Converting from R12 to 134
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From: Muscle Shoals US
Converting from R12 to 134
Getting ready to convert my '90 B II over to R134 and have a couple questions. This truck sat for a year before I bought it (year or so ago) and the AC was dead then and former owner said it worked when he parked it.
Compressor seems to be working and have checked the system and it is totally empty of the old R12. (not even a hiss when depressing the service valve)
Do I need to have a vacuum pulled before the change over or is that just to check for leaks?
Since it's been dead for SO long do I need to replace the drier/accumulater?
Anyone tried the "leak sealer/Oring conditioner" kits for 134 with any luck just in case there is a leak ... or would this be a good thing to do BEFORE re-charging the system after the change over?
Thanks!
Compressor seems to be working and have checked the system and it is totally empty of the old R12. (not even a hiss when depressing the service valve)
Do I need to have a vacuum pulled before the change over or is that just to check for leaks?
Since it's been dead for SO long do I need to replace the drier/accumulater?
Anyone tried the "leak sealer/Oring conditioner" kits for 134 with any luck just in case there is a leak ... or would this be a good thing to do BEFORE re-charging the system after the change over?
Thanks!
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Norman USA
Converting from R12 to 134
First of all, I would NOT reccommend the changeover. I guess you are considering the fact that 134a is dirt cheap, and R-12 is not. Well, 134a is not NEARLY as efficient as R-12. You're not gonna get nearly the cold air your could have with R12. However, if you want to do it anyway:
You NEED to suck down the system even though it is empty. This is because moisture can get in the system, which will turn to ice if the system has not been sucked down really well. So yes, suck it down man...
As for the drier/accumilator:
It's always something that is going to be easy to replace if the system is not working up to par. I say charge it up and see if it's working fine. If so, don't change it.
The O-Ring seal/conditioner did not work for me, but I had a leak at the body of my compressor (which it CLAIMS to seal.)
Anyway, good luck.
Mark
You NEED to suck down the system even though it is empty. This is because moisture can get in the system, which will turn to ice if the system has not been sucked down really well. So yes, suck it down man...
As for the drier/accumilator:
It's always something that is going to be easy to replace if the system is not working up to par. I say charge it up and see if it's working fine. If so, don't change it.
The O-Ring seal/conditioner did not work for me, but I had a leak at the body of my compressor (which it CLAIMS to seal.)
Anyway, good luck.
Mark
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From: Muscle Shoals US
Converting from R12 to 134
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Jun-02 AT 12:52 PM (EST)]Mark,
Thanks for the info. See now the need to go ahead and pull the vacuum. Will let the drier ride unless I need to change it out.
Don't have the gear to suck it down but hopefully can get a shop to do it without charging an arm and a leg.
Changed over my wife's '92 Sunbird last summer and shop wanted $400 for the changeover!! (this did NOT include the kit which is like $30 and includes the coolant) Friend of mine did have the gear and he did it for $50 (pulled a vacuum and we changed the drier). So with kit and EVERYTHING was under $100. He has since moved away ...
I realize the R134 is not as cold ... but we only notice it when she's sitting idle. Once the car is moving it'll freeze you out and the stuff is SO much less $ than the R12.
Thanks for the info. See now the need to go ahead and pull the vacuum. Will let the drier ride unless I need to change it out.
Don't have the gear to suck it down but hopefully can get a shop to do it without charging an arm and a leg.
Changed over my wife's '92 Sunbird last summer and shop wanted $400 for the changeover!! (this did NOT include the kit which is like $30 and includes the coolant) Friend of mine did have the gear and he did it for $50 (pulled a vacuum and we changed the drier). So with kit and EVERYTHING was under $100. He has since moved away ...
I realize the R134 is not as cold ... but we only notice it when she's sitting idle. Once the car is moving it'll freeze you out and the stuff is SO much less $ than the R12.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Norman USA
Converting from R12 to 134
I rigged up a little system to suck down the A/c system using an old compressor and a motor. It's a really cheap setup and won't cost but $30 or $40 to build. If you're interested, I'll draw up the plans and E-Mail them to you. it work\s great, but I wouldn't go to the trouble unless you are thinking about doing several systems. Otherwise, a shop should suck it down for about $20 at most.
Mark
Mark
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From: Muscle Shoals US
Converting from R12 to 134
Mark,
Thanks for the offer but I'm hoping this is my LAST conversion! I know just about enough about auto AC to blow my dentures into my neighbor's pool!!!
Jim
Thanks for the offer but I'm hoping this is my LAST conversion! I know just about enough about auto AC to blow my dentures into my neighbor's pool!!!
Jim
