Vehicle: 1988 Ford Bronco II XLT 2.9L (EFL)

OK first of all I just fixed a problem that I had with the negitive ground (cleaned the terminal and wires going into the connector so I could get a good ground and start the engine). But now there is another problem: The engine tries to idle at 850 rpm (what is should) but dies down...and then recovers and repeats this. There is a major loss of power and when you know you should be in third gear, you have to have it in 2nd just to keep the engine running. The vacum tube coming from the air cleaner going to the uhh intake/throttle area (dont'know if this sounds right) was cut by the alternator. So I fixed the tube and it made the problem WORSE !
When you disconnect the cable from the engine side the rpms rise and of course makes the engine run a little smoother, but at 1000 rpms (not correct idle speed). I disconnected electrical to the EGR pressure regulator and nothing changes, does this mean that it is my problem? OR what is my problem? I really want to keep my bronco II here!!!

 

SOUNDS ALMOST THE SAME AS THE 85 BRONCO 2 I HAD AND I THINK THE PROBLEM WITH THAT WAS EGR RELATED AS WELL. MINE WOULD IDLE FOR A BIT THEN DIE AND IF RESTARTED WOULD DO PRETTY MUCH THE SAME. IM NO MECHANIC BUT ID BE WILLING TO BET YOUR PROBLEM IS EGR RELATED. GOOD LUCK

 

Thank you for reassuring me.....going to Ford on Monday to get the EGRPV ;-)

 

Before you go and buy anything you should get the fault codes.... It could very well be your O2 sensor, your catalytic converter, your TSP, etc... You said when you disconnect the cable from the engine side the rpm rises and of course makes the engine run a little smoother? What cable???? the positive cable to the battery???

The only reason I would jump and buy the EGR system is if you have deep enough pockets to buy, buy, buy until you find the real problem... If you want to jump and buy something, there are a few things that come in handy....

A repair manual, Haynes/Chiltons... I use both, when I can't find what I need in one it is usually in the other...

A Ford diagnostic code reader... These usually come with the book that will tell you how to use it and the definitions for the codes...

And that funny L-wrench for getting to the distributor lock down bolt, man does it make it easier... If you ever have to change your electronic control module ask for the speciality tool, it's only like ten dollars and is the perfect tool for the job...

The L-wrench is the only one I don't have, I lent mine out... Against everything I was taught about my tools and paid the price by never getting it back....

If you want to do quick diagnostic code test, you probably have everything you need... Just go to this site, it shows you everything you need to know to read and understand the Ford fault codes,

http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

Good luck & have fun...
Its all part of the game...

 

If you replace the EGR valve yourself check the passageway that directs the exhaust gas back into your intake manifold. If it has very many miles on it at all it will be clogged up. You can tell by sticking some safety wire through the hole and looking for it to come out not far past your throttle body butterfly valve. You will have to remove the rubber intake hose to see this. Also a flashlight will work as well. You should see some light if you stick the light up to hole where your egr bolts to the engine. I would go ahead and replace the EGR valve if you got over 75,000 miles on it and clean out that passage. Don't be surprised if this doesn't cure your problem but it will certainly eliminate the EGR and let your engine breath and run cleaner. Your problem could be alot of things (mainly electronic sensors)so checking engine codes is the best place to start.

 

I replaced what I thought was part of the EGR system but wasn't. Ford called it something different than what was in the books...Air Bypass valve assembly. I desperately need a picture of the EGR system, I only have a chiltons manual, I think I should probably go ahead and buy that haynes manual. I think there are some places where I can check the TPS and see if it is functioning properly, i would like to eliminate that from my possible causes. I checked the codes by using the link I was given..(thanks ), but I'm affraid I didn't gain much knowledge from doing this...I was given the code of 67, which if you look up...has something to do with the automatics? I have a manual...anymore tips...please dont' hesitate
Jeremy

 

This is the same problem I am having with my 86. I get error codes 31, 67, 89...

I have replaced the EGR valve, and the solenoid.. I don't have a position sensor on mine, but think that there must be a Pressure sensor. the 31 code keeps coming up.. Is there a chance that the code is just stuck in the memory?? Can I clear this code??

