 barrel manifold made for 4bbl carbs. When I said that the autolite was bad I meant for pefromacne it was bad, it doseant flow a lot of air like the holleys. Again, were getting into a mild build here. If you want a stock rebuild I would just keep the autolite and go with a stock rebuild. It is the cheapest way to go and it wont dig into your wallet to bad. Then, if you want some more peformacne down the road, just put the stuff on while its in the truck, theres no reason to go high pefroamcne now unless you really want it. The autolite is very depndable and relaible, thats all you need. These engines put out plenty stock.
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