 

>Vehicle: 1988 Ford Bronco II XLT 2.9L (EFL)
>
>OK first of all I just fixed a problem that I had with the
>negitive ground (cleaned the terminal and wires going into
>the connector so I could get a good ground and start the
>engine). But now there is another problem: The engine
>tries to idle at 850 rpm (what is should) but dies
>down...and then recovers and repeats this. There is a major
>loss of power and when you know you should be in third gear,
>you have to have it in 2nd just to keep the engine running.
>The vacum tube coming from the air cleaner going to the uhh
>intake/throttle area (dont'know if this sounds right) was
>cut by the alternator. So I fixed the tube and it made the
>problem WORSE !
>When you disconnect the cable from the engine side the rpms
>rise and of course makes the engine run a little smoother,
>but at 1000 rpms (not correct idle speed). I disconnected
>electrical to the EGR pressure regulator and nothing
>changes, does this mean that it is my problem? OR what is
>my problem? I really want to keep my bronco II here!!!

fourn4

 

fourn4: People will tell you it is the fast idle control (part),
but beware of the oil pressure switch that tells the gas relay when and how many times per minute to send gas....look under the vehicle...see if the oil pressure switch is dangling by a hair...

 

>Before you go and buy anything you should get the fault
>codes.... It could very well be your O2 sensor, your
>catalytic converter, your TSP, etc... You said when you
>disconnect the cable from the engine side the rpm rises and
>of course makes the engine run a little smoother? What
>cable???? the positive cable to the battery???
>
>The only reason I would jump and buy the EGR system is if
>you have deep enough pockets to buy, buy, buy until you find
>the real problem... If you want to jump and buy something,
>there are a few things that come in handy....
>
>A repair manual, Haynes/Chiltons... I use both, when I can't
>find what I need in one it is usually in the other...
>
>A Ford diagnostic code reader... These usually come with
>the book that will tell you how to use it and the
>definitions for the codes...
>
>And that funny L-wrench for getting to the distributor lock
>down bolt, man does it make it easier... If you ever have to
>change your electronic control module ask for the speciality
>tool, it's only like ten dollars and is the perfect tool for
>the job...
>
>The L-wrench is the only one I don't have, I lent mine
>out... Against everything I was taught about my tools and
>paid the price by never getting it back....
>
>If you want to do quick diagnostic code test, you probably
>have everything you need... Just go to this site, it shows
>you everything you need to know to read and understand the
>Ford fault codes,
>
>http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
>
>Good luck & have fun...
>Its all part of the game...
>

In an attempt to rid my recently acquired (from NY to Denver, it made it without having to be towed, 156K) '86 Bronco II of idling problems, smelly exhaust, etc., I bought an ERG valve from Checker Auto for under $30. Ford wanted $90. It went on real easily, & I have not noticed any code problems, but I am not sure how to check. The hole that it bolts to was partially clogged, & I carefully scraped it out, & vacuumed it out also. It helped some, but not enough. The muffler shop said to check the catalytic converters, yes, there are 2!, & that quote approached close to $500. Also, the transmission shifts a lot, & after reading much on this vehicle, there are a multitude of possible, wallet-emptying proceedures to help restore the engine/drive train to some regularity. I have too much $ into it to scrap it, but where does it end? Maybe a rebuilt engine/transmission may be less brain/wallet damage in the long run, but you would still have an '86 Bronco after all was said & done. Yes, I did an engine flush, tune up, fuel injection clean out, plug wires, O2 sensor, muffler, tailpipe, not to mention brakes, master cylinder, shocks, battery, etc., & the AC still needs work, it was converted to R134, & has pressure, but the clutch on the compressor slips, Ford wants several $100 for a new one. After an initial $960, the cost rose to over $3000, including parking tickets in NYC, (#1 son/driver) + gas to get it to Colorado, tow for a dead battery in NY, & Colo. emissions, 3rd time was a charm, after O2 sensor. Maybe an engine/drive train analysis from a company that only does analysis might cut the guesswork? Maybe stamp collecting would be more rewarding & less expensive